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Fishing Technology | Introduction to Finding Bass with Sonar, Imaging

  
  
  
  
  
  
lowrance hds gen2 screenshot




Understanding Sonar, Side and Down Scan will improve your fishing


By Jason Sealock

Technology changes yearly, monthly, weekly, daily it seems in today's society. The changes range from making dinner a little easier to treating cancer with advanced scanning and dissecting technologies. Technology in fishing seems to be a hot button topic. Absolutely you can catch bass without a single piece of electronics technology in your fishing boat. But put yourself on a 100,000 acre reservoir and breaking down a new body of water can feel more like finding a needle in a stack of needles.

Those of us that grew up using flashers have forced ourselves to interpret what a ring of pulsing light means in terms of fish, cover and forage around us. Then as paper charters came into popularity, it was cool to be able to draw contours on to a roll of scrolling paper. Next entered the liquid crystal displays and we again had to learn that a fish was a shallow tapering arch or saucer on the screen. Moving active fish under a stationary boat were spaghetti lines on the screen.

Now we truly live in the golden age of depth finding technologies. We have available to us side imaging and down imaging technologies, HD sonar that can actually look into cover and see fish. Yet with all this technology available to us, the most requested topic I get from anglers involves interpreting what they see on their sonar, or Down Scan or Side Scan imaging.

We're going to work on sharing some cool screen shots and then walking through what's there. No it's not going to be a bunch of underwater things that never hold fish. It's going to usually be fish, forage and the cover the fish are relating to during different seasons. The goal will be to provide anglers with the knowledge to be confident when they scan over something that they are seeing what they think they are.



This is the first screen from my Lowrance HDS 8 Gen2 Unit. Now folks will look at this and say they see the bass. It's a little easier to say that when someone shows you a screen knowing they are going to show you fish. But when you encounter this on the lake you're looking for the position of the fish on the screen as well the marks and arches .

Let's start however with orientation on the three screens. It's important to note where your boat is on each of the three screens technologies. We've place a red triangle in each pane. That is the current location of your boat on each screen. Always.

The left pane is side imaging. The boat is orientated at the top middle. Now anglers often mistakenly think when they set their side scan area to 40 feet they are scanning out 40 feet to either side. No not really. You'll notice our depth is around 23 feet. On the ranges on either side the bottom starts being drawn at 23 feet. What you are seeing is directly below the boat on the left and on the right. Then from there it starts scanning out. So really it is scanning out to the "side" roughly 17 feet. The depth alters how far "out to the side" it images. Because it has to look down and then out.

The other thing folks don't realize is by setting your side scan to a large range, say 100 feet, you're looking for cover or structure because the bass will be too small, mere specs of sand on the screen.  I like to set my range outward about 30-50 feet depending on how deep I'm fishing or looking for schools of bass because I am often looking for the actual fish. Unless I'm looking through open expanses of water searching for isolated pieces of large cover.

In this screen, we see a school of bass hunkered down around the bottom in 23 feet of water on all three screens. I placed 3 circles on the exact same group of fish in each window. Again it's about perspective.

On the right side I have it split showing down scan and sonar together. One thing to note, and why I often switch to the three screen mode when I'm searching, the side scan screen shows me roughly 28 catchable bass. The sonar shows me about half that. What you often get with side imaging and down imaging is better separation and less masking. Sonar looks downward in a conical spectrum while side imaging and down imaging to a degree look down and outward more as a sheet fed scan, so the way they interpret will be vastly different.

Then as I stop to fish, I often go to straight sonar or sonar and GPS split screen. That's because Structure Scan needs the boat moving to paint an accurate picture. On the Lowrance units, it actually matches the speed of the scan to the speed of the boat. If you go to slow you get elongated distortion. So I often scan at roughly 4-6 mph.

When I'm not moving, sonar will just constantly echo returns and what you see is a continuous line as it re-pings the same object over and over but the screen is scrolling so the result is a line moving up and down or multiple lines moving up and down instead of a single dot as you pass over quickly with side scan.

Now back to the orientation aspect. Yes I've caught a lot of bass suspending, but I've caught way more bass that are relating to the bottom or some form of cover. In this picture it's also good to note the bottom hardness. The Down Scan illustrates a hard bottom.

As you pass from a soft bottom to a hard bottom on side and down scans, the bottom will get much brighter (i.e. a stronger return). Bass in deep water like hard bottoms.  When you mark fish positioned on a hard bottom in deep water and they are orientated horizontally along the hard bottom, they are often bass. I don't like to see short clumps of fish stacked up tall on the screen. Typically that is what white bass, yellow bass, crappie, even species like drum do.

Bass when they are actively corralling bait fish on the bottom will position more horizontally along the bottom over a long space, rather than straight up and down in a small space.

Now size can tip you off to what is on the screen too. IF those arches were larger and appeared almost "hairy" on the screen, they are generally rough fish. For some reason, the denser the fish (or harder the scales like on rough fish) the return almost looks like an arch or spot with hair draping off it. Also notice how much a foot would be if the dark space on the side scan screen on the left has 23 feet in it on either side of center. So I've come to realize when I see fish of this size at this 40 foot scale in 20 feet of water, I know they are bass.

Perspective is everything when looking at electronics. If the fish seem too large on a small scale, they probably aren't what you're looking for. If they are stacked up tall, again they may not be what you are looking for. But when you see them orientated along the bottom, you're going to figure out a lot quicker what's going on down there under and out to the side of your boat.

We'll work more on sonar, some of the settings to help you get the most out of your units in our next installment of Fishing Technology and feel free to send us suggestions on what you want to see.

If you liked this, you'll probably like these two articles on finding and catching suspending fish with sonar and imaging:

Bridging the Gap on Suspended Bass Part One

Fishing Suspended Bass Around Cover Part Two

And this video:

How to Read Your Electronics






























































How to Find Fish on Power Generation Fisheries

  
  
  
  
  
  
Yelas big bass on fluctuating fisheries

Power generation lakes are notorious for tricky fishing, but a few key tips can maximize your success

By Walker Smith

Often times, we tend to view our local fisheries as just that—fisheries. Aside from the recreational activities our lakes provide, we fail to realize that many communities rely on their local lakes for power. These power generation lakes present anglers with several challenges—from fluctuating water levels to confusing generation schedules—that can be difficult to figure out. Once the puzzle is solved, however, these fisheries can provide some outstanding fishing for both novice and veteran anglers.

Chevy pro Jay Yelas has had great success on power generation lakes throughout his career, including a 2002 Bassmaster Classic win on Lay Lake. Yelas recently shared some great tips for fishing fluctuating water levels that are sure to increase your success on these fisheries.

       Photo courtesy of B.A.S.S.

Generation schedules
I live on Georgia’s Lake Sinclair, which was built to be a power generation lake. There have been many instances when I’ve been waiting for blast-off the morning of a tournament and noticed all of my favorite shallow structure sitting high-and-dry. To combat frustrating situations like this, Yelas urges the importance of learning the lake’s generation schedules before you hit the water.

“The majority of dams have online generation schedules or provide a phone number you can call that will give you generation forecasts,” Yelas said. “It is imperative that you always know what the water levels are going to do in order to plan your fishing day around it. While the forecasts aren’t always accurate, it is still helpful to get an idea of the day’s water movement.”

Because some power generation lakes don’t have easily accessible generation forecasts, Yelas has developed a general rule-of-thumb. Throughout his career he has noticed that most of these lakes begin generating water in the afternoon, due to the increased electricity usage of nearby residents during the course of the day. It is also important, however, to pay close attention to recent weather patterns in order to have an accurate idea of the generation schedule.

“I always keep an eye on recent precipitation amounts, especially when I’m fishing a power generation lake,” Yelas said. “Following periods of heavy rain, a lot of dams will run wide-open all day long to prevent flooding. Conversely, during draught conditions the water may not move very much at all during the day.”

Regardless of the generation forecasts, Yelas stresses the importance of remaining flexible throughout the day. Since generation schedules are simply an approximation, there is always a chance that the dam will deviate from its timetable.

“There have been numerous times that I’ve been caught waiting for the water to move, and it didn’t move an inch,” Yelas said. “Those situations aren’t fun, so now I make sure that I have alternate game plans. Although my pattern in the 2002 Classic relied heavily on water movement, not having a backup plan can be a pretty big risk.”


Fish positioning
When fishing fluctuating water levels, Yelas believes that the biggest key to success is understanding the connection between water movement and fish positioning. 

“Shallow fish move with the water, so when the dam pumps water into the lake, the fish get into a lot of very shallow cover,” Yelas said. “The same isn’t true for deeper fish, however. If a bass is sitting on a ledge, it’s not going to abandon that ledge when the water rises a few inches. They will, however, turn on and start feeding aggressively when that water starts to move.”

As the water movement stops and the water level begins to recede, Yelas has noticed that the shallow fish will move off of the bank and become difficult to catch. For this reason, he prefers targeting deep fish in low-water situations.

“I wish I knew where the shallow fish always go when the water drops, but nobody really knows,” Yelas said. “I do know, however, that they are pretty tough to catch. A lot of times they will suspend on break lines, and suspended fish are some of the hardest to catch. Deep fish are a better bet in low water because they remained positioned on channel ledges and points. You may have to slow it down with soft plastics, but they’re still there.”

Where to find them
In high-water situations, Yelas doesn’t spend much time targeting deep fish. Instead, he will fish his favorite high-water cover— shoreline grass. When the tips of the grass are barely out of the water, that’s when he knows that things are right.

“You can definitely catch some big ones flipping and frogging shallow grass with about 1- to 2-feet of water in it,” Yelas said. “But if there’s less than 8-inches of water in the grass and I can see the stalks swaying in the wind, there’s generally not any fish in it. You may be able to catch some smaller ones, but nothing tournament-caliber. You have to remember, 12-inches of water is an enormous difference when you’re talking about shallow, shoreline grass.”

Shoreline grass isn’t the only cover that Yelas likes to target in high-water conditions. Rising water levels can push bass into all types of shallow cover, such as boat docks, seawalls and laydowns, where Yelas loves to flip a Berkley Gripper Jay’s Flipping Jig for unsuspecting big bass.

When the water drops on power generation lakes, shallow bass move towards deeper water. As the fish largely vacate shallow cover during low-water conditions, it becomes harder to pinpoint their location. Yelas has learned, however, that the bass don’t move far.

“When the water’s low, I’ve seen a bunch of bass just cruising in front of the cover—about 10- to 20-feet in front of it,” Yelas said. “You can still catch these fish, but it takes time to figure out the right technique. I will still pitch my bait to the edge of the shallow cover, but I make sure to work it all the way back to the boat, because that’s where I’ll get most of my bites.”

In these situations, Yelas looks for places that have great shoreline cover accompanied by isolated pieces of cover in front of it, such as big stumps. When the water is sucked out of the lake, the bass will position on the isolated cover, providing an opportunity to make pinpoint casts to likely big bass hiding spots.
    
“It’s important to have a good pair of sunglasses when you’re dealing with low water levels,” Yelas said. “My Typhoons let me locate isolated cover before I get too close—if the fish see you first, you won’t catch them. When I find good-looking cover, I’ll fire a Berkley Frenzy Rattl’r or a big buzzbait towards it and get some really big bites.”


The right mindset
While power generation lakes can be difficult to fish, attitude is everything. Yelas believes that patience and a good mindset can lead to some really great days on these fisheries.

“Every fish doesn’t do the same thing,” Yelas said. “There’s always some fish that don’t follow the crowd—kind of like people in that regard. When the water is down, don’t be afraid to try different things, whether it’s the outside edge of shallow cover, adjacent hard cover or nearby ledges. There’s no science to it, so just have a good time with it.”

Open-mindedness is an invaluable trait for an angler who frequents power generation lakes. The bass aren’t always going to be where you think they are, so trying different techniques can pay huge dividends. If you caught them using a certain bait in the morning, don’t be easily frustrated when they don’t eat the same thing in the afternoon.

“No matter what, you’ve always got to have an open mind,” Yelas said. “One of the biggest mistakes people make is running all over the lake to history spots when the fishing gets tough. If you know the fish are there, stay put and try some different stuff. They didn’t just pack up and leave.”

Yelas believes that nothing can compensate for time on the water. Spending a lot of time on the trolling motor is a great way to find those key areas where shallow fish relocate towards during low-water conditions.

“Pros fish a lot of lakes where we don’t have many honey holes,” Yelas said. “I’ve had to learn to catch all of the fish in my specific area, and running all around the lake isn’t always helpful. If you hunker down, read the conditions and figure out where the fish go during the water fluctuations, you will figure it out rather quickly.”

If you have the chance to fish a power generation lake this year, I strongly suggest it. Learning to fish in fluctuating water conditions is an outstanding way to improve your angling skills. With some basic knowledge of how bass respond to water generation and a good attitude, you can really put a hurting on some bass this year.







































































Five for 5 | Five Fall Fishing Lures for Under $6 a Piece

  
  
  
  
  
  
budget bass fishing lures for fall fishing

by Walker Smith

Throughout my time as a collegiate angler, I quickly learned that penny-pinching was an invaluable trait. Between full-time classes and frequent traveling on the tournament trail, there wasn’t much time to have a “real” job. Either I caught fish or I didn’t make any money. In no position to buy 20 dollar baits at the time, I was forced to “make due” with a skinny wallet. Regardless of what you may think, spending hundreds of dollars isn’t always necessary to catch big bass.

I recently took a trip to the friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart to see if I could pick up five quality fall bass fishing baits – each for less than $6. Before taxes, my total came to exactly $25. Whether you’re a pond fisherman or a weekend angler, these reasonably priced baits will catch plenty of bass this fall.


Strike King Red Eye Shad - $5.96
One of the most versatile, proven lipless baits on the market today, the Strike King Red Eye Shad proves extremely effective throughout the fall season. As the shad make their annual migration towards shallow water, big bass follow. The Red Eye Shad exhibits incredible action in the water, while its free-floating rattles create an enticing sound that triggers bass into feeding. Equipped with premium VMC vanadium cone-cut treble hooks right out of the package, this lure doesn’t require any modifications in order to catch a bunch of fish.

The 1/2-ounce Red Eye Shad casts like a rocket, giving both bank fishermen and tournament anglers access to hard-to-reach shallow flats. Following a long cast, start off with an erratic retrieve, incorporating frequent jerks of the rod tip. Don’t be afraid to let the bait free-fall, either—the Red Eye Shad has a unique fluttering action as it falls. Burn it through shallow water for explosive reaction strikes.


War Eagle Finesse Spinnerbait - $5.96
Designed by Elite Series pro Mike McClelland, the 5/16-ounce War Eagle Finesse Spinnerbait is the real deal. I have personally caught some bona fide pigs on this bait, and I always have one nearby when I’m on the water. The War Eagle Finesse Spinnerbait comes equipped with a dual-length Bass Eagle pro series skirt and a mean Mustad Ultra Power Point hook; so once again, it’s ready for the water straight out of the package. As with any blade bait, however, I strongly suggest using a trailer hook—I’ve had my heart broken too many times when not using one.

When it's cloudy and windy, a spinnerbait draws a lot more bites. When the bite is extra-tough, I’ll slide a small, plastic trailer up the shank of the hook for added action. I love to slow-roll the War Eagle Finesse Spinnerbait just beneath the surface while targeting wood structure and grass lines around flats. The bass crush this fall staple.


Rapala Crankin’ Rap-5 - $5.96
The Rapala Crankin’ Rap-5 is an all-purpose squarebill with serious durability. Bang it on stumps, rocks and everything in between—it can handle it. The realistic, etched scale patterns on the body of the bait make the Crankin’ Rap great for both clear and stained water applications. The distinctive rattling sound attracts bass in all situations, making it a great choice for highly-pressured public fisheries. Bank fisherman will love this bait, as it avoids hang-ups well and only dives 5-feet deep.

The Crankin’ Rap is awesome around cover. Make long casts to efficiently cover water while momentarily pausing the lure when it hits a piece of cover to entice reaction strikes. An erratic retrieve is often most effective, but be sure to experiment with different retrieval rates for optimal success.


Strike King Buzz King or Bleeding Elite Buzzbait - $3.76
The fall season is buzzbait season, and with fish feeding aggressively on migrating shad, the big profile of the Strike King Buzz King can produce some heart-stopping blowups. The Diamond Dust head and silicone skirt hold up well after multiple fish catches, while the big three blade prop makes a ton of commotion in the water. The big prop also makes it easier to fish the Buzz King with a slow retrieve, allowing more fish to get a solid look at your bait.

The Strike King Buzz King works best around cover, so feel free to get up close and personal. I like to make long casts and burn it back to the boat initially, picking off the most aggressive fish. Before you move to a different area, always make a few casts with an ultra-slow retrieve, with the prop of the bait barely making a disturbance—sometimes it takes a little extra coaxing to make the big girls bite.


Zoom Salty Super Fluke - $3.36 per 10-pack
The Zoom Salty Super Fluke is the “ole faithful” of bass fishing lures. I don’t have enough fingers or toes to count the number of big bass I have caught on this bait. When fishing in tough, clear water conditions, not much will out-fish a Super Fluke as it’s a perfect imitation of an injured or fleeing baitfish. When rigged weightless on a 2/0 EWG worm hook, the Super Fluke hits the water quietly while swooping and darting through the water with ease. A breeze to skip under docks and around any type of cover, the Zoom Salty Super Fluke is a timeless fish catcher.

The Zoom Salty Super Fluke can be fished in almost any location, under any conditions. Make long, skipping casts to imitate a fleeing baitfish, followed by short, quick snaps of the rod tip. For the most lifelike action, I recommend using a high quality, 8-pound test monofilament line such as Sunline Super Natural Monofilament.  Keep a close eye on your fluke throughout your retrieve, as most of your bites will occur on a slack line. It’s a exciting sight to see a fat bass boil on top of your fluke.  

Catching big bass doesn’t always have to cost big bucks. While some high-end lures are definitely worth the money, they’re not always necessary for a fun weekend on the water. For less than $30, your local tackle provider can arm you with a few essentials – inexpensive baits can produce some lifelong memories. Fun while fishing doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg.









































All Day Topwater Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
Topwater bass fishing all day

Topwater fishing isn’t just for lowlight conditions

By Walker Smith

It gets my blood pumping just thinking about it. The mystic, early morning steam rolls off of the glass-calm water.  The wake of your favorite topwater bait pierces through the surface. Then it happens.  The moment that kept you awake last night as you tossed and turned in bed. The very reason you fish. A massive wake surges toward your bait. You speed up your cadence, then give it a quick pause. WOOSH! It looks as if Sasquatch tossed a 1972 Volkswagen on top of your bait.  Chaos ensues and time stands still as you wrestle the behemoth in his element. That moment drives us all as anglers.

Contrary to popular belief, topwater fishing is not simply limited to lowlight conditions. In fact, some of the most vicious blowups you’ll ever see occur in the middle of sunny, bluebird-sky days. Last weekend, I got the chance to experience this phenomenon first-hand, and you couldn’t slap the grin off my face all day. If you know what conditions to look for and the correct presentation for each condition, you can get your fill of topwater excitement all day long.

Weather conditions

It is important to understand that just because you get a wild hair to throw a topwater plug all day, doesn’t mean they’re going to eat it. Certain conditions often enable anglers to capitalize on this special bite.

The single, most helpful environmental variable when looking for an all-day topwater bite is wind. When the water is dead-calm, bass are extremely skittish and will spook at the smallest inclination of something unnatural –  a loud splash or  noisy rattles – anything that doesn’t seem “right” to them. Frankly, they can be a pain in the rear end in calm water.  For that reason, a slight breeze is ideal when fishing topwater because the bass don’t get a perfect look at the bait, therefore making them more apt to attack it. The wind slightly breaks up the profile of the lure, resulting in the fish having a difficult time spotting anything out of the ordinary.

There is a fine line, however, between “just enough” and “too much” wind. An excessive amount of wind can make your lure very difficult for the bass to track, considerably diminishing your chances of getting bit. In extra-windy conditions, subsurface baits such as jerkbaits and spinnerbaits on windblown banks prove to be more operative.

Anglers often overlook the effect of barometric pressure when targeting big topwater bass. Have you ever noticed how tough the fishing becomes right after a weather front has pushed through your area? When a weather system moves through, an area of high barometric pressure is usually left behind. The high pressure causes the forage to become less-active, and in turn, the bass can seemingly shut off like a light switch. When this happens, bass often position tightly to cover and often don't roam much, making them tough to catch with reaction baits. In these situations, a solid topwater bite can be very hard to find.

Conversely, before a weather front reaches your area, it is generally led by an area of low barometric pressure. Bass absolutely love low pressure and feed aggressively throughout the day, making topwater fishing a tremendously effective technique. As the lower pressure moves through an area, it will push the pods of shad upwards towards the top of the water column. This is when you will begin to notice a great deal of surface activity, such as shad skipping across the surface and bass blowing through the bait clouds. Walking topwater baits or small prop baits are ideal on low-pressure days, as they are outstanding imitations of frantic, fleeing shad.

In regards to cloudy versus sunny skies, there are two different trains of thought on topwater fishing. On overcast days, bass will not position as tightly to structure, therefore roaming around and searching for food much more. This will make the bass much more accessible, as they will emerge from thick cover, but they will be spread out and pinpointing them proves more difficult. In sunny conditions, however, the bass may not be feeding as aggressively, but when they blow up on your bait, they will absolutely choke it. During sunny conditions, it is necessary to make long, accurate casts to specific cover such as stumps and blowdowns. There is no science behind topwater fishing in cloudy versus sunny skies, so I always like to try it regardless of the skies—sometimes keeping the bass honest is the most effective way to get on a great pattern.


Water conditions

Topwater fishing is heavily dependent upon the bass’ ability to see the bait. In order to maximize your chances of success, it is imperative to find the clearest water you can possibly find, which is usually located in the lower end or dam-area of most lakes or around natural vegetation that often filters out the silt in the water. Clear water allows the bass to locate the bait from a longer distance and get a much better “bead” on the bait.

In clear water situations, very careful attention to detail on your baits is vital. I like to replace my back treble hook with a feathered treble hook—when the bait is paused, those small feathers barely move, but it’s often enough to entice a strike from a following bass. When I throw walking baits in areas where threadfin shad is the primary forage, I draw the characteristic dot behind the gill plate with a permanent marker. If I’m in a clear water fishery that’s home to a lot of blueback herring, I will only use topwaters with a blue hue to them. There are countless adjustments you can make—sure, they’re very small adjustments, but seemingly trivial modifications make an enormous difference in clear water fisheries.
 
While topwater baits can certainly draw strikes in stained water throughout the day, you will notice an increase in slaps and short-strikes due to the lack of visibility, as it will inhibit the bass’ ability to accurately target your offering. To combat this, I use very bright, loud baits in dirtier water. It may look a little unnatural to the human eye, but a chartreuse belly is much easier for a bass to hone in on than a bone-colored belly. Stained water will also require repetitive casts to the same piece of cover. You may have to throw 20 times at the same stump to get that 5-pounder to bite.

Conditional presentation

The right weather and water conditions are great when fishing topwater, but neither will do you a bit of good without the proper presentation. There are hundreds of different ways to fish topwater baits, but a select few tactics are most helpful when searching for that special, all-day topwater bite.

Clear water requires extremely long casts, so loosen that tension on your reel and start firing away. I’m not talking about 20-yard casts – more like bombing 40-yarders. While it may seem like overkill, it will dramatically increase the number of bites you get. I also tend to work my bait much faster in clear water. As discussed earlier, I don’t want the fish to get a great look at it. Instead, I am trying to solicit a reaction bite, and fishing a bait quickly will accomplish that goal. If you tick ‘em off enough, almost any bass is catchable.

When I encounter dirty water and/or cloudy skies, I am thinking one thing—I want to make a racket. I want every fish in the area to see and hear my bait coming through the water. Even if they’re not hungry, you need to have the mindset that you’re going to make them eat. Because I tend to get a lot more strikes on-the-pause in these conditions, I like to frequently pause my bait for extended amounts of time—usually until the rings from its surface disturbance fade. While it does take patience to fish in this manner, you’ll get plenty of confidence in it after the first few bites.

Topwater fishing throughout the day doesn’t work every single time—several variables need to fall into place. However, it’s certainly an undervalued tactic within the bass fishing world. Big bass see jigs, worms and crankbaits all the time—when was the last time they saw a big, ugly topwater plug knocking around above their heads? If you think outside the box at times, you will surprise yourself. Remember, it doesn’t always have to make sense. If you find them crushing a topwater in the middle of a sunny day, don’t question it; just smile and enjoy it!












































How to Go Lipless for More Bass This Fall

  
  
  
  
  
  
Targetting fall bass with lipless crankbaits

Flushing out bass in the fall can effectively be done fishing one proven shad imitator

By Jason Sealock

The quickest way to a bass's heart is through his mouth. Okay that might be a stretch, but one thing is for sure, when a bass has feeding on the brain he gets predictable and patternable. Fall brings a binge impulse for the bass, largely because forage has spent the spring and summer spawning and growing and they gang up in massive schools. The grouping of the forage in late summer is like a magnet drawing bass out of their deep summer haunts and into the creeks.

James Niggemeyer travels the country fishing Elite Series events but has also spent most falls chasing bass on Texas fisheries like Lake Fork, Sam Rayburn and Cedar Creek. He loves fall fishing for one reason – he can just pick up a bait like a Red Eye Shad and go!

"I just love the change of pace that comes when you can pick up a lipless bait in the late summer and fall when the bass are moving with the bait and just cover water," Niggemeyer said. "It's such a good relief after you've been out there fishing deep, throwing marker buoys and fishing ledges to come shallow and just pick a rod and burn it up. I love this time of year. I just grab a few rods with spinnerbaits, square bills, lipless baits and topwaters and run and gun."

The first thing he notes is that bait drive bass, not water temperatures. Niggemeyer has had great success in late summer when the water temperatures are still hot and he's had equally good or even better success when the water temps are dipping into their winter time climes.

"I've caught bass fishing lipless baits from the end of the summer all the way up to prespawn the next year," he said. "It's so effective at just covering water. You can move fast, target schooling fish and follow them around as they migrate to the backs of the creeks in fall and then back out again going into winter. It's effective out on creek channels and in inches of water in the backs of bays. In fact I'm always surprised just how shallow a bass will get and react to a lipless bait."

Niggemeyer starts seeking out bass about halfway back into the major creeks, especially ones that have feeder creeks coming out of the backs of them. He's found more success going up into the bays than starting way out in the mouth.

"I used to fish all the creeks from the mouth to the back," he said. "Now I've found that most of the time I'm really finding and targeting those shad chasing bass in the back third of most major creeks."


The presence of structural elements like secondary points, channel swings, ditches running through major flats, even road beds or humps toward the backs of the creeks can be good. Fort Gibson was a good example for him recently. He finished 2 ounces out of the top 12 cut and was on the right pattern to win, but came up one good bite short of making the final day cut. But what he found in that event was the bass were already following the shad in the back third of some of the major creeks and he was able to pinpoint them and catch them around those structural elements with cover nearby.

Another thing he likes to see in a quality area is above average shad. A lot of the shad in late summer and fall can be small. Waves of 1 inch and 2 inch shad undulating through pockets and coves. Then he'll round a corner and find schools of bigger 3 and 4 inch shad or maybe some active gizzards in the area and he starts catching bass and often better quality bass.  

"I always like the presence of bait and a defined creek channel around," he said. "As you get to the back third of a creek it will be flatter and more silted in but those hard edges of a channel can attract better bait and better bass. The change in depth may only be a few inches but the bottom composition may change drastically. That hard edge means a lot to the bait and the bass. And if you have the presence of grass or wood mixed in, you're going to find the bass."

Once he's found a promising area, he'll take the deck with a 7-foot, 4-inch St. Croix Mojo Crankster rod with 12 to 14-pound Gamma Fluorocarbon and a 6.4:1 Ardent Edge reel. He likes to cover water quickly at first with straight medium to fast retrieve. As he moves around in the area and targets cover like standing timber, stumps, dock posts and vegetation he'll add a lift and drop retrieve with his Red Eye Shad. And when he reaches the backs of the creek and coves, he'll burn the bait over shallow inches of water to entice those extremely shallow fish.

"Those three retrieves will cover all the bases for me with lipless crankbaits," Niggemeyer said. "Of course I will snatch it out of grass when fishing around vegetation, but for the most part it's a steady retrieve most of the time, followed by a lift and drop retrieve. That Red Eye Shad falls perfectly straight with a nice shimmy. I can use that to my advantage. So I can wind the bait around the cover then as I get next to something vertical like a dock post or stump, just kill it and let it fall and catch a lot of ambushing bass that way.

"I love throwing it around docks too. So often it's an overlooked technique in the fall. You can hear the bait all the way back to the boat echoing under the dock and you'll actually hear the rattle stop before you feel the strike a lot of the time."

Niggemeyer keeps his color selection very simple. Chrome Sexy Shad has become his go-to color but he also really likes gold when he's fishing tannic waters like he often finds in Texas. If it's overcast, or the water is a little dirty, regular Sexy Shad with that more white side can be dynamite. He keeps other colors on hand but really feels like with chrome, gold and white he can cover all his shad-mimicking bases.

Most of the time he's throwing a 1/2 ounce in the fall. He can cover water, throw it far and still pull it through cover easily. Some of the time when the bass get dirt shallow in inches of water he'll burn a 1/4 ounce Red Eye. He hardly ever employs the 3/4 ounce model in the fall as he's wanting to fish more horizontally fast and cover water as fast as possible to find active feeders.

So as the shad move into the creeks on your local lakes, start moving with them with a fast moving bait like a lipless crankbait. Work from 1/2 way in to the back to the back of the creek fishing pockets, points, flats with defined channels and other structure, especially those with cover like grass, wood and manmade docks.

As the water cools this pattern actually gets stronger and according to Niggemeyer, the bass get a lot better.

"I love finding this pattern early in late August and September, but some of my best days with a lipless crankbait have come in November," Niggemeyer said. "It's just a fun refreshing way to catch them and it seems like the you get more dialed in to where they are headed and you often just keep at it until you stumble on a good group of bass that are the right ones. I love catching big bass when they are so aggressive like this and the fall lipless bite is a great time in fishing."












































Cranking River Rip Rap in the Fall

  
  
  
  
  
  
Clackin Crank bass fishing


Cranking rip rap can be a quick remedy to tough river fishing in the fall
by Walker Smith

There’s no question about it—fishing rivers in the fall can be quite challenging. Gone are the simple spring fishing days of multiple kickers in the livewell and plenty of 2-pounders to boot. By the time autumn rolls around, bass are skittish, leaving many fishermen scratching their heads. Rest easy, fellow anglers—cranking rip rap is a great way to combat this age-old conundrum.

Forrest Wood Cup champion Jacob Wheeler has spent his entire life perfecting his fishing skills in river systems throughout the Midwest. He recently shared some of his favorite tactics and crankbaits for tackling fall’s notoriously tough river fishing.

More: How did Jacob win the FWC?

The difficulty of fall river fishing
In order to increase your river fishing success in the fall, it is necessary to understand the correlating biological aspects. As the unforgiving heat of summer fades and the days begin to shorten,  shad instinctively embark on annual migrations towards shallow water. Many of the country’s river systems lack adequate backwaters and feeder creeks.  Without an abundance of creeks to draw migrating shad, effectively locating large concentrations of bait can prove to be quite a challenge.

In addition to the lack of feeder creeks, many river systems experience dramatic drawdowns throughout the fall months. With the dropping water, both shad and bass have a very limited amount of cover and structure.

“Low water levels can make fall river fishing even more difficult,” said Wheeler. “Bass can’t set up on their accustomed cover, and it takes a lot of the visual element out of fishing. That can be tough to overcome at times.”

Another difficulty of fall river fishing can be attributed to the fishing pressure that the bass have been exposed to throughout the year. Bass are smart creatures and become weary of the traditional baits that we use to fool them.

“A lot of the bass that we pursue during the fall have been caught once, maybe even twice before,” Wheeler said. “Every weekend these bass get bombarded with worms, jigs and crankbaits, and by this time of year, they are able to tell the difference between the real deal and something artificial.”

Productive areas
With the days getting shorter, it is important to maximize your fishing time, and keying in on specific areas will produce more out of your limited time on the water. Due to the lack of migration options for shad and a decrease in river current, “pinch-points” within the river are essential to fall fishing success. If you can locate an area where the river becomes increasingly narrow, a solid mixture of shad and bass are sure to be in the area.

“I have caught a ton of fish over the years locating these key pinch-points,” Wheeler said. “The corners of bridges are solid starting points, as they are primary travel routes for shad, bottlenecking the fish into a smaller, more confined area. If bridges are few-and-far between in your area, spend some time locating shallow sandbars and small current eddies around rip rap.”

When Wheeler locates rip rap on the river, he focuses solely on any irregularities in the rip rap. Irregularities are considered to be anything that is different from the surrounding rip rap—such as transition areas leading from small-to-big rocks or vice versa, grass patches or anything that may block even the smallest amount of current.

“David Fritts won the FLW Tour Guntersville event in 2009 by focusing on very small, seemingly unimportant irregularities on rip rap banks,” Wheeler said. “He caught the majority of his fish slamming his crankbait into just one rock. If his cast missed by just an inch, he wouldn’t get bit. That is the epitome of fall river fishing.”

While Wheeler occasionally uses his electronics to locate key areas in rip rap banks, expensive electronics are not a necessity. Obvious areas that many anglers overlook include outside river bends, steep channel-swing sections in the bank and large, visible boulders that may block current.


Key depths and presentation
Deep crankbaits definitely have their place when fishing rip rap in the fall, but in the river systems where fish tend to stay shallower throughout the fall, Wheeler opts for a more shallow, power fishing-friendly approach.

“When I’m cranking river rip rap, I only target fish in the 3- to 5-foot range,” Wheeler said. “I feel like I can get a lot more reaction bites doing so. I like to slam my crankbait against shallow rocks as hard as I can, and then pause it for about a second. Most of the time they will hammer it while it’s sitting still.”

Wheeler heavily stresses the importance of finding the proper cadence when power fishing rip rap banks. The fish’s preference can change daily, so it is essential to experiment throughout the day until you discover an effective way to draw strikes.

“Most of the time, I will burn my crankbait through the area, stopping it every time it collides with something,” Wheeler said. “Even though that’s where my confidence is, I still make it a point to periodically change my retrieve. Being very mindful of your cadence can be the difference between a good day and an awesome day.”

Perhaps the most important element to Wheeler’s fall rip rap success is his casting—not necessarily making circus casts into hard-to-reach areas, but paying close attention to the location of his bites. As David Fritts demonstrated in the 2009 Guntersville event, rip rap fish can get very keyed-in on specific pieces of cover. When Wheeler forces a reaction strike from a bass, his first objective is to see exactly where the fish bit. If the fish bit in front of a small grass patch for instance, Wheeler will make several repeated casts to that particular grass bed, while searching for additional areas to duplicate the pattern.

“Don’t be discouraged if you don’t catch a fish in your first few casts,” Wheeler said. “I’ve caught some really big fish after 30 casts to the same exact area. You just have to pay attention to when and how you’re getting bites. Did you stop it? Deflect it? Run it up a little shallower? You have to figure out why it bit and why it was in that specific location.”

Targeting gnarly rocks when fishing river rip rap is a great way to mangle your line in a hurry. After every five casts, it is important to inspect your line for any nicks, abrasions or rough spots. In the days of $10, $15 and sometimes $20 crankbaits, proper line care is a must.

“You have to check your line constantly when you’re fishing like this,” Wheeler said. “I’ve recently upsized to 12- or 14-pound line because the rocks can be really nasty. When I’m targeting such shallow depths, I don’t really care what my line diameter is—as long as my line holds up. Whatever you do, don’t be lazy about re-tying.”

Rod angle is an often-overlooked element to rip rap fishing. Chunking and winding will work at times, but again, successful river rip rap fishing in the fall is a very detail-oriented technique.

“I like to hold my rod tip down and to the outside of the boat as much as possible,” Wheeler said. “I don’t like to simply skim my crankbait across the top of the rocks. I want my rod tip down in order to feel everything that my bait is doing. On occasion, I’ll hold my rod tip up in extremely shallow situations, but down and to-the-outside is definitely my preference.”

Not only does the proper rod angle let you feel the bait better—it also helps control the depth of your crankbait. While a Rapala DT Flat 3 will run approximately 2 feet deep with a high rod tip, the same bait will run 4-feet deep with a low rod tip. In this game, two feet can make a world of difference.

Boat positioning
If you drive over the bridge of almost any river during a busy Saturday, you are likely to see several bass boats lined up on the rip rap throwing perpendicular to the bank. While it may be easier than throwing parallel to the rip rap, fishing perpendicular is the quickest way to minimize your success.

“When I’m cranking river rip rap, I can literally touch the rocks with my rod tip,” Wheeler said. “I want to get right up on the bank to ensure that my crankbait stays in the strike zone for as long as possible. If you fish at a 90-degree angle to the bank, your crankbait will only be in the strike zone for about two cranks of the reel handle, which is never good.”

While fishing closely to the bank will produce more fish, it requires some special attention to detail. Wheeler prefers to set up his cast in a manner that allows him to execute a sweeping hookset to the outside of the boat. Doing so will not only protect your rod from the rocks, but will also help minimize the chances of the fish breaking you off in the rip rap.




Wheeler’s top-four fall rip rap crankbaits

Rapala Shad Rap No. 7
Favorite Colors: Shad, Helsinki Shad and Silver
Rod: Medium-fast spinning rod
Reel: Shimano Stradic CI4 Spinning Reel
Line: 10-pound Sufix 832 braid main line with a 10-pound fluorocarbon leader
“It’s hard to beat a Shad Rap,” Wheeler said. “I throw it a ton in the fall, because its tight wiggle will draw strikes when absolutely nothing else will.”

Rapala DT Flat
Favorite Colors: Old School, Penguin and Disco Shad
Rod: 7-foot, medium-action Quantum Tour KVD Cranking Casting Rod
Reel: 6.2:1 Shimano Core 100MG Casting Reel
Line: 12-pound monofilament
“The DT Flat has a killer action that has helped me catch a lot of big fish,” Wheeler said. “Its coffin lip deflects off the rip rap really well and drastically reduces my hang-ups.”

Rapala DT6
Favorite Colors: Old School, Penguin, and Disco Shad
Rod: 7-foot, medium-action Quantum Tour KVD Cranking Casting Rod
Reel: 6.2:1 Shimano Core 100MG Casting Reel
Line: 14-pound fluorocarbon
“The DT6 is unique because it dives deep, yet maintains a tight wobble,” Wheeler said. “It will run a little over 5-feet deep on 14-pound fluorocarbon, and that’s about as deep as I like to get when I fish river rip rap in the fall.”

Rapala Clackin Crank
Favorite Colors: Helsinki Shad, Silver and Mossback Shiner
Rod: 7-foot, medium-action Quantum Tour KVD Cranking Casting Rod
Reel: 6.2:1 Shimano Core 100MG Casting Reel
Line: 12-pound monofilament
“The Clackin Crank is one of the most underrated baits on the market,” Wheeler said. “They have a very different sound than other baits, and it gets down there and shows the fish something a lot different than they’re used to seeing.”


Although fishing rivers throughout the fall can be tricky, don’t let it discourage you from giving it a shot. If you get your hands on the right baits, find the proper areas and concentrate on the critical depths while ensuring a proper presentation through correct boat positioning—you just might have a day to remember.





































































































Old-School Overhaul on Bass Fishing Lures

  
  
  
  
  
  
Titanium terminator bass

By Shaye Baker

I like to reminisce from time to time. Most fishermen do. I think back to some of my most memorable moments spent on the water. Growing up fishing with my dad. Some have stuck with me on account of a big fish catch. Others were just great days on the water. All, however, involved one thing for certain—a fishing lure.

Some bait or another was a part of each and every memory. I can think back to a plethora of past plastics and hard baits that I haven’t laid eyes on in years. I remember every color, texture and smell.

Baits that I grew up fishing. Baits that brought in thousands of pounds of fish, or so I like to remember. Everyone who has fished a large portion of his or her life has baits like these. Memories from one manufacturer or another.

For some reason, and all too often, we get away from these baits. We put them away. They take a back seat to the next big thing. In some instances manufacturers halt production. Sometimes the local bait store just stops carrying them, an event prior to the internet that was detrimental to the regular purchase of a particular lure.

Nowadays however, it’s typically a mere brain lapse that relocates a lure to the shelf of relics. Out of sight, out of mind. With the invent of the internet, its possible to find anything, anytime, anywhere. But you can’t find something you don’t remember. No, to jog the memory it takes something as simple as a day spent loafing with your significant other.

I ran across such a lure while milling through a tackle shop in Mississippi with the missus this past week – a Terminator spinnerbait. Now for some who have spent a few more blue moons on the water than myself, these spinnerbaits aren’t that old. I’m showing my lack of age here a little but all the same this is one of my long lost favorites and I was excited to stumble upon it.

This one didn’t look exactly like I remembered however. The head had a new shine and there was a new skirt style with an elongated center portion, meant to work as a built-in trailer. But I could see the trademark, titanium arm that initially set the spinnerbait apart from all others.

As a kid, I remember taking one of these spinnerbaits out of my dad’s tackle box and inadvertently trying to tear it up, as most young boys will do with anything they can get their hands on.

I would pull the arm all the way down and then move my finger, as it would snap back into place. I would pull the blades all the way behind the head and it would rocket back into its initial position again. It wouldn’t bend, and I couldn’t break it, a rarity at that age.

Upon seeing this resurrection of an old classic, I had to have it. I tore it from the packaging as we left the store. I couldn’t wait to get it back in the water. On its maiden voyage, I took it out to my home lake to take a trip down memory lane. Old friend in hand, I started down the bank. The first couple of bites brought back a lot of memories. A couple 3- to 4-pounders created new ones.

A total of around 20 bites in a short afternoon of fishing certainly rekindled an old relationship – one I thought I’d lost. Think back on some of your most memorable moments on the water – maybe growing up fishing with your dad, perhaps a few big fish catches or maybe just a good day spent on the water. Do you remember a lure at the root of it all? If you do, I suggest knocking the dust off.



























Five for 5 | Five Lures You Should Dig Out of Grandpa's Tackle Box

  
  
  
  
  
  
jitterbug

Throwback lures can still be very viable bass fishing options

By Terry Brown (photos by Matt Saulcy)

Being around fishing for as long time can be an advantage. Seeing the old and now the new gives perspective on the creative and the copied. Living through the early days when the technology was in its infancy, baits were sometimes archaic and clunky but they were original. They were best we had and they caught fish. Today, space age materials and manufacturing processes have for the most part replaced handmade. Plastic and tungsten has replaced wood and lead but the heart of the design is still relevant and many of the builders have the same passion.

Today’s fishing community has kept up with new products and new technology. Matter of fact they live for it and seek information on anything new. Manufacturers create lighter and stronger tools now, however, they may not necessarily be better.

Jason Christie has won a bunch of money this year on the old original Rebel crankbait that is no longer in production and it was the key to his latest Bassmaster Open win on Ft. Gibson.


There are several products that have been around for a while that I still like to use. They may be a bit battle scarred, but all they need is to be dusted off, customized a bit and brought back into action. They still catch fish. Remember, the old set the course; the new just streamlined it.

Five old bait favorites, in no particular order, that still catch fish today are:



1.    Fred Arbogast Jitterbug - The Jitterbug is a topwater bait that has a very unique metal lip and a pivoting line tie that allows the bait to walk slowly side to side. To-date,  nothing has been built that has the same wobbling action. It is exceptionally good at night and low light conditions and works well around lily pads and fished parallel to the bank.

The Jitterbug is best worked slowly in calm water. A steady retrieve and a slower gear ratio reel is a must for this bait.

If an older model is used today, change out the metal hardware and replace with eye hooks, split rings and sharper hooks.  The Jitterbug is still sold today. There are nine models of the Jitterbug including a weedless and jointed models.


2.    Cotton Cordell Big O - One of the first molded plastic crankbaits this shallow diver has some unique properties that make it special including a very unique rattle, with several small BB’s, a wide wobble and a molded bill that makes it super durable. Cotton Cordell made this bait from a Fred Young carving in 1973. The Cordell Big O is still sold today but we really like the older models best for tough days on docks and over grass.


3.    Heddon Zara Spook - The Original Spook is a two hook model that also came with screw in hardware. The unique side to side walking action coined “walking the dog” generates big explosive blow-ups. The cigar-shaped bait had no lip or rattle and some even came with glitter glued to the bait. The “old dogs”  are the ones I like best but remove the hardware and use better hooks. The old hardware can bind, pull loose and cause lost fish.


4.    Rapala Floating Minnow - This lifelike, balsa stickbait has been around for decades, one of the first baits from Rapala. Its shape and lifelike action imitates a minnow, and because it is made from balsa, it floats very high on top of the water. It works great both jerked in shallow water and fished like a topwater. I especially like this bait in clear water and during the spawn. A couple of quick jerks followed by a long pause allows the bait to float to the surface and mimic and injured minnow.

Just about every gamefish on the planet has fallen victim to the Rapala Floating Minnow, and rest assured it is still a big seller today for Rapala.

The lip design allows the bait to dive nose down and have erratic action when twitched. My two favorite colors and sizes are Silver (11S) and Gold (11G) and comes in several lengths including my favorites of 11 and 13.  Its casts on a 6 foot baitcasting set-up well but seems to have more followers using spinning gear. The hooks on this bait are super sticky out of the box and are short shank models that do not tangle.


5.    Bagley Diving B II - This Jim Bagley creation was one of the first wide-wobbling, deeper-water balsa crankbaits I purchased. The Killer B and Dredge were later models I gravitated to, but I still have an affinity for the action of the Diving B II.  This bait is silent, has the unique rounded Bagley lip design and was carefully painted to make it visible to bass in a variety of water clarities. It dives 6-8 feet depending on line size and utilized a wire through bait technology to hold the hooks and lip line tie as a single unit making it very durable and easily tuned.

This bait works well on points but was especially effective on docks with a stop and go retrieve. You can actually tune the bait to run under the dock on the retrieve. Stopping the bait and letting it rise quickly generates the most vicious strikes.

Other great baits I still have in my arsenal that didn’t make my top five but still have a place in my memory banks are the original Storm Wiggle Wart and Short Wart, the Luhr Jensen Woodchopper, the Smithwick Devils Horse, the South Bend Nip-I-Diddee, the Heddon Hellbender, Brother’s Bait Company Limberneck Spinnerbait, the Lunker Lure Original Buzzbait and the Heddon Tiny Torpedo.

Don’t be afraid to pull some of these old baits out and give them a try. I bet you catch fish on them.  
















































Flipping for Fall Bass

  
  
  
  
  
  
Fall flipping bass on plastics with John Crews

Aside from traditional fall crankbait patterns, shallow water flipping can prove very effective

By Walker Smith

It’s almost here. The crisp breeze, clean air, cool mornings and the light morning frost on your boat carpet – fall is on its way. While this fall may be the most widely anticipated season in recent memory due to this summer’s oppressive heat, we “fish heads” have just one thing on our minds – the crankbait bite. The excellent crankbait fishing that fall offers is no secret to most anglers. As the shad make their annual migration toward the backs of creeks, hungry bass are sure to follow.

There is, however, an equally effective, often-overlooked fall pattern for putting bass in the boat. This can be an outstanding time of year for flipping shallow water cover for big bass. While cranking in the fall definitely leads to large quantities of bass, many anglers have a hard time locating and putting that “kicker” fish in the boat. If you break out your big flipping rods, you may be surprised at the number of quality bass you catch.

Missile Baits pro John Crews flips his way to big checks in professional fishing, and though he's also known as a crankbait chunker and winder, he’s often camped out in the shallows with his flipping stick in hand. He recently shared some of his favorite fall flipping conditions, locations and baits.

Conditions to seek

As with any fishing technique, successful fall flipping depends heavily on several specific conditions. Anglers should consider bait location the most important variable within a fishery in the fall, which can change daily.

“The location of bait differs with every lake,” Crews said. “In some lakes, the shad tend to concentrate in the main creek channels during the fall, while in other lakes the bait will stack up in the backs of creek flats. It’s important to be adaptive because the bait is always moving. Let the shad tell you where they are and don’t get locked into any hard-set rules. It’s all about the bait, even when you’re flipping.”

Weather conditions also play a large role in Crews’ decision-making process. Bluebird skies and calm winds make for perfect flipping conditions as the fish will position tightly to cover, allowing for pinpoint casts to likely big bass dwellings. Just as we would put sunglasses on to protect our eyes from the sun, bass use underwater cover to improve their perception in sunlight. While cloudy or rainy conditions generally aren’t ideal for flipping, Crews will still flip soft plastics while alternating between various moving baits.


Depth

Fall is a time when shallow water fishermen feel right at home. With both the bait and the bass continuously migrating towards shallow water, Crews doesn’t waste much time flipping deep structure.

“Bass will get surprisingly shallow in the fall, much like in the springtime,” Crews said. “I’m going to be very shallow in the fall, and I generally won’t flip a piece of cover unless it’s in 3 feet of water or less.”

With many of the country’s lakes having fall drawdowns, it is important to focus on any shallow, hard cover that remains in the water.  With more cover high and dry in the fall, the few pieces that are still submerged will generally hold larger concentrations of fish. When an angler makes just a few casts towards the cover with a lure, the bass only have a split-second to react to the bait. To combat this problem, Crews prefers to slow down and thoroughly flip the piece of structure in order to give more bass a good look at his offering.

“When the bass get concentrated on shallow cover in the fall, it’s always best to keep your bait in the strike zone for as long as possible. Sure, you can pick one or two bass from it with a moving bait, but if you really pick it apart you may catch a lot of fish that you may have otherwise missed.”

If Crews develops a pattern on hard, shallow cover, he will often try to hit as many similar areas as possible.

“The key to successful fall flipping is largely about covering water,” Crews said. “Bass are constantly on the move this time of year, and it’s important to think on your feet and move with the fish.”

Bait selection

Numerous bass fishermen fall into the trap of thinking that big baits catch big bass. While this can certainly prove true throughout different times of the year, it is not the case when flipping in the fall. A smaller, more subtle bait will frequently outperform larger, bulkier baits. Not to say he doesn't on occasion break out a bigger profile bait but he's found smaller profiles unique for a simple reason.

“Over the years I’ve found that a subtle, darting action is much more effective for fall flipping,” Crews said. “Fish are a lot more pressured later in the year, with many having been caught before. They get accustomed to seeing big baits and are less likely to be fooled by them.”

For the majority of situations, Crews turns to his signature Missile Baits Missile Craw, as its small profile will elicit reaction bites. As the bait falls through the water column, the darting action initially draws the bass’ attention, and when slowly hopped along the bottom, the bass will move in for the kill.

“The Missile Craw doesn’t have a lot of appendages which gives it a very natural, non-threatening presentation,” Crews said. “When you hop in on the bottom it looks just like a small crawfish trying to hide, which represents a quick, easy meal for bass. You’ll get a few bites on the fall, but most bites occur when it’s on the bottom.”

When flipping these smaller baits throughout the fall, Crews uses a 7-foot, 6-inch medium-heavy Pinnacle Perfecta Micro DHC5 rod paired with a Pinnacle Optimus XiHS 7.3:1 reel spooled with 20-pound Vicious Pro Elite Fluorocarbon. For the business end, Crews prefers a 5/16-ounce tungsten weight and a 3/0 Gamakatsu Heavy Cover Flippin’ Hook.

“The weight allows the bait to fall quickly and draw an initial reaction from the bass, while allowing me to maintain bottom contact,” Crews said. “A 1/4-ounce weight is not quite heavy enough to make it dart like I want, and a 3/8-ounce is generally too heavy. If I’m flipping thick grass or dense cover I may switch it up and flip a Missile Baits D Bomb with a 3/8-ounce or 1/2-ounce weight so I can really get into the thicker cover.”

Because fall bass can be quite wary, Crews urges the importance of good hookup ratios. Unhappy with poor hookup ratios with other soft plastic baits, Crews developed a hook slot in the bottom of the Missile Craw to allow for more solid hooksets. Likewise he developed soft ridges on the D-Bomb to give a good hook up every time.

“The Missile Craw’s hook slot allows the hook to really jump out on the hookset, which really reduces my number of missed fish,” Crews said. “It’s all about confidence. When I get a bite, I know that fish is getting in the boat. I caught the majority of my fish on it throughout the PAA event on Neely Henry. It’s  an incredible bait for pressured fish in cover.”

There’s no question about it—fall fishing is a blast. As the boat traffic dies down, the brutal heat begins to fade and the fish become more active, anglers are vastly rewarded for their patience during the hot summertime months. In addition to the classic reaction bait fishing that fall is widely known for, flipping in the right conditions and targeting the proper depths with the right baits can lead to some big autumn bass.




























































The Quest for 100 Kickers in Bass Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
Fish No 1 for Shaye


By Shaye Baker

I have recently embarked on a quest of sorts. For those of you who don’t know me, I have always enjoyed fishing for big fish. There’s just something different about the way you fish when you target kicker fish. It has a different feel to it. The expectations are higher, as are the rewards.

I caught a 4-pounder on Sept. 1, 2012, and as I was replaying the fish catch in my head, I thought about how interesting it would be to try and catch 100 "big" fish in one year. That got me to contemplating what exactly is a “big fish” and how many would I have to catch on average to meet such a goal. Say a big fish weighs at least 4 pounds. If I fished every day, I would have to get one kicker bite weighing more than 4 pounds every three and a half days or so.

But not just get the bite. I would have to put each bite in the boat. With the realistic likelihood of losing at least 20 percent of the big bites that I would get and the pure reality that I would never be able to fish every single day the odds started to stack heavily against me.

On top of all that, how would I even prove that it had been done if I were to pull it off. As if the difficulty of catching a hundred kickers in a year's time wasn’t enough, I would now have to prove it if I ever wanted anyone to believe it.

Pictures wouldn’t be enough. Anyone could catch a fish and hand it to me to take a picture. Plus, how different could a hundred 4-pound-plus fish really look. If people were scrolling through an album of big fish pics, surely some skeptics would suspect that I had merely changed shirts or hats and took a few different grip and grins with the same fish.

No, for it to be authentic people would have to see every cast, every bite, every hookset and every fish come into the boat. In order to do that there would only be one solution. I would have to video all of it. Hours, days, weeks, months of footage. A years worth. The concept had me a little excited to say the least.

So I mentioned it to my friends at Wired2Fish. Knowing they were a like-minded crew I wanted to know if it were something that they would like to see done as pure fans of fishing. Their excitement over the project, along with their contemplation over whether it could even be done, fueled the fire that I had already set inside my mind. Soon the concept became a reality and now it’s not can it be done, but will it be done.

I have now begun this long and arduous journey that will surely lead to some exhilarating triumphs and some heartbreaking mishaps. This quest with carry all the way through to September 1, 2013.

Backdating to the 5-pounder that sparked the idea, I have now caught three fish weighing more than 4-pounds in just the last six days. This does not include an 8-pound, 4-ounce beast that I caught on Sept. 5, the second-largest-public-water bass that I have ever caught, since it was caught at night without the camera rolling. Every fish has to weigh more than 4-pounds and the entire fish catch has to be recorded.  

I only have a few other rules. Since this feat could likely be reached in a few weeks at Lake Guntersville throwing an umbrella rig, I vow that not one of the targeted hundred will be caught with an umbrella rig. There will be no live bait and no guides. Just 100 big fish catches, caught on film, in one year, on artificials you would throw on your own lakes and rivers. At least that’s the goal!

And at the end of this we're going to have an interesting perspective on the nature of catching kickers on regular lures, and a lot of data to extrapolate for interesting topics not to mention a lot of how-to video footage along the way on making the most of your time on the water.

And if you choose to do so, you can keep up with me along the way. I will be posting regular blog, photo and video updates throughout my ‘Quest for a Hundred Kickers’ on my Facebook page and shayebaker.com as well as intermittent blog and video updates to Wired2Fish’s Facebook page and Wired2Fish.com.

Hopefully I will be able to pull it off. Wish me luck. It’s time to hit the water.






































Five for 5 | Five Skirted Jighead Styles for Bass Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
5 jighead styles you need for bass fishing

We've had a great response to our last Five for 5 blog on five custom skirts you can build on your own for skirted bass jigs. We appreciate the feedback and response to that piece and we wanted to follow that up with one on a reoccurring question, what jigheads to we like to put these skirts on when bass fishing. Great question and one that certainly should be addressed.

In my mind there are really five major jighead types for skirted bass jigs. There are certainly multitudes beyond that of different shapes for each of the five major categories, for as we know in fishing, everyone wants something just a little different. But for the most part I would say the five classes of jigheads for skirted jigs would be a football jig, a swim jig, a finesse round ball jig, an Arkie or other flipping head, and a casting head.

Certainly you can swim an Arkie head or cast a ball head so there is a grey area when it comes to the application of different style heads. But I'll go into why I think each head style is unique and the application for it is unique. But will I have all five jigheads on the deck of my boat at one time? Usually I will not. I might have a flipping jig, a football jig and a swim jig at one time on there but hardly ever all three. But when I go to different locales, I start filling my box with one particular type or another based on the situations I expect to face.

The Football Jighead


This head shape is obviously the shape of our favorite pigskin pastime game ball. Only it's turned sideways on the hook eye. The reason for this is it gives the jig a wide nose that helps it roll over rocks instead up sliding into a crevice with a pointing nose and getting your line lodged leading to more snags. Because of its shape and size, you can also get a pretty heavy one, up to 1 ounce. That makes it a great option for casting and fishing deep and dragging it around over large areas out deep.

I've found that I like a really sharp hook and one with a bit more open gap that doesn't flex. The reason is I make long casts with not terribly heavy line. So I might have to drive a hook in a fishes mouth 20 yards away in 25 feet of water. But I've also caught bass to 8 pounds on this style jighead so a hook that flexes is no good.  I typically fish it with a steady sideways drag like a Carolina rig. Occasionally I will stroke the jig up off the bottom to try to get reaction bites. I like it with a twin-tail trailer threaded onto the hook most of the time.

The Flipping Jighead


Anglers at all levels have proven that flipping a jig can be a deadly, tournament-winning strategy on a variety of lakes from coast to coast. The Arkie style head developed by the Carnes brothers of Arkie Jigs has been probably the longest and lasting design for a flipping jighead but it's certainly not the only shape for a flipping head.

What I like about the Arkie head though is it has a head shape that is cupped so it planes, skips and stays up right for the most part while fishing. That's part of its allure when it comes to fishing heavy cover. If you can keep your hook point up and over the cover instead of sideways and down in the cover, you will be snagged a lot less.  Typically with flipping jigs I will just hang my plastic on the hook like I used to do with old pork chunks. I like the free swinging trailer, unless I'm fishing in vegetation. Then I will sometimes thread the plastic onto the hook shank just to make the bait a little more compact and easier to get into holes in the vegetation.

A good weedguard is paramount on a flipping jig. A lot of the performance of the weed guard can be dialed up or down with a slight trim. If you cut a weedguard shorter it gets a lot stiffer. If you cut it too short though it won't block the hook point from cover. If you are worried that it's too stiff you can cut individual strands out of the weedguard to make it a little more pliable. You can also fan the weedguard out left and right to give it more coverage area but make the hook point penetrate with less pressure. Just keep in mind if you pull real hard into brush, it's probably going to snag.

Roundball Finesse Jighead


The Eakins Jig from Jewel really put finesse jigging on the map. It was a technique that was born in the Ozarks for fishing on rocky highland reservoirs with ultra clear water. Lakes like Bull Shoals, Table Rock, Beaver and other clear water impoundments have shown that a small profile on a jig can catch some major weight, especially on fisheries that have a mix of largemouth, smallmouth and spotted bass.

The round head is as much about keeping the profile of the jig small. These jigs often have spider cut skirts  with a small flared collar and short strands barely cover the hook. So the round head keeps the profile very narrow and natural. It's great not only casting on rocky banks, but also flipping around floating docks and other cover. But one thing many anglers have found is those light jigs with small heads, skip really well. It's the style Gerald Swindle uses most of the time when he's skipping jigs under docks.

Swim Jigheads


Swimming a jig for bass has been around for 30 years but it really gained popularity in the last 10. The characteristics I like for in a good swim jig head are a flat bottom on the jig so it planes well in the water and a bit of a wedge shape so it will slide between stalks of grass, stakes in a stake bed, and over matted vegetation.  Shapes on swim jigs vary as much or maybe more than any other style of jighead for skirted bass jigs. But for the most part there is some characteristic of both these properties in most good swim jigs.

I will keep my swim jigs pretty simple with either a shad pattern skirt and head or a bluegill pattern skirt and head and occasionally a dark jig for darker water. I like to swim a jig fast because I'm looking for something that causes a great reaction than a spinnerbait just thumping its way around cover. There is really nothing like seeing a huge wake coming 100 mph to run down a swim jig you're reeling as fast as you  can just under the surface.

Casting Jigs


Yep you can cast and fish just about any of the other style heads but when I think of casting jigheads, I'm thinking a lot about those small jigheads with shorter hooks, wire weedguards and compact profiles for fishing for not only largemouths but especially smallmouths. I like to think this technique was born in central Kentucky on lakes like Cumberland and Dale Hollow. Clear water fisheries where smallmouth are prevalent. The small head and wire weedguard seem to make it easier to hook and land smallmouths that are notorious for clamping down on jig so hard that you can't get the hook to penetrate their mouths.

I love to cast a jig because it's such an overlooked and underused presentation for a jig. I will often target steeper banks, points and channel swings, especially in clear and cold water. Then it's just a matter of making long casts, letting the jig sink and then I work it back with three short pops of the rod tip and let it sink. It seems like a crawfish hops in a few short strokes when he's swimming off the bottom and then sort of just glides back to the bottom. When you're after bass that are feeding heavily on crawfish, this jighead style and technique is deadly!

So that's the five jighead styles I'm going to use 99.9 percent of the time. There are a multitude of head shapes and sizes and some may say their designed specifically for other applications, but I've found these five styles will fit just about every application I have encountered from all four corners of the country. Matching a good skirt with a good jighead and applying it to the situation will definitely make you a more efficient fisherman and that leads to more bites and more landed bass.






















































6 Tips for Fishing Matted Vegetation this Fall

  
  
  
  
  
  
Scroggins bass wrapped in grass
How Terry “Big Show” Scroggins approaches aquatic vegetation


By Alan McGuckin

Terry “Big Show” Scroggins just finished the 2012 Bassmaster Elite Series season ranked third overall in the Toyota Tundra Angler of the Year points, and few anglers in the world fish aquatic vegetation more effectively than Scroggins.

He’s won more than $1.5 million in his fairly short professional career, and he graciously provided the following simplified tips for picking apart the weeds more proficiently.

Find the haystack in the hayfield, before you look for the needle.
“A lot of fishermen become immediately overwhelmed by a lake full of vegetation. But really, it’s as simple as finding something different or unique among several other acres of aquatic vegetation,” said Scroggins, a former autobody technician. “Focus on finding the pocket, focus on finding a point, focus on finding an isolated floating mat of hyacinths amid several acres of hydrilla or milfoil. The point is, look for something that sticks out, or something unique."

Try using a much bigger weight.
“Nobody likes to pick weeds off their lure after every cast, but a lot of that aggravation can be avoided if you’ll use a super heavy 11/2-ounce weight to rocket your lure through the pads or grass beds, as well as when pulling the lure back up through it on the retrieve. A weight that big scares a lot of anglers. I even see some Elite Series anglers trying to fish with weights in the weeds that are way too small, but I’m telling ya’ – go big!”

Going big applies to hook, line and fishing rods too.
“I use 65-pound braid, tied to a 6/0 hook on a heavy action fishing rod at least 7-foot long nearly all the time when I’m pitching the grass. Heavy braid is a must for fishing around weeds for three reasons. First, if you’re using that huge 1 1/2-ounce weight, like you should be, you’ll need heavy line paired to your heavy weight. Secondly, you need plenty of pulling power to free the bass from the weedbed once you get a bite. And thirdly, if you do get snagged, braid makes pulling free a whole lot faster and easier.”


Frogs above and tiny craws below.
“If I had two lures for the rest of my life to fish vegetation, it’d be a Yum Big Show Craw and a Booyah Pad Crasher frog. In other words, one lure for on top of the weeds (frog), and another lure for beneath them (craw),” said Scroggins. “It’s really, really important to use a small compact craw. For starters, most of the critters that live around matted vegetation like grass shrimp and sunfish are small, so you’re matching the hatch, and secondly, you can get a 3.5-inch bait in and out of the weeds a heck of a lot easier than a big bait like a creature bait.”

Need convinced you can catch ‘em in the salad?
“Plan a trip to Guntersville, Ala. around Halloween if your confidence for fishing vegetation needs a boost. You’ll have plenty of new fishing friends around you. It’s a very popular reservoir, but the first time a 4-pounder bust through the weeds to eat your frog, or as the locals like to call it – “the cheese” – your confidence will soar,” said Scroggins, reliving sweet memories of autumn days gone by on the northern Alabama fishery.

Have a ribeye with your salad.
 “Whether you’ve been casting a frog or pitching a craw, after a long day of fishing the salad you’re gonna need to eat. I’d recommend a big old nasty ribeye soaked in teriyaki. In less than 20 minutes you can fire up the grill and have your steaks thoroughly marinated in teriyaki. Cook it for ten minutes total. Five minutes on one side. Five on the other. And you’re good to go,” concludes Scroggins, who shares all his favorite lures and recipes at a cool site http://bigshowscroggins.com/.
































Tackle Insider | 3 Skills You Need for Fishing Sponsorships

  
  
  
  
  
  
Palaniuk wins

By Ronell Smith, The Tackle Insider

In the span of less than two years, collegiate bass fishing has veritably exploded, with numerous organizations now offering a collegiate tournament circuit. That means hundreds of young men (and women) can now begin chasing their dreams of becoming a professional angler much younger than ever before. That’s the good news.

The bad news is that, for these young anglers to take advantage of this great opportunity, they must work to attract sponsorship, which is a job unto itself. Between truck, boat and tackle expenses, tournament fishing, even at the collegiate level, can run into thousands of dollars each year. And while many work part-time jobs and can sock away a sizeable portion to cover such expenses, most will fall way short in the pursuit of their dream.

What It Takes

I get a couple dozen emails each month from college bass team anglers, and in every case they all want to know the same thing: “How do I get sponsorship?” The one thing I always say is to “Respect the competition.” By that I mean they must understand that hundreds of young, talented sticks are on the prowl for the same things, so to get noticed, it takes more than a resume and solid tournament credentials.

It takes sales skills.

I’m not talking about selling yourself. I’m talking about being able to sell products for your sponsors. Roll your eyes all you want, but unless you can guarantee tournament wins ( and know that you can’t), the primary currency you have with sponsors is in being an adept spokesperson for their brands. You need the sponsor; The sponsor needs you—if you can sell.

Why That’s Important

It’s no secret that companies are looking to go younger when it comes to sponsoring pros. The move is being driven by the market. The numbers show that the next crop of  bass anglers (college-age, avid bass anglers) pay more attention to anglers who are closer to their age bracket. So, when a young angler wins a tournament or debuts a new products, other young anglers pay more attention than they would if, say, the winning angler was in his 40s or 50s.

As one longtime pro staffer informed me in July, “No one notices when an old-timer wins. They don’t move the needle. But if a young angler like Brandon Card or Brandon Palaniuk does well with your product, you can see movement.” And by movement, he means sales.

The Next Step

Armed with this information, a change of approach is needed, and here’s how to go about it:

1.    Network, network, network.  No one likes to hear this, but folks don’t want to know you until they know something about you. That’s why reaching out to friends and acquaintances to connect you with folks at potential sponsors is invaluable. These marketing and pro staff managers are inundated with emails, phone calls and resumes. But a fresh face recommended by someone you both know gives you a leg up. Also, by working through a third party, it highlights initiative, something that will come in handy down the road.

2.    Volunteer.  One of the best ways to get a foot in the door is through volunteering to work shows, tournaments or other events. You likely won’t be paid for these, so local events might be your only option, but they’ll have a chance to see you in action and be able to determine whether you’ll be a good fit or not. I cannot overstate the importance of volunteering. It’s like auditioning for a job, placing yourself one step closer to your goal.

3.    Sell them, not you. I too often hear that many young pros have out-sized egos, which are perfect for accompanying their overzealous requests. Spend less time trying to sell "Brand You" and more time highlighting your ability to sell your potential sponsor’s brands. You’ll have plenty of time to hone your branding skills, but only if you prove to be a savvy salesman, less interested in self-promotion than in being a great asset.

Ronell Smith, the Tackle Insider, has an extensive history in the fishing tackle industry and has relationships on all sides of the industry to be able to speak to all facets of manufacturing, buying, selling, promoting and growing fishing brands and products. If you need consultation on improving your brand's presence, visit ronellsmith.com or follow him on Facebook and Twitter.

































Five for 5 | Five Custom Bass Fishing Jig Skirts to Make at Home

  
  
  
  
  
  
Skirt tabs, dipping dye and more can lead to some awesome fishing in pressured waters

There are a plethora of jig styles and colors on the market. Unfortunately there are a plethora of jig fisherman on the lakes and rivers we fish too. We often find that a slight color adjustment can make a world of difference, especially when fishing in pressured water behind other anglers.

I keep a box full of black and blue, brown, green pumpkin and other staple colors of jigs. But at times a a really unique color has gotten me way more bites. So I've found I often throw more custom colors as a result because I feel like they won't get me less bites and at times can get me more bites.

There are some great custom jig makers on the market that have some slick color options for skirts. Companies like Cumberland Pro, Taylor Man's, Dirty Jigs and others have some very unique, hand-tied skirts that offer anglers something other than the four or five staple colors everyone offers.

I however am a little OCD when it comes to fishing and tackle and got into making jigs 10 or so years ago. As a result I spend a lot of time making my own jig and spinnerbait skirts at home. Probably my top resource for this addicting habit is Fishboss.com (also known as Fishingskirts.com). A few pros like Gary Klein and industry folks like me have helped them design some of the best looking skirt tabs on the market. And their options are nearly limitless.

I wanted to finally give up the goods on five custom colors I've thrown a lot the last few years to catch a bunch of bass all over the country. If you need help on how to tie your own skirts, this video should help and if you want to do it with wire, this one will help as well. Again I will still back my staple colors but I never leave home without these five custom colors and here's my thought process on each one:

PBJ&J


Yep that's Peanut Butter Jelly and Jelly. Charles Hymes is the owner of Fish Boss and has worked with me and Gary Klein as well as other pros to design tabs that work. We made a suggestion about a pumpkin barbwire skirt with just a slight purple band or two on each tab. That's a great skirt on its own, but I found at times a little more purple is even better. So I add some bright purple to the mix to really accent this skirt.

I've found that by adding accents to my skirt I can have more contrast but if I get in really clear water I can just pull the strands and reduce the contrast. I like have that customizable option on the fly when I'm fishing.

Bare Bellied Lightning Craw


I designed a skirt tab called lightning bug for Fish Boss. I catch a lot of bass on a green pumpkin jig with chartreuse accents.  But I was careful not to add too much chartreuse. The way this tab is made, you can cut the skirt a little shorter to make less chartreuse in the skirt.

But I've found one other characteristic of crawfish interesting. Typically a crawfish has a slight accent color on the ends of its claws or tips of its feet, and it is almost always a lighter color underneath. For these reasons, I took my lightning bug tabs and added some pumpkin barbwire tabs and some burnt orange to give it a lighter bottom and touch of fire accent like a real crawfish. If I want to make it more subdued, I will cut off the chartreuse and pull the orange strands.

Sexy Watermelon


A watermelon skirt is very useful in clear water and for some reason I really like a blue accent on certain stained fisheries. But I've also learned another trick that I use a lot that I've not shared before and that's dipping the ends of watermelon skirts strands in a chartreuse die like JJ's Magic. So now I've got some subtle chartreuse accents, blue accents and a translucent natural green base to work with. Again if I want to make it more natural I might pull some of the blue tabs and not dip the ends in chartreuse. But I love how this looks in the water and it's one heck of a fish catcher.

Bad Bluegill Candy


Another one of my recent favorites for skirt tabs is Fish Boss's Watermelon Candy. It's got subtle flakes of purple and green on a watermelon base. But again I like to spice it up just a little more. So again I might dip the ends in JJs Magic. But I also add a skirt tab I designed for Fish Boss called Fry Chaser. The skirt tab has brown, pumpkin green flake, and purple. When I add that to Watermelon Candy, I get a great looking bluegill color with a lot of green.  But again it's not too overbearing that it won't work in real clear water too.

Black and Blue Shad


I've fished some great black and blue jigs and have caught a pile of bass on that color but I found that when I was making my own, I could never decide on which blue I liked. Well I started experimenting with several different blues and settled on faded blue and blue barbwire and then added a blue ghost shad half barbwire strand or two because I always liked how Cumberland Pro's jigs looked with that shad barbwire in it. This has been a great punch skirt colors, a great color for swimming jigs in dirty water and for flipping and pitching in stained water especially around dark areas like under docks.

So that's five of my favorite handmade colors. I find it a lot of fun to give myself options and make my jigs customizable colorwise on the fly when I'm fishing. I keep jigheads and skirts in the boat so I can mix and match at anytime no matter where I go and find the whole process therapeutic to my OCD with fishing.














































Wired2fish Welcomes Walker Smith to Team

  
  
  
  
  
  
Walker Smith Wired2Fish Hiring
Wired2fish is making some moves to expand our content, especially in the areas of how-to tutorials and the latest fishing tackle reviews. To that end we're happy to announce the hiring of our new full-time Content Manager, Walker Smith.

Smith has a solid background in competitive angling, website management, and freelance writing -- all skills that will prove invaluable to us as we continue on our incredible rate of growth. We're committed to providing anglers with the best video, photography and written content and more of it, and we can't do that without more talent and resources.

Smith's received a Bachelor's Degree in Business from Georgia College State University. Upon graduation he took a job brokering nuts and founded the Nut Exchange website which he still maintains today. When he wasn't working on nut exchanges, he freelanced several articles the last couple of years for publications like FLW Outdoors, Georgia Outdoor News, About.com, Live for Hunting and Wired2fish.

He was a competitive angler with the GCSU bass team of which he was also president for a time. He competed on various circuits as well as the qualifier circuit for the school. He's an accomplished angler on Lakes Sinclair and Oconee in Georgia as well as popular fishing destination Lake Lanier. He's won numerous tournaments on the lakes as well as spent time guiding anglers and showing them the fun of fishing.

"This is a lifelong dream of mine," Smith said, "of which I've worked several years to reach. I'm so blessed to start a full-time career with such a well-respected, highly motivated company like Wired2fish. Fishing is, always has been and always will be an intregal part of my life. I am excited beyond measure and look forward to the chance to use my experience, knowledge and passion to help other anglers excel at fishing and have more fun doing it."

"We're excited to add a talented writer and accomplished angler to our full-time staff," said Wired2fish Vice President, Jason Sealock, "and the addition of Walker is going to give readers an improved experience at Wired2fish through better and more frequent how-to features, videos, tackle reviews, blogs, etc. as we expand and improve our coverage of everything bass fishing and beyond.

"We spent a week with Walker in Atlanta for the Forrest Wood Cup and feel he's going to bring a lot to the table in terms of a better Wired2fish for our rapidly growing readership."

Help us welcome Walker Smith to the Wired2fish team!


















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