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Fishing Brush Piles

  
  
  
  
  
  
Cliff Pace unhooking bass from fishing wood

Find big bass ambush points fishing wood cover sunk by anglers

By Jason Sealock

Every angler values some sort of cover when it comes to bass fishing. Some of the easiest cover anglers can make themselves includes brush piles. But sometimes finding already sunk brush can be the key to big catches throughout the year. Understanding the nuances of fishing brush and fishing wood as opposed to rock and grass once you've found it often equals big success when bass fishing.

We talked recently with Bassmaster Classic champion Cliff Pace on how he finds good brush and then how he goes about making brush work for him in his bass fishing situations. He shared some great insight that all bass anglers should take to heart when targeting brush on any lake.

The right area makes the brush right

Bass get in brush piles to hide from their prey and sometimes around them because of their prey. But the bass won't be there if the area isn't conducive for them.

"For any brush pile to be a good one it's got to be in the right area," Pace said. I look for brush piles within my pattern. If I'm fishing main lake points, I will look for brush around those points. Usually I like the brush piles on a good clean hard bottom because that's what the bass likes."

Pace looks for three things for a brush pile to be right:

  • At the right depth
  • Within a pattern
  • A good hard bottom
Not all brush is good brush

Bass won't occupy every brush pile on a lake. In fact, they inhabit a very small percentage of the brush piles on a lake.

"About 25 percent of the brush I find actually holds bass," Pace said. "So be prepared to find a whole bunch of likely fishing wood that doesn't hold any bass."

That's what he likes about brush pile fishing though. They aren't just everywhere and the bass aren’t in all of them. So that means when you find a handful of good ones, they will generally always be good ones. And the harder you work to find the right ones, the better your fishing will be when they are in that pattern that the brush is in.


Some lakes produce better brush bass

"Typically I like a lake that doesn't have a lot of natural cover for fishing brush piles," Pace said. "If there is grass, and rocks and a lot of manmade structures, brush piles might not be as good as they are on a lake void of a lot of that cover. As they come out of their spawning areas."

But he will look for brush in his area on all the lakes he fishes. It's worthwhile to spend the time for what could potentially be a key bite or two if the fishing gets tough.

Keep in mind that brush can be big hardwood trees piled up or single bushy trees or other pieces of wood that forms an object in the water that baitfish relate to and bass use to ambush.

Technology eliminates guess work

Structure Scan has really made finding brush so much easier for anglers.

"It's really almost not fair anymore," Pace said. "Instead of guess what the pile looked like and if it had fish near it, you can see how many limbs it has and how many bass are on it with these new Lowrance electronics."

Pace will spend a lot of time idling an area looking for brush in out-of-the-way places. Instead of simply focusing right on the tip of a point, he idled the bank leading up to it, the curve out of the point, down the side of the point, then up the other side and around into the cove. He'll make big egg shaped passes around the area looking for brush on the outskirts of the fish holding areas. He often finds the brush that is off to the side of a key spot is the better brush because most folks overlook it.

Once he finds brush he hops up on the deck and makes a few casts until he hits the cover. Then he will immediately get a line up with something on the nearest bank so he can eliminate the guess work when he returns to fish a productive pile.

Fish thoroughly and repetitively

It takes a different array of lures to fish brush versus rock and grass to an extent. The baits that work best often depend on the mood of the bass or season. Pace shared four of his favorites for targeting brush:

When the fish are in the brush, he will work a jig or a worm up and over every branch slowly, trying to make as much contact with the cover as he can on one cast. Many bites will occur just as the lure comes up and over a branch and starts falling again. So it's important to be a line watcher and feel for the bites as it the lure falls through the cover.

If the fish are aggressive, especially in warmer summer months, he will go for a reaction bite by crashing a crankbait into limbs and the top of trees he's fishing. It takes some practice but you can actually get good at worming a crankbait through the brush with your rod and triggering some big fish to bite.

And before he leaves any brush pile he always makes a few casts to it with a spinnerbait. He feels like it's one of the best ways to trigger an aggressive bass to bite around brush. It's been a go to big fish producer for years for him in the warmer months.

It's worth your time to explore your lake and rule out the unproductive brush piles and find those handful of fish producers to always have in your back pocket on a tough day or when you don't have time to run around and find bass, knowing a handful of good brush piles can be a fishing day saver. Fishing brush takes patience but the rewards can be huge in bass fishing.


























































The Right Color Palette for My Fish Finder

  
  
  
  
  
  
Palletes on electronics

By Jason Sealock

More than we need. That's often what comes on a lot of the latest gadgets and gizmos. But if you're like me, you have techno-joy and love that most things, especially our fishing electronics, come with more than we think we need. Probably the most frequent question folks ask involves choosing the best color palette for my fish finder.

Fortunately a lot of the options available to us in fishing have more to do with personal taste than scientific reasoning. The color of a crankbait that I think is magical might look like barf to another angler. With the color palettes on Side Scan, Down Scan and sonar, anglers can choose the best palette based on several variables including:

•    Eyesight
•    Daylight
•    Bottom Composition
•    Cover

One critical factor to remember is that as you change color palettes you need to pay attention to your sensitivity and contrast. They need to be adjusted for each palette so you're getting the clearest picture in that palette.

Seeing is believing

A big variable from angler to angler has nothing to do with personal preference but rather our own makeup. Eyesight comes and goes with age. Some of us were blessed with poor eyesight from the get go. Some of us see only grey. Some of us can't discern between certain color palettes and shades. For this reason, there are several options for varying eye sights from black and white to bright green or red.

"Guys that are color blind often choose options 1 and 2, the black and white palettes, on their Lowrance HDS units," said Chris Meyer, Dealer Trainer and Field Tester for Lowrance. "I prefer 6 and 9 on the Gen 2 Units and palette 7 on the new Touch units. But that's the beauty of it. It's a personal preference and there are enough options that someone who sees red better than green might have a better view with one palette or the other."

Dawn to dusk

At certain times of the day certain color palettes seem to be more visible. In low light, the brighter palettes like the greens, reds and blues seem more visible. In direct sunlight it seems like the browns and oranges and light blue is real visible.

Bugs become a common problem at dusk and into the night. When this is the case, Meyer switches his graph to the bright green screen and the bugs are not attracted to your graphs like they are with big white or light backgrounds.

Identifying objects

Since contrast needs to be adjusted depending on the color palette, it stands to reason certain things on the bottom  tend to show up better in certain palettes. Rocks show up well on the darker palettes while wood shows up better on your fish finder's lighter palettes.

[READ: Clean Up Your Fish Finder's Picture]

Do more

On sonar I simply choose Palette 1 on my Lowrance HDS units. Yellow is hard, blue is soft and it keeps it all pretty simple.

But I do change palettes more with side imaging depending on how bright it is outside, how fatigued my eyes are from staring at a screen, how bad the bugs are in low light conditions, and what I'm actually looking for on the bottom. As I do I constantly keep an eye on my contrast to make sure areas aren't blown out as I switch palettes.

You spend a lot of money for good fish finders these days and you need to get the most out of them. You can see bass others miss just by having your units optimized and doing more than just one thing.


Take this image for example. I got in on a steep ledge a few weeks ago I was scanning with one palette and felt like I wasn't seeing it all, so I switched colors and bumped the sensitivity actually down with the contrast option and saw some fish suspended right off the break in the shadow of the rocks.

I spun the boat around fired my bait into the area and proceeded to catch 8 bass in a row that were suspending off the ledge over open water.  Right as my bait cleared the ledge, a fish jumped all over it. I would have missed those fish if I hadn't made a slight change at the right time. Today's depth finders / chartplotters can improve your fishing a lot and you owe it to yourself to do more with them.

















































Technology Tip | Clean Up Your Fish Finder's Image

  
  
  
  
  
  


By Jason Sealock

I've been talking electronics a lot with anglers the last month or so, and I am learning that a lot of fishermen have anxiety when it comes to how to use electronics when fishing. Maybe anxiety is not the right word, but they are just overwhelmed with all the settings, so they end up doing nothing except turning the graphs on and off.

Luckily for anglers, the technology is so good in fishing depth finders and chart plotters today that they work really well out of the box. But they work a whole lot better if you make a few changes to your settings to get a clear picture.

Sonar is a massively cool technology, and to me side scanning and down scanning are two even cooler technologies. Most anglers who fish from a boat have some sort of sonar, so we'll start there and save the side scan and down scan tweaks for another article.

Sonar sends a ping down to the bottom and receives the "bounce back." The softer the bottom the less return or bounce back the transducer gets from the ping. The harder the bottom or object in the cone of the ping, the more return you will get. These "returns" are then interpreted and plotted on a digital screen.  

Think about it like this. Go scream in your pillow. You don't hear much. Now go stand next to the wall in your bedroom and scream at it. There is a much louder echo or "return" on your scream.

In essence what you are doing when tweaking your sonar settings is trying to capture as much return on the ping as you can. The sonar has to receive its signal amidst a multitude of interfering objects like boat turbulence from an outboard, waves, water density, sediment stirred up, other objects in the water reflecting noise, and other units on "pinging" in the same area.

It's a wonder we can see anything at all on our graphs. So I'm all about clearing up my picture when on the water so I'm not missing anything when I'm hunting fish, whatever the species.


The first thing I do to my sonar settings is set the range for the depth I'm fishing. The graph can change up and down automatically as you change depths. But if I'm only concerned about bass shallower than 40 feet and I'm fishing in 25 feet of water. I want to see the bottom but I want the full screen focused on the area I'm fishing. I don't always trust my graph to give me the full picture. Sometimes it will set it automatically to 60 feet even though I'm fishing in 30 feet. So I just manually set it to 40 and I'm rock solid fishing in depth.

Next I will bump up the sensitivity. It's probably set to Auto by default but you can manually set it to whatever level you want. To me there is no magic number. I start around 75% and work up from there. I will go up and down and watch my screen as I do to see if I'm suddenly seeing baitfish I was missing or bass or cover or if I'm just getting a lot of noise on my screen. When I find that happy medium I will go with that for a while. Different fisheries or times of the year might require different sensitivity settings.

On my Lowrance Unit I have the option to also adjust the colorline. The color line can tell you a lot about how dense something is that you're seeing on your sonar. Again I start by moving the colorline slider up and down until  I think I am getting the clearest picture. I want to be able to see those yellow-bellied bass easily on my graph.

After I'm getting a good picture with sensitivity and colorline, I will then make sure I've only got one transducer pinging at a time in my boat. I have two units in my boat. When I pull my trolling motor. I punch the stop sonar quick key on my HDS 8. For two reasons. I don't want my transducer pinging into outer space as I run to my next spot because the transducer sometimes has a hard time locking back onto the bottom when I drop the trolling motor at the next location. By stopping and starting my ping on the transducer, it locks on immediately and I can start fishing instantly without being frustrated waiting for the sonar to figure out again that it's in the water.

The other thing I do as I move to the front deck to fish is reach down and punch the Power button on the console unit and click the Standby option. That standby option turns the back graph off without turning it off. Basically it shuts down the transducers without powering down the unit. So you can quickly get scanning again at the touch of a button but you won't have all the noise that can be caused by two graphs pinging in the same small area. The clutter is amazing as you can see in this picture.


The last thing I will do is set my noise rejection and surface clarity settings. The fact of the matter for me is I'm not looking for individual fish in 2 feet of water. So I really don't care what's immediately under the surface. I will set my noise rejection to low and surface clarity to low. And I end up getting a very clear picture when I'm fishing. I can see my lures when I drop them right under the transducer. I can watch fish literally react to my lures on the screen and work a cat and mouse game on the graph until the fish bites.

Lots of good anglers successfully vertically fish much like one would ice fishing except they do it from the bow of their boat. Having a clear picture is the key. You spent a bunch of money for tools to help you find the fish, so you owe it to yourself to get the most out of them. And remember there is no one right setting. You need to continually change your settings to get the best picture as you move from deep to shallow or change areas where more clutter may be prominent or you're getting harder or softer returns.







































Jason's 2012 Bass Fishing Wishlist

  
  
  
  
  
  
Jasons Wishlist 2012



Wishing, wanting, lusting – whatever we call our desire for new fishing tackle, it definitely comes to a head this time of year. Of course it's closing in on Christmas, but as I get older the holiday is more about eating and family time and watching my son open new presents and light up with the joy of a child on Christmas morning.

But for fishing tackle this is the time of year when all that new stuff we saw back in July becomes available to those of us who've been dying to get our hands on it. We're fortunate at Wired2fish to be the first to use a lot of the new products, sometimes before they are released at major events like ICAST and the Bassmaster Classic. It has quelled my anticipation but led me to realize we have a duty to give our take on some of our favorite new tackle this time of year.

Maybe you are letting folks know what to get you, maybe you're looking for your significant other who loves fishing and you don't know what to get them. So we all put our heads together and came up with more than 30 items that we think folks will enjoy adding to their fishing next season. These are some of my favorites for the 2012-2013 fishing seasons.  More of Walker's and Terry's favorites will be coming in the next several days.


Minn Kota Talon, $1,449

To be perfectly honest, I was a bit skeptical about the shallow water anchoring systems until I got them and used them for a season. But now, while I'm sure I can live without them, I don't want to. They have served so many purposes this year, from launching a boat alone, to flipping and even fishing shallow areas at night. It's an invaluable tool now and has made me so much more efficient. It's a high priced item that really aids your ability to deal with things like wind and pressure. I'll have a full blog on what I learned from the Talon this year in the next month. But for now, I can say I love its easy install, easy programming and operation. There's no hydraulics to worry with and the grey poles on the back of the boat have been the hot conversation piece for me at local gas stations.


Lowrance HDS Touch, from $1,299

The new Lowrance depth finders appeal to the "techno-geek" in me. They operate more like a tablet or smart phone with intuitive layouts and menus. The screen eases strain on your eyes, even in direct sunlight. I love the easier rigging with the units, with a direct connect from the Structure Scan transducer and Ethernet networking. They look great, work well and for someone who spends long days staring at a graph, they are just a joy to use.


Abu Garcia Revo 3rd Generation Baitcasting Reels, from $129

We got our first few Gen. 3 Revo reels from Abu Garcia back in the spring, and we were so excited after the first outing, we couldn't wait to start talking about them. The reels are lighter, lower profile, cosmetically appealing and cast as far and as smooth as any reels we've ever used. They offer blazing speeds up to 8:1 gear ratios and the same low-end power from their 5.4:1 models. From styling to functionality, these are truly some of the best reels we've ever used.


Denali Terry Bolton Offshore Worm and Jig Rod, $209

I reviewed this rod earlier in the year, but can say it's been a staple in my rod collection all season.  The rod works for pitching docks equally as well as it does casting big worms offshore or hopping spoons for deep bass. It's listed as a heavy action but fishes more like a medium heavy with some power on a long, deep hookset. At 7-feet, 2-inches, it gives you a good casting rod, easy to fish rod and powerful fighting rod for all your "away-from-the-bank" needs.


13 Fishing Omen Baitcasting Rod, $99

13 Fishing impressed us with their introduction at the 2012 ICAST show in Orlando. From the way they talked about their products and fishing to their "design and manufacture everything" mentality, they show a unique insight to building quality tackle. Their Envy rods are amazing great rods, but we're equally impressed with their $100 offering, the Omen series. These rods feature great styling, a small frame Japanese high modulus blank, custom made components like a split grip that allows you to touch the rod blank with the tip of your finger. Their styling and quality will make this rod very popular among anglers in 2013.


Megabass Ito Vision 110 FX or FX Knuckle 60 , $27

We thought Megabass did a good job of making some lures more practical to the situations anglers face. Two of those baits that debuted at ICAST really proved their forward thinking in designing tackle. The Ito Vision 100 FX expanded on their weight-transfer system that already helped make their slender and lively jerkbaits cast better in windy conditions by adding a collapsing bill that greatly reduces a jerkbait's tendency to helicopter on the lip's turbulence in the wind. 

Meanwhile the Knuckle 60 gives you a square bill and sub-surface crankbait for fishing over the top of shallow grass in one. With a lip that locks in place in two positions you can fish 2-4 feet deep or just 1 foot deep with the snap of the lip. The bait has a great casting weight, hunts and tracks well and swims well over and through cover. The colors are the same great Megabass colors anglers have come to demand.


Browning MPACT Zeiss Fishing Collection Sunglasses, $179

I've been wearing these shades most of the year while fishing. They are light, comfortable and fairly stylish. But the real draw is in their Zeiss optics and Ripel water and grime protection that is built into the lenses. The lenses stay clear even in a down pour and they are easily cleaned with a wipe to keep your vision under the water at maximum potential. Their Back Country lens is the best early morning low-light lens we've used to date. We know several pros who were using these in those sight fishing slugfests to finish in the top of the pack by finding more beds in practice than their competitors. A great set of glasses for an avid angler.


TH Marine G-Force Handle, $30

This would make a great present for any angler that owns a boat and trolling motor. As a guy who has literally been flung out of a boat when a trolling motor cord snapped, I can tell you I have a new found love for this seemingly simple gadget. I'm an angler who moves a lot because I know fish generally bite when you put a bait near them. So I try to hit as much water in a day as I can. That's a lot of lifting and dropping of the trolling motor. This cable reduces the effort, makes snug or worn trolling motors pop in and out of place so much better.


Strike King KVD Jerkbait, $9

I'm always on the lookout for jerkbaits that look a little different, act a little different, but perform very well in terms of casting and erratic dancing on slack-line twitch. Jerkbaits tend to have a narrow window of opportunity in an angler's strategy, but for $9, you're going to want to have a few of these in your jerkbait box this winter. They have great colors, two different sizes, they get down well and suspend well and dart lively. They sound good and look good and that's reason enough to own a few to me.


Rapala DT Custom Ink Crankbaits, $7

Generally "new colors" in lures don't thrill us much as anglers. But sometimes a new color or set of colors comes out that really produces and it's hard not to get on the new color band wagon. The DT line of crankbaits have been a staple. The DT 6 is a coldwater killer and the DT 10 is the perfect mid-range crankbait while the DT 16 and 20 catch a lot of deep bass on offshore structure. Now with the new Ike's Custom Ink colors producing so well, our confidence has increased with this crankbait line. The blueback herring and Smash colors have fooled a bunch of bass this year for me and I'll be getting a bunch more in the different sizes of these two colors.


Zoom WEC E2, $20

It was tough to review this crankbait because it's one of those baits to keep under wraps but it's just too good not to share. It's a wide wobbling, hunting lure that can wreck the bass around shallow wood cover. And as a little side note, the smallmouth hate this crankbait. Each bait is hand assembled, hand painted, clear coated and packaged. They are not readily available everywhere so that sort of adds to my confidence with the cranks when I find a shallow cranking bite.


Heddon Chug'n Spook, $7

This bait remained hush-hush though the fall topwater bite, but several anglers revealed the power of the new Heddon Chug'n Spook as something "the bass hadn't seen before." It's big, makes a big commotion, loud, casts a country mile and comes in great colors. The hooks are cheap and need to be replaced, but the bait is solid for a little less than $7. Folks underestimate the power of a big walking lure. If you don't have one in your box, this is a good one to start.


Lazer Trokar EWG Treble TK310, $7

Trokar brought a new sharpness to fishing hooks and now they've brought it to treble hooks. Not to say they are the sharpest but they are a new sharp. They've made it vogue to pressure set on fish and this type of edge on a fishing hook makes more sense to me on a treble hook. The price will be inhibitive to some anglers, but I can tell you a handful of my favorite baits are rocking the new EWG and short-shank hooks from Lazer Trokar.

Stay tuned to Wired2fish.com for more Wishlists from other staff members in the next few days.
















































































How to Use Sonar to Find Hard Bottoms

  
  
  
  
  
  
hard bottom road bed screen shot explained

A couple quick tweaks and knowing what you're seeing on your fish finder will yield better results

By Jason Sealock

We're making an effort to help folks get their money's worth on their fish finders. Knowing how to use sonar or side imaging can make you not only a more efficient angler but a more diverse angler. When you know how to use a fish finder to find not just hard bottoms but also forage and ultimately schools of fish you can spend your time honing your presentation and technique and less time searching aimlessly for bass, not know which lures and presentations will trigger a strike on that day.

Most anglers who fish from a boat have some sort of sonar, so we'll start there. On a typical sonar, the thicker the return on the bottom, the more dense the bottom is. Take a Lowrance HDS 10 for example. When you see a hard bottom like gravel, chunk rock or shell beds, that bottom will be thick and yellow. Whereas when you pass over a softer muddier bottom, the bottom will seem more translucent or darker red or blue.

If you're not seeing the contrasts like you think you should, you probably just need to adjust your sensitivity up or down. On my unit, I run my sensitivity up in the 70s, but I turn my noise rejection to low and my surface clarity to medium. For most of my use with sonar, I don't really ever try to see the fish in the top 1 or 2 feet of my water column. I'm looking for the right looking bottom with forage or fish nearby.

One of my favorite hard bottom characteristics to find is an flooded roadbed. Now often the road isn't well defined after years of erosion and soil placement on the road. But with your sonar setup to detect those contrasts in bottom, you can still see the hard bottom structure even if it has been silted over from floods and such. Usually the roadbed will be associated with some sort of rise on your screen as well and some of the best ones I've found even have chunk rip rap along them.


In the fall and again in the prespawn and post spawn periods, roadbeds can be bass and bait magnets. So I always like to find one if I'm looking for bass in an area. But a roadbed isn't the only hard bottom that can be good. Shell beds have gained popularity with offshore fishermen over the years, although I find it humorous how many folks think they found a shell bed just because their jig is dragging through some rough gravel or chunk rock. There is a distinguishable "grabbiness" to a bed of shells and you'll often pull them up either clamped on your line or snagged on a crankbait treble hook.

Some believe the bass are there for the shells. They are there for the clean hard bottom that attracts baitfish more readily. When current is pushed over them, it makes a buffet table for the bass.  

Finding a hard bottom might take time scanning. I often pass over hard bottoms while idling around in creeks and bays on a major reservoir. I will the expand my search outward looking for key spots on a hard bottom area. Maybe there is a small pile of rocks, or a creek channel swing or cover on one part of the hard bottom that will make it the key spot in the area. When I find one hard bottom area, I will split my screen on my Lowrance HDS Gen 2 and search with sonar, down and side scan screens. Often I can use the side scan to tell me at what angle the road winds and then use the sonar to see the sharpest edges along the road or other objects, like brush, culverts, foundations and more.

As you can see from these screen shots, hard bottoms will stand out on your fish finder once you know how to use sonar and side scan together. A few tweaks to sensitivity, noise rejection, and surface clutter can give you a good read of what's below. The shallower you are the more you will turn your sensitivity down on side and down scan. The deeper you are looking on your fish finder, the more sensitivity you must have.


Notice on this screen shot, we passed over a subtle roadbed. To the side of it was a small stake bed. The baitfish were positioned between the stake bed and the road. The fish however if you look closely were in the stake bed. We cranked a square bill over the top of the stakes and road a few times and as luck would have it, we caught a crappie. The more you make mental notes, then stop and fish what you see the more you will learn about
how to use sonar and side scanning technologies and put together better fish catches.





























In-depth with New Lowrance HDS Gen 2 Touch Finders

  
  
  
  
  
  
Lowrance HDS Gen 2 Touch Menu Screen


Lowrance unveiled the latest iteration of the their popular HDS Fishfinder / Chartplotters yesterday. The new Lowrance HDS Gen 2 Touch had lots of gear heads like us "oohing and awing." Todd Hammill and Scott Glorvigen have in fact had the units in house for a couple months now testing and filming for Wired2fish TV. Lowrance Dealer Service and New Product Validator, Chris Meyer has had the units since June and spent some time with us yesterday going over the features he's come to love on the new units.

"The Touch Screen units have been a 2-year project," Meyer said. "There were a lot of things we wanted to incorporate into these units that would be great improvements over anything else out there. These things work when wet; they work when it's freezing cold; finger prints don't affect the viewing; they're perfectly viewable in bright sunlight, with sunglasses on; it doesn’t matter. I have yet to find one thing I don't like about the units, and I see a lot of units."


Probably the most endearing attribute of the new Gen 2 Touch units will be their ease of use. The fact is we live in a smart phone tablet era, where when we get cluttered or confused, we simply hit our home key to take us back to the main menu again. The way we move around on our smart phones will translate intuitively on these new units. Touch the screen hold down and drag things into place, stretch and zoom, draw boxes to highlight areas, swap screens around, and more will be much simpler now with the Gen 2 Touch units from Lowrance.

One of the first things to note about the units is structure scan is built into the units. That means you just connect your transducer right into the back of the unit and you're scanning the lake floor at a touch.  It's going to make upgrading easy for a lot of guys, connectivity easier for a lot of folks and choices easier for a lot of folks.

There is a lot of automation built into these units too. The displays are some of the clearest we've ever seen. Their is some built in automation as well like auto contrast. Those of you that scan a lot with Structure Scan know that as you scan deeper you have to bump up the contrast, but then as you come shallower your screen gets blown out so you have to back the contrast way off. Now the units detect that blowout and auto contrast for you. Couple that with its auto speed sensing ping and you're going to get the best tweaks to your units automatically so you're always getting the best picture in your Down and Side Scans.


The units come with their 4-way sonar and popular Track Back Feature so you can back up your viewing and drop waypoints on items you see on your scanning or using sonar. Then new features like exporting regions is going to be very handy for organizing files and such if you fish a lot of different bodies of water. With this function you can draw a box around the area you want to save and then export just the waypoints, trails and such in that region to a file set. So if you fish a body of water, you can mark your spots and save your waypoints and trails for just that body of water.

The form factor of the units change to a more wide display. They removed most of the key pads allowing for a wider viewing pane with the same hardware footprint. What you're getting with the HDS Gen 2 Touch 12-inch unit is the largest screen Lowrance has ever made with the best viewing ability you've ever had.


Because of this wide footprint, you have some more options for screen splits like three screens split into three equal vertical panes or two stacked on one side with a full pane on the other side. Sizing is as simple as two button clicks and then just drag your lines into place. The ease of use for configuring your units is the best we've ever seen.

The price points seem high until you compare them to current offerings. Because you have to buy Gen2 HDS units currently separate from LSS2 Structure Scan boxes there is an added cost there. But now you can buy these new units, like the HDS Gen2 Touch 7 with the whole kit, structure scan ready out of the box for basically $200 more than you would pay for a Gen2 7 and Structure Scan now.  



The 9-inch and 12-inch HDS Touch models are going to have dual Ethernet ports, NMMA port, Power/video port, Structure Scan transducer direct port, and Built-in Broadband Sonar port. From that you could run an Ethernet cable to your front HDS Gen2 Keypad unit and network them together. So upgrades are going to be slick with a lot less components like expansion routers.  The HDS 7 Gen 2 Touch will only have one Ethernet port and no video capability.

The video capability will be slick for folks that have underwater cameras and clear water. You can hook your camera from its video output into an adapter cable that feeds into the power on the back of the unit and port video right into your unit.


All in all, we're very intrigued and excited with these units. The ease of use, improved waterproof design, better viewing in all light conditions, especially direct sunlight, auto correcting functions, and quick installation and networking are going to make these units a welcomed addition to savvy anglers fishing boats. We live and die on the water with our electronics and all the technology that is assembled in these news units enhances the search process greatly.

For more about the new Gen 2 Touch units from Lowrance, visit their new and improved website at Lowrance.com.








































Fishing Technology | Introduction to Finding Bass with Sonar, Imaging

  
  
  
  
  
  
lowrance hds gen2 screenshot




Understanding Sonar, Side and Down Scan will improve your fishing


By Jason Sealock

Technology changes yearly, monthly, weekly, daily it seems in today's society. The changes range from making dinner a little easier to treating cancer with advanced scanning and dissecting technologies. Technology in fishing seems to be a hot button topic. Absolutely you can catch bass without a single piece of electronics technology in your fishing boat. But put yourself on a 100,000 acre reservoir and breaking down a new body of water can feel more like finding a needle in a stack of needles.

Those of us that grew up using flashers have forced ourselves to interpret what a ring of pulsing light means in terms of fish, cover and forage around us. Then as paper charters came into popularity, it was cool to be able to draw contours on to a roll of scrolling paper. Next entered the liquid crystal displays and we again had to learn that a fish was a shallow tapering arch or saucer on the screen. Moving active fish under a stationary boat were spaghetti lines on the screen.

Now we truly live in the golden age of depth finding technologies. We have available to us side imaging and down imaging technologies, HD sonar that can actually look into cover and see fish. Yet with all this technology available to us, the most requested topic I get from anglers involves interpreting what they see on their sonar, or Down Scan or Side Scan imaging.

We're going to work on sharing some cool screen shots and then walking through what's there. No it's not going to be a bunch of underwater things that never hold fish. It's going to usually be fish, forage and the cover the fish are relating to during different seasons. The goal will be to provide anglers with the knowledge to be confident when they scan over something that they are seeing what they think they are.



This is the first screen from my Lowrance HDS 8 Gen2 Unit. Now folks will look at this and say they see the bass. It's a little easier to say that when someone shows you a screen knowing they are going to show you fish. But when you encounter this on the lake you're looking for the position of the fish on the screen as well the marks and arches .

Let's start however with orientation on the three screens. It's important to note where your boat is on each of the three screens technologies. We've place a red triangle in each pane. That is the current location of your boat on each screen. Always.

The left pane is side imaging. The boat is orientated at the top middle. Now anglers often mistakenly think when they set their side scan area to 40 feet they are scanning out 40 feet to either side. No not really. You'll notice our depth is around 23 feet. On the ranges on either side the bottom starts being drawn at 23 feet. What you are seeing is directly below the boat on the left and on the right. Then from there it starts scanning out. So really it is scanning out to the "side" roughly 17 feet. The depth alters how far "out to the side" it images. Because it has to look down and then out.

The other thing folks don't realize is by setting your side scan to a large range, say 100 feet, you're looking for cover or structure because the bass will be too small, mere specs of sand on the screen.  I like to set my range outward about 30-50 feet depending on how deep I'm fishing or looking for schools of bass because I am often looking for the actual fish. Unless I'm looking through open expanses of water searching for isolated pieces of large cover.

In this screen, we see a school of bass hunkered down around the bottom in 23 feet of water on all three screens. I placed 3 circles on the exact same group of fish in each window. Again it's about perspective.

On the right side I have it split showing down scan and sonar together. One thing to note, and why I often switch to the three screen mode when I'm searching, the side scan screen shows me roughly 28 catchable bass. The sonar shows me about half that. What you often get with side imaging and down imaging is better separation and less masking. Sonar looks downward in a conical spectrum while side imaging and down imaging to a degree look down and outward more as a sheet fed scan, so the way they interpret will be vastly different.

Then as I stop to fish, I often go to straight sonar or sonar and GPS split screen. That's because Structure Scan needs the boat moving to paint an accurate picture. On the Lowrance units, it actually matches the speed of the scan to the speed of the boat. If you go to slow you get elongated distortion. So I often scan at roughly 4-6 mph.

When I'm not moving, sonar will just constantly echo returns and what you see is a continuous line as it re-pings the same object over and over but the screen is scrolling so the result is a line moving up and down or multiple lines moving up and down instead of a single dot as you pass over quickly with side scan.

Now back to the orientation aspect. Yes I've caught a lot of bass suspending, but I've caught way more bass that are relating to the bottom or some form of cover. In this picture it's also good to note the bottom hardness. The Down Scan illustrates a hard bottom.

As you pass from a soft bottom to a hard bottom on side and down scans, the bottom will get much brighter (i.e. a stronger return). Bass in deep water like hard bottoms.  When you mark fish positioned on a hard bottom in deep water and they are orientated horizontally along the hard bottom, they are often bass. I don't like to see short clumps of fish stacked up tall on the screen. Typically that is what white bass, yellow bass, crappie, even species like drum do.

Bass when they are actively corralling bait fish on the bottom will position more horizontally along the bottom over a long space, rather than straight up and down in a small space.

Now size can tip you off to what is on the screen too. IF those arches were larger and appeared almost "hairy" on the screen, they are generally rough fish. For some reason, the denser the fish (or harder the scales like on rough fish) the return almost looks like an arch or spot with hair draping off it. Also notice how much a foot would be if the dark space on the side scan screen on the left has 23 feet in it on either side of center. So I've come to realize when I see fish of this size at this 40 foot scale in 20 feet of water, I know they are bass.

Perspective is everything when looking at electronics. If the fish seem too large on a small scale, they probably aren't what you're looking for. If they are stacked up tall, again they may not be what you are looking for. But when you see them orientated along the bottom, you're going to figure out a lot quicker what's going on down there under and out to the side of your boat.

We'll work more on sonar, some of the settings to help you get the most out of your units in our next installment of Fishing Technology and feel free to send us suggestions on what you want to see.

If you liked this, you'll probably like these two articles on finding and catching suspending fish with sonar and imaging:

Bridging the Gap on Suspended Bass Part One

Fishing Suspended Bass Around Cover Part Two

And this video:

How to Read Your Electronics






























































Deep Summer Bass Strategies with Mark Rose

  
  
  
  
  
  

4 baits will give you better chances of boating hot-water bass

Single Swimbait Fishing for Suspended Bass

  
  
  
  
  
  
Learn the secrets to catching big bass on hollow bodied swimbaits

Justin Lucas shares his secrets to catching suspended bass on hollow-bodied swimbaits

Bridging the Gap on Suspended Bass - Part One

  
  
  
  
  
  
sonar suspended bass

Tips on fishing for bass suspended around vertical cover like bridges, dock pilings, and trees

Video game fishing. That's the phrase I hear a lot when guys are watching bass on their depth finder suspended around cover and then lowering a bait into their strike zone, watching them come up to eat it and then reeling them in and the whole process is recorded pixel by pixel on the screen of today's modern fishing electronics.

Truth be told, it feels like playing a video game at times, save for better graphics and sound effects. Because of my background in technology and well boyish love of video games, fishing for suspending bass with my electronics really appealed to me the first time I watched guide Rick La Point catch a bass he saw on his screen on Table Rock a decade ago. I had dabbled with it with shaky heads on Beaver Lake some and was recommended I go see Rick do it.

I imagine for me it was like a lot of guys still feel now about their electronics. What the heck am I actually looking at? We'll cover not only how to fish for suspended bass but we'll begin by discussing how sonar works and then dissect screens to illustrate what appears on a graph so everyone can have fun with some video game fishing.

I will preface this by saying I've owned and fished with Garmin, Pinpoint, Lowrance, Humminbird and now back to Lowrance. They all have great features, and most have good sonar capabilities. I run Lowrance HDS 10 and 8 Gen 2 units. I'm very comfortable with the options, menus and more. That's really key. Pick a graph that offers good quality and get familiar with every single option on it and what it does. I don't set my graphs one time and never adjust them again. I'm constantly changing my sensitivity or my scanning range or my contrast and color lines. That just takes time and personal preference to figure out.

Understanding Sonar

The first thing is to understand how your electronics display. We'll start with the most common which is sonar. Most of us that have lived through the various iterations of electronics had flashers, the liquid crystal sonars, then side scanning, now down scanning and I guess we're moving into outward scanning, 3d overlay structure mapping and more. But about every graph you buy will have the basic sonar options.

Whether you use Humminbird, Lowrance, Garmin or another brand, the first thing you do is turn the Fish ID stuff off. That is an interpretation of signals and not always an actual fish. A cluster of baitfish densely grouped  will return a large fish icon. So turn all that interpretation off and learn to interpret what is really there.  The first thing you need to understand after that is that everything is moving. A fish is not a beautiful perfect fish shaped object on the screen. The boat is moving, the fish are often moving (which is a good thing on suspended fish), and objects in the water can be moving along with the water itself.

That means you need to be able to read lines. The sonar transducer is a fixed object on the bottom or inside of your boat. It passes over something and pings back an echo to the unit. If something is dense or larger it may ping back in multiple colors. The color changes on your graph typically indicate larger fish or objects.

But as the transducer pans over the top of a fish he's going to see a small head, big body and small tail. So what happens is the sonar draws a small line that increasingly gets larger then tapers back off to a small line again. These have come to be known as the "arches" that represent a suspended stationary fish.

In contrast, if you see a solid line that continuously is being drawn as the boat moves, that often is a fish moving in sequence under the transducer or you're simply not moving and neither is the fish. The sonar is pinging and painting what it sees from right to left on the screen. So if it keeps pinging something it keeps drawing it on the screen. The return you see is a solid line.

Hopefully, you understand passing over a stationary object and passing over an object that is moving or sitting still over an object that is also still.

These are simple keys to understanding when you see fish on your graph. Now if you turn up the sensitivity on your graph and drop something that has some mass, because a lure has to have mass for it to return a ping of any size, you will see a line as it is continuously painted by the sonar processor. It doesn't have to be large. It has to be dense. A drop shot shows up a lot better than a balsa crankbait on the graph because of the drop-shot weight, especially if the weight is tungsten.

A Real World Example


So that's some basic understanding of how the graph reads. You can find more basic instructions here. Take this example screen shot from last week on a clear water highland reservoir where the spots were suspending 18-35 feet deep.  In this screen shot those red/blue streaks on the screen are bass. Four or five of them were up about 18 feet in the water column. We had a drop shot below them but they weren't reacting to it. So we brought the drop shot up then lowered it back down. More fish got right under the transducer on the trolling motor where we had the drop shot worm lowered. We shook it high, then lowered it again. Then we brought it back up.

We're basically taunting the bass with the worm and seeing if we can get one to chase. What finally happened was one bass got locked on the bait around the sinker, then slid up and took the worm, and we started reeling him up. The thing to keep in mind with sonar is what is happening right this millisecond is on the far right. What happened the furthest back in the past is on the far left because the screen is constantly pinging and painting what it sees from right to left. But what you are left with is almost a paper chart of what transpired.

Keep Your Distance

One thing I will back up and say about catching suspending bass in clear water is that distance is critical. Not only can it be critical but often relative. Time and time again I've found that deeper suspended bass are easier to catch than shallower suspended bass when you're talking about dropping a bait straight down on them. Several anglers probably have their own rules here but mine is 20 feet. If bass are suspended less than 20 feet down, I don't drop straight on them. I don't know if it's the shadow of the boat, the fact they can see the boat so well or what, but it seems like the fish are twice as hard to catch straight down in 10 feet of water than they are in 25 feet of water.

So how do you fish for them when they are shallower? There are lots of ways, but the key is to see they are aggressive. I can often gauge this by how they look on my HDS unit. If I see lines interleaving like strands of spaghetti, that tells me these fish are actively moving and chasing. If I drop a bait down to them, do they come up to meet the bait or follow it when it goes past them? If so, these are catchable bass. Now it's just a matter of presentation.

I catch a lot of bass like this casting a light drop shot maybe 1/8 ounce and letting it fall slow. I also catch a bunch hopping a spoon high. But probably my favorite way to catch these fish is with a swimbait on a jighead or a fish head spin with a small swimbait.  There's just something about winding a swimbait painstakingly slow only to have the reel lock up on you and feel a fish thrashing its head on the other end.


Again that's the rule but there are always exceptions. Take this screen shot for example. I saw on my graph starting on the far left and working towards the right, a school of bass down about 25 feet deep. Then I saw some bait come into the mix. As I was getting ready to drop my spoon down to the deep fish, all the sudden several bass appeared just 10 or 15 feet down. I dropped on them and before I could engage the reel, the spoon stopped falling. I hollered for my son to reel up his drop shot and drop on them too. Next thing we know, we're doubled up on fish not even 15 feet down.  That's often the case with these suspending pods of bass. Get one fired and the others fire easily too.


To Be Continued ...

That's part one of this feature. In part two, we talked with FLW Pro Brett Hite who has mastered deep drop shots and catching suspended bass out in his western Arizona lakes. He'll shed more light on the techniques used to catch suspending bass and how targets them with his electronics.




















































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