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Fishing Stick Worms for Bass in the Spring

  
  
  
  
  
  
dinger bass jumping fight




By Walker Smith


Stick worms for bass are widely regarded as one of the most simple, yet effective ways to catch more fish. In a time where many soft plastic baits look more like spaceships than bass cuisine, sometimes keeping your bait selection simple can pay big dividends.

Throughout the spring, it’s not uncommon to see Yum pro Matt Reed and Keystone Light pro Brent Ehrler ditch the appendages and opt for the simple, subtle profile of a stick worm. It’s almost impossible to fish a stick worm incorrectly, but Reed and Ehrler have keyed in on a few simple, yet very useful tips.

Throw it early and often

   Photo courtesy of FishPAA.com
 
When the water temperature is in the 55-degree range, Reed instinctively reaches for his favorite stick worm, the Yum F2 Dinger. Although many anglers utilize stick worms solely on light or weightless Texas rigs, he takes a different approach in the early spring.

“Carolina rigging an F2 Dinger on deep points is one of the best ways to catch those sluggish, prespawn bass,” Reed said. “When the water temperature is cold, you always want a very subtle bait without a lot of action. I’ve had some awesome days doing this.”

Ehrler prefers to disregard the water temperature and throw his go-to stick worm, a Gary Yamamoto 5-inch Senko, based only on environmental cues. He’s noticed one important clue that serves as a dead-giveaway for a hot stick worm bite.

“It doesn’t matter what the water temperature is because every lake is different,” Ehrler said. “However, whenever I see fish cruising the shallows, they will, without question, eat a Senko. If the water is wet and bass live in it, you’ll catch them on a Senko.”
 
A versatile tool for spawning bass

As prespawn bass make their way into spawning coves, Reed uses a small Texas rig to catch roaming bass. He jokingly blames his lack of patience as the primary need for a bullet weight.

“I just don’t like to fish very slow, so I tend to use a 1/16 or 1/8-ounce bullet weight when I’m bed fishing or just covering flats looking for spawners,” Reed said. “You’d think it would hurt your number of bites, but I catch plenty of good fish on it and I can also fish it quicker.”

Both Ehrler and Reed are big believers in “long lining” for spawning bass—a technique in which they locate a bass bed, return at a later time and make very long casts to it with a weightless stick worm. They have fooled countless big bass using this technique.


“If you can make that long cast past the bed before the fish sees you, they will almost always bite on the very first cast,” Ehrler said. “You can land your cast a couple feet to the side of the bed and they’ll actually leave the bed and eat it. It’s crazy how they’ll eat that thing.”

Cover water for cruising post-spawners

It’s a common occurrence to see big, post-spawn bass cruising the shallows. Whether they’re hunting bluegill beds or capitalizing on a recent mayfly hatch, these fish are some of the toughest to catch. To intercept these gypsy bass, Ehrler uses a weightless, Texas-rigged 5-inch Senko as a search bait.

“Again, the biggest key to this technique is making an ultra-long cast,” Ehrler said. “After a long cast, I simply let it free-fall to the bottom, pop it twice and do it all over again. I’m more worried about the initial fall, because that’s how you’ll get 90 percent of your bites.”

Although Reed prefers to target cast a stick worm for post-spawn bass, he echoes Ehrler’s sentiments regarding the importance of the initial fall. He doesn’t leave it in one place too long.

   Photo courtesy of FishPAA.com

“I get almost all of my bites on the initial fall when I’m flipping an F2 Dinger to cover,” Reed said. “The only time I try to cover water with a stick worm is when I’m fishing long grass lines. Even then, I’ll twitch it a couple times and keep making casts.”

Wacky rig it for a totally different look


Docks and pontoon boats mean one thing for Ehrler—a wacky rigged stick worm. While he uses a weightless Texas rig to cover water, he puts his wacky rig and spinning gear to work when he’s making quick casts to precise cover.

“You’ll get a lot more action rigging the Senko wacky style,” Ehrler said. “It will fall slower which may require more patience for the angler, but the slow fall will make bass swim from further away to bite it. Any time you need to skip a stick worm into a small area, a wacky rig is the way to go.”

Reed also wacky rigs his F2 Dingers in the post-spawn, but primarily around grass.

“I still don’t work my Dinger too far when it’s wacky rigged, but I’ve found it to be an outstanding choice around grass,” Reed said. “It doesn’t hang up very much and it gives those grass fish a totally different presentation that many people don’t use in those areas.”

Get creative with your presentation

There are endless ways to fish a stick worm, making experimentation essential. For instance, Reed makes good use of nail weights with his F2 Dingers.

“When I really want it to shimmy on the way down, I’ll Texas rig it an insert nail weights sideways,” Reed said. “I’ll actually use 2 or 3 nail weights to match the width of the worm, and I put them in sideways so the Dinger is still pliable.”


Ehrler has had a lot of success fishing a 5-inch Senko on a 1/8-ounce Picasso Shakedown shaky head. While many anglers prefer to Texas rig stick worms, Ehrler finds his approach more erratic on the fall.

“The stick worm will definitely ‘play’ more on a Shakedown,” Ehrler said. “As it falls, the bait and weight are essentially one piece, causing it to spiral. With traditional bullet weights, the bait just follows the weight straight down.”

Equipment suggestions

When fishing a stick worm, Reed uses a 7-foot, medium-heavy Johnny Morris Carbon Lite Casting Rod and 12 to 14-pound Bass Pro XPS Fluorocarbon. In clear water situations, he doesn’t hesitate to downsize to 8-pound test.

If Ehrler is wacky rigging a stick worm, he always opts for spinning gear due to the increased castability. He exclusively uses a 7-foot, heavy action Lucky Craft Reaction 2 Spinning Rod and an Abu Garcia Revo Premier 40 spooled with 12-pound Sunline SX1 Braided Line for the mainline with a 6-foot leader of 8-pound Sunline FC Sniper Fluorocarbon. For the business end, he opts for a 1/0 Gamakatsu Weedless Drop/Split Shot Hook.

When throwing a weightless Texas-rigged stick worm, Ehrler uses a 7-foot, medium-heavy  Lucky Craft Pitching Rod with a 7.3:1 Abu Garcia Revo STX spooled with 16-pound Sunline FC Sniper Fluorocarbon. He keeps his hook selection simple with a 4/0 Gamakatsu Offset EWG Hook.

When you hit the water this spring, experiment with these stick worm techniques and develop your own customizations, too. Whether it’s the prespawn, spawn or post-spawn, throwing a stick worm is always a safe bet.










































































Dyeing Soft Plastic Bass Lures in the Spring

  
  
  
  
  
  
dyeing plastics with dip and markers

Russ Lane adds color to his plastics for all phases of the spawn


By Walker Smith

Spring is known for excellent bass fishing, but there’s an underutilized technique that can easily turn good fishing days into outstanding ones. As anglers target the shallows in hopes of intercepting big, transitioning bass, Big Bite Baits pro Russ Lane does the same—with one minor difference. During all phases of the spawn, he’s a huge believer in dyeing soft plastic bass lures.

While many of us only reach for our bottles of dye when faced with short-striking bass, Lane has developed a solid soft plastic dyeing system that produces more bites and bigger fish.   

Prespawn

Throughout most of the country, prespawn water clarity is often limited. With abundant winter precipitation muddying many fisheries, Lane looks to a specific dye color to combat the cold, murky water.

“If I’m fishing dirty water in the 50-degree range, I put orange dye on all of my plastics,” Lane said. “More times than not, I catch prespawn fish that spit up orange and red crawfish pinchers, which tells me they’re primarily feeding on crawfish.”

Not only does Lane look for crawfish in the mouths of these bass, but he also inspects the color of their mouths. When he notices their crushers and teeth stained red or yellow, he knows it’s time to break out the orange dye.

“Whether I’m flipping and pitching a Big Bite Baits Russ Lane YoDaddy or using a Big Bite Baits Chunk, I just dip the pinchers in the dye,” Lane said. “It’s a perfect imitation of a crawfish and it gets me a ton of extra bites.”

Spawn

When the water temperature hits the 60-degree mark and the bass start to get locked onto their beds, Lane still dyes his plastics, but he opts for a different color. Although it’s a subtle change, it makes a big difference in his success.

“I use chartreuse dye on all of my plastics when I’m bed fishing,” Lane said. “Just a little bit of chartreuse on the tail helps trigger a lot of aggression from bass protecting their beds from bluegill and bream.”

While the chartreuse dye generates more aggressive strikes from bedding fish, it also aids in his ability to see the bait. Dark-colored soft plastics can be tough to see when bed fishing, but the added color helps Lane detect bites faster, resulting in more fish catches.

Post spawn

As the bass finish spawning, sunfish, such as bream and shell crackers, move into the shallows to do the very same thing. During this time period, Lane continues using chartreuse dye, but for a very different reason.

“When sunfish get on bed, their colors get really bright and their yellow tails are highly visible,” Lane said. “Female post spawn bass will often stay in the shallows to feed on them, so a Big Bite Baits WarMouth or Big Bite Baits Russ Lane Coontail Worm with a chartreuse-dyed tail fished around bluegill beds is a great way to catch some big post spawn bass.”

As spring winds down, Lane still utilizes chartreuse dye, but becomes more selective. When the bass first move to their summer dwellings, such as humps and river ledges, a Big Bites Kreit Tail Worm dipped in chartreuse works wonders for him.

“If the water clarity is less than 2 feet, I always use chartreuse dye to give the bass a better look at the bait,” Lane said. “In clear water, however, I prefer more natural colors unless there’s a lot of cloud cover.”

As you knock the dust off of your fishing gear this spring and head out to enjoy warmer temperatures and spawning bass, make sure to remember your soft plastic dye—sometimes the smallest modifications yield the biggest results.











































Choosing the Right Swimbait for Bass Umbrella Rigs

  
  
  
  
  
  
AlabamaRigFishing


Two key factors dictate Jimmy Mason’s selection of Alabama rig components

By Walker Smith

Although the excitement surrounding the Alabama Rig and subsequent rigs has largely died down in the past year, castable bass umbrella rigs remain effective fish catching tools under the right conditions. Alabama fishing guide Jimmy Mason has zeroed-in his approach to the rig over the past two years. He narrowed down bait selection to two important environmental cues:

•    Water clarity
•    Water temperature

Clear water

The most important factor to Mason’s bait selection is water clarity. In clear water, the eyesight of a bass is largely enhanced, making a proper presentation a huge factor of success. In these high visibility situations, he doesn’t get too creative when chunking an umbrella rig.

“The clearer the water is, the more I want my baits to match,” Mason said. “It’s much more natural for the bass to see a ‘school’ of matching baits, so I want to throw 5 identical baits.”

While clear water does dictate a set of matching baits, the color of these baits is equally important. Just as he would opt for more natural-colored hard baits in clear water, Mason keeps this philosophy intact when he’s on a hot rig bite.

“I’m a big believer in translucent baits in clear water,” Mason said. “One of my most productive baits in these conditions is the 3 1/2-inch Emerald Pearl-colored Yum Mud Minnow, especially on sunny days. When the sun reflects off of the green flake, it’s a dynamite combination.”


Stained water

As long as the water has at least 1 foot of visibility, Mason doesn’t hesitate to throw a bass umbrella rig. When faced with these low-visibility water conditions, he tends to get a bit more technical with his bait selection. Larger baits and brighter colors have produced some unforgettable fishing days for him in the past year.

“In dirty water, I’m going to play with my baits a lot more,” Mason said. “I love using 5-inch Yum Money Minnows in the middle of the rig because they give it a much bigger profile that displaces a lot more water. This extra visibility and water disturbance draws attention to my Yumbrella Rig a lot better than smaller baits would.”

The Tennessee River system received an insane amount of rain last year, but that didn’t stop Mason from putting his clients on monster bass. With the river continuously moving at nearly 100,000 cubic feet per second, the muddy water forced him to improvise his A-rig approach.

“The only way we could get consistent bites was by using 5-inch chartreuse grubs on the outsides,” Mason said. “I was running a full size, 5-inch Money Minnow in the middle and the 5-inch grubs on the outside of the rig in order to help the bass see the bait better. It ended up reducing our short strikes and dramatically increasing our hookup ratio.”

Water temperature

As with any bass fishing technique, water temperature is an essential element in Mason’s Alabama rig bait selection process. In water temperatures above 50-degrees, big bass won’t hesitate to attack an A-rig with 5-inch swimbaits, but when the water drops to below 45- to 50-degrees this time of year, downsizing baits can make a lot of difference.

“Whenever the water temperature gets below 50-degrees, bass become lethargic,” Mason said. “A big, bulky presentation isn’t appealing to these wary bass, and can actually spook them. This is a time where I like to use 5-inch grubs on the outside of my rig—it’s less imposing and matches small forage better.”

Umbrella rigs never ended up being the “magic baits” that some anglers thought they would be, but that doesn’t mean they won’t catch fish. Keeping a close eye on the surrounding water clarity and water temperature not only leads to smarter bait selection, but also more fish in the boat. 


To fish with Jimmy Mason, visit jimmymasonbasspro.com.













































Five for 5 | Five Reader Submitted Tackle Tweaks

  
  
  
  
  
  
TackleModification



Tackle modifications that will help you catch more fish

By Walker Smith

One of the best parts of our job is when we have the privilege of communicating with our readers. We read every email and comment from our readers and we always appreciate and enjoy your feedback. Just as we hope to keep our readers up-to-date on the latest fishing information, we often learn some pretty cool tips from our fans as well. In the past few months, several of our readers have commented on our feature pieces with their own tackle modification ideas.

Being the bass fishing addicts that we are, we’ve tried many of these ideas and have been impressed with the functionality and simplicity of them. In order to keep you “in the know”, we have compiled a list of some of our readers’ simple ideas that will help you get the most out of your fishing day.

Double split rings on jerkbaits


Try adding an extra split ring to your hook in place of a longer shank! I do this on my jerkbaits and it works just fine.
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:21 AM by Michael Clifford on Short-Shank vs. Long-Shank Treble Hooks

Not every angler has the available tackle to quickly switch from short-shank to long-shank hooks—and that’s totally fine. If you’ve ever experienced the heartache and frustration of multiple short strikes when fishing with your favorite jerkbait, you may want to consider adding an additional split ring to it.

Just as a long-shank hook allows for better hookups on a jerkbait, double split rings will serve the same purpose if you don’t have a wide selection of treble hooks to choose from. In addition to giving the bass a better opportunity to get hooked, doubling up your split rings is also a great way to alter the buoyancy of your jerkbait in different water temperatures and conditions.

Spinnerbait blade dye for hooks


Red hooks are dyed red and it doesn’t take long for the red to come off of the hook, so get a bottle of red blade dye—you can dip the hook in the dye without taking the hook off the bait.
Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 8:44 AM by Larry on When and Why to Use Red Hooks for Bass Fishing

With the right water clarity and sunlight, red hooks are a great way to get extra bites when the fishing is tough. It’s not always easy to get your hands on the right size or style of red hooks, but don’t worry—red spinnerbait blade dye makes for a very effective hook dye as well.

If you’re fighting the battle against short strikes, especially in time-sensitive situations, it’s a hassle to rummage through your terminal tackle box, untangle a big ball of sharp hooks and replace them all. Red blade dye saves a lot of time by allowing you to keep the hook on the bait and simply dip it into the dye—it’s that simple.

Don’t be concerned about the dye dulling the hook points, either. Blade dye is formulated to be extremely thin as to not alter the weight of spinnerbait blades. When you experiment with this modification, you’ll notice that the blade dye is no thicker than water.


Coffee stirrer in the tail of a Zoom Ultravibe Speed Worm


To get the paddle tail or any plastic worm tail up off the bottom, insert a thin, plastic coffee stirrer in the tail section. This creates an air pocket, raising the tail slightly off the bottom while giving the extra action often needed to entice a strike.
Posted on Friday, December 21, 2012 8:37 AM by Richard Ziert on Four Ways to Fish a Zoom Ultravibe Speed Worm

This simple tackle tweak can make a big difference on the water, especially when targeting pressured bass. As if the Ultravibe Speed Worm doesn’t make enough racket in the water, inserting a simple coffee stirrer into the tail of the worm will make it irresistible to big bass. To make it easier to insert the stirrer, simply dip it in the water to minimize any tearing.

Whether you’re fishing the UV Speed Worm weightless, Texas rigged or on a shaky head, this handy modification will get more bites. Not only does the coffee stirrer allow the tail to float when at rest, but it also creates a ton of bubbles as you drag or swim the bait in the water. Several of the best grass lake anglers have been doing this for years with consistent success.

Feathered treble hooks on walking topwaters


Great article! I also love to use walking topwater lures. I often change out the rear treble with a feathered treble hook to increase chances of a good hook up.
Posted on Friday, October 05, 2012 9:44 AM by David J. Gutierrez on Big Walking Topwaters in the Early Fall

There’s something about a feathered treble hook on the back of a topwater bait that big bass simply cannot ignore. In the fall and spring, bass see a plethora of topwater baits whizzing overhead every day and eventually become wise to them. In order to differentiate your offering from others, adding a feathered treble hook to the back of the bait can draw strikes from even the most finicky bass.

Because many bites on walking topwater baits can come while the bait is paused, feathered trebles are a great way to add a little more action to the bait while it’s at rest. As the bait sits in the water, the feathers quiver and pulsate with the movement of the water, making it a tantalizing addition to any topwater bait.

Loop knot for “walking the dog”


A Loop knot also makes “walking the dog” easier for me.
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 4:40 PM by Rollie Van Cleave on Big Walking Topwaters in the Early Fall

“Walking the dog” is an age-old technique that has caught big fish for years. Although it is possible to execute this retrieve with a generic Palomar knot, many anglers prefer a loop knot instead. Because the loop knot allows the bait to move more freely, anglers are able to perform a wide-walking presentation with the slightest twitch of the rod tip.

If you’re just learning this technique or if you’re tired of jerking your shoulder out of socket to make your favorite topwater walk, this simple tweak is a must-try in our book.

We cannot thank our readers enough for the constant support and feedback over the years. As we continue to do everything in our power to help you become better anglers, we hope that you keep the lines of communication open with more awesome tips and suggestions. Thank you for being Wired2Fish!
































































Managing Your Fishing Rod and Reel Combos

  
  
  
  
  
  
rod reel line char


Learn how to cure the headache of knowing what rod has what line on it with multiple combos

By Jason Sealock

You climb into your boat and start pulling your rods out of the rod locker for a full day of fishing. Before you know it you've got 10 rods on your deck and several that don't have the baits you want to throw today. You start cutting the baits off and digging new baits out of the box. Wait. What pound line is on this combo. Where's my 20-pound line and rod for flipping? Shoot. Which one did I put that 10-pound monofilament line on just for jerkbait fishing? Before we know it, you've slept a time or two and have forgotten what line is on which combination.

You start making wild guesses about which rod has the right line, or how old that line is or if that's actually fluoro or monofilament. It can be frustrating to break off a fish and then realize you're not throwing the bait on the combo you thought it was.

I've been at the avid (aka obsessive-compulsive) bass-fishing lifestyle for about 20 years now. In that time, as you might imagine, I've amassed a lot of tackle, including rods and reels. Keeping up with how much the line deteoriates on 25 combos and what pound test and type of line surpassed the limits of my brain capacity years ago. About two trips to the water and I've developed full-on amnesia in regards to my line and rod and reel combos. That's not a good deal for several reasons.

First, if you do have problems with a certain line type, brand or pound test, you might want to know all the rods that have that line on it and get it off there immediately. Fishing line goes bad. It's a fact. So keeping up with it is really imperative.

Second, because fishing line goes bad, anglers need to know how long line has been on a reel. Chances are if you're not a touring professional angler, you might leave your fishing line on your reel for more than a day, sometimes more than a month. So keeping up with how old the line is becomes more important.

Finally, with varying diameters from differing brands of line, it's hard to just grab fishing line and know if it's 12 pound Trilene XT monofilament or 16 pound Sunline Sniper FC fluorocarbon. So keeping up with the line on each reel helps alleviate mishaps and gives you confidence your bait is being tied to the right line for the job.



There are lots of ways to keep up with fishing line once it's spooled on a reel. Anglers can choose manufactured tags you can add to Rod Gloves that tell you the technique for that rod, and that can clue anglers as to the pound test and type line probably on the reel. There  are tags you can stick on the rods or the reels to tell you pound test and technique at a glance in a full rod locker. There are new rod bands from Sunline that can tell you what pound test is on that rod.

These are all helpful, but you still will have to keep up with when you put line on your reel.

The best solution I've found is to just make a spreadsheet. I've been using one and throwing a copy in my boat's rod locker in case I get confused about what is on which rod.

Basically, log everything from which reel to put on which rod, the gear ratio of the reels, the length and action of the rods, the size, type, brand and date spooled for each line and at times even the techniques intend for each rod, although that can change throughout the year as seasons and tendencies change.

It takes a bit to make the first time but once you have it made you can fill it in and keep up with it. I just print off a sheet without the lines filled in and then take it out in the shop and fill in the blanks as I get my combos ready for fishing.

I will sometimes go back in and type all the information in and keep it in my rod locker so at quick glance, I know exactly what rod has what line on it and can go from there as I start changing baits on a trip or span of trips.

Here is a file for you to download to get you started if you have Microsoft Excel:

Rod-Reel-Line Chart










































Short-Shank vs. Long-Shank Treble Hooks for Bass Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
CrankbaitTrebleHooks
There are specific situations to use each type of treble, according to Kevin Short

By Walker Smith

Anglers dedicate a lot of time towards finding the “perfect” hard bait. While individual preference is a big factor when choosing these baits, most fisherman look for characteristics such as castability, action, color and durability. As we scour the market for hard baits, we often overlook one of the most critical aspects of all—quality hooks.

In recent years, the fishing industry has seen a lot of breakthroughs in hook technology. Such developments have ignited several debates regarding the use of short-shank and long-shank hooks on hard baits. When it comes to treble hooks, Vicious Fishing pro Kevin Short knows his stuff, and according to him, both styles of hooks have a definite place in bass fishing.

Short-shank trebles

The introduction of short-shank treble hooks has changed the way many fisherman fish hard baits. While not ideal for sluggish bass, they can wreak havoc on big, aggressive bass. When K-Pink is targeting these bellicose bass around wood cover, he never hesitates to switch to short-shank trebles.


“Like every angler, I want to avoid hang-ups as much as possible,” Short said. “When the bass are really eating a crankbait, such as a Zoom W.E.C. around wood cover, I switch to Mustad KVD Elite 1X Short Shank Triple Grip Treble Hooks.”

Over the years, Short noticed the majority of his snags being caused by the front hook getting lodged into wood cover. In an attempt to fix the issue, he began experimenting with short-shank trebles. Because these hooks don’t hang as far off of the bait, they allow for a more compact approach while drastically decreasing the number of his hang-ups.

Even if bass aren’t blistering his bait, Short still opts for a short-shank hook on the front of his baits when fishing around heavy cover. In order to increase his chances of hooking finicky fish, he leaves a long-shank treble hook on the back of his bait.


“Long-shank hooks give the bass a little bit more hook to grab, so I just like to replace the front hook with a short-shank when the bass aren’t biting well,” Short said. “In essence, you’ve got all of your bases covered by having a snag-resistant hard bait that will still hook timid bass.”

Conversely, when Short gets on a hot bite, it’s short-shank all the way for him. Changing both hooks to short-shanks allows him to cast into some of the nastiest stuff on the lake while giving him the confidence that the bass will get hooked every single time.

Long-shank trebles

When faced with suspicious bass or thick vegetation, anglers will notice an increase in hookups when using long-shank treble hooks on hard baits. Short utilizes these hooks most frequently when fishing in the early spring.


When the water reaches the upper-40s or the low-50s, grass-related bass have the tendency to drive anglers crazy, as they are notorious for slapping at crankbaits without ever getting hooked. The way Short sees it, the more hook you’ve got hanging behind the bait, the better your chances of catching slapping bass.

“If they made an extra, extra long-shank hook, I would use it when I’m throwing lipless cranks or squarebills around grass,” Short said. “I want as much hook hanging out there as possible.”


While many anglers will change bait colors after noticing a few bass barely hanging on by the back hook, Short believes that long-shank treble hooks will most often fix the problem. If you’re still noticing some borderline hookups while using long-shank hooks, upsizing is usually the next-best option.

“The best way to eliminate back-hooked bass is by upsizing your back treble hook,” Short said. “If the back hook is a no. 4, don’t be afraid to slap a no. 2 on the back. When fish are hooked on the very back hook, a bigger long-shank treble will give you a much better chance at getting that fish in the boat.”

Even with the best hard baits in the market, knowing why and when to use long-shank hooks and short-shank hooks is an outstanding way to increase your success. If you follow Short’s guidelines and keep an open mind, not only will you get more bites, but you’ll land more fish as well.










































When and Why to Use Red Hooks for Bass Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
RedTrebleBass2

See why Marty Stone likes to add a front red treble hook to his shallow running Bandit crankbaits.

Red hooks really do have an application in bass fishing, according to Marty Stone

Photos and Article by Walker Smith

If you’re like us, you don’t have enough fingers or toes to count the number of times you’ve heard fellow anglers banter back and forth about the effectiveness, or perceived lack thereof, of red hooks. You’ll find a couple of them scattered about in random compartments of many anglers’ boats, but most of us never pay them much attention. Truth be told, I only buy red hooks when I’m in a rush to the lake and the local tackle shop is out of black hooks. Sure, they look sexy, but do fish really care what color hook you’re using?

A recent conversation with bass fishing legend Jimmy Houston has turned Vicious Fishing pro Marty Stone into a bona fide believer in red hooks. Under the right conditions, he has had some monster days with his Daiichi Bleeding Bait hooks. Recently, Stone shed some light on the colored hook conundrum and provided us with a lot of interesting food for thought.

The marketing misnomer

Remember when red fishing line was the big talk in the fishing industry? As a young teenager, I thought it was the bee’s knees, guaranteed to turn me into a pro overnight. The allure of red line was simple—the fish couldn’t see it, and when your line is virtually invisible, you’re going to catch a lot more fish.

Now, let’s look at it from an alternative perspective. While many fishing line companies were adamant that their red line was indiscernible, there were some hook companies claiming their red hooks to be the ultimate difference maker on the water.

So let’s get this straight—red line is invisible, but red hooks make bass more apt to attack a bait? At this point, it doesn’t really matter who was wrong or right. Common knowledge would lead us to believe that someone, whether it was the line companies or the hook manufacturers, had to be wrong. Not so fast, says Stone.

Seeing red

Stone got the answer he had been looking for during a recent conversation with Jimmy Houston, who had taken part in a light penetration study. His findings were interesting, to say the least.


“In water of normal stain, considered to be 12- to 24-inches of visibility, a red hook is, indeed, very visible from 5-feet or less,” said Stone. “On the contrary, anything red—whether it’s fishing line or a hook—is going to disappear in more than 5-feet of water.”

Technically, both sides are right. Since learning that red hooks are, in fact, visible from less than 5-feet away in water of normal stain, Stone has noticed a substantial increase in his shallow water fishing success.

When to use red hooks

The use of red hooks is something that is becoming increasingly popular amongst the world’s top professional anglers. While not ideal in every situation, Stone has developed some very effective techniques for exposing bass’ weakness for red.

“Any time I’m flipping shallow water with a normal stain, I almost exclusively use a red hook,” Stone said. “If you’re struggling during a tough day on the water, don’t be afraid to tie on a red hook. It may take a bit to get used to, but I truly believe that you will catch more fish.”


The use of red hooks should not be limited to just flipping and pitching, however. Stone loves chunking shallow crankbaits, which has allowed him to experiment at length with red treble hooks. While effective, It’s not always as simple as throwing on some red trebles and going to town.

“If I’m throwing a squarebill that dives less than 5-feet deep, I always replace the front hook with a red treble hook,” Stone said. “I never put red hooks on the back because I want that big bass to attack the middle of the bait, giving me a great chance at getting a really solid hookup.”


Because bass can be triggered by a subtle flash of red like gills on a fish, red trailer hooks are outstanding on bladed baits, as well. When targeting sluggish shallow fish holding tight to cover, Stone uses red trailer hooks on his spinnerbaits and buzzbaits to give the bass a little extra “something” to hone in on.

Although he has had an enormous amount of success using red hooks, Stone believes that changing hook colors makes the biggest difference on bright, sunny days.

“The cloudier the day and the lower the light, the less that red is a factor,” Stone said. “For that light penetration to do what it’s supposed to do, you need to have a sunny day in order to get the maximum benefits from red hooks.”

The next time you are having a tough day on the water or getting a lot of short-strikes on a crankbait, switch to a red hook. While it may take some time to get confidence in it, you just might crack the code and enjoy some killer fishing. All it takes is one monster bass to make you a believer.

















































Carolina Rig Tips for Cold Water Bass | Part I

  
  
  
  
  
  
Options for Carolina Rigs

As the water continues to cool, these tips will help you catch more fish.

By Walker Smith

For many of our readers, fall is nothing but a distant memory. The trees have shed their foliage and the pleasant, cool nights have quickly turned to bone-chilling mornings with no hope of fishing. As the water temperatures continue to drop and the bass’ metabolism begins to slow, fishing can get downright tough this time of year. It happens to us, too, as we often refer to it as our yearly “depression”.

While many outdoorsmen tend to store their bass boats in favor of tree stands and rutting bucks this time of year, we have salvaged many poor fishing days with the “old faithful” of fishing techniques—the Carolina rig. Although the C-rig has been around for decades, it is one of the most overlooked and misunderstood weapons of the bass fishing world. In part one of this two-part series, we discuss the importance of using quality components with this time-tested technique.

Don’t go cheap

Although many of us choose to make fishing an expensive sport, it really doesn’t have to be. While there are certainly various techniques and presentations in which concessions in quality can be made if necessary, Carolina rigging is definitely not one of them.


Perhaps the most important part of the Carolina rig is the swivel. On that very piece of equipment, the total success of the rig hinges. Poor quality barrel swivels will easily get nicked and cut when dragging the C-rig through harsh terrain such as rocks, shell beds and pea gravel. When these low-end swivels get beat up, they will cut your line like a razorblade and bind, resulting in an improper presentation. To avoid this menacing problem and land more fish, using bigger stainless steel swivels will provide the backbone of your Carolina rig with increased durability and dependability. Although a little more expensive, upgrading swivels can cure some of the heartache from lost Carolina rig fish.

A quality tungsten weight is also essential to getting the most out of your Carolina rig. Many anglers are still unsure when it comes to the benefits of tungsten, but the difference in sensitivity between tungsten and lead is unreal. A tungsten weight on a Carolina rig is about as close as you can get to crawling on your hands and knees on the bottom of the lake. For the anglers who don’t have access to high-end electronics, a tungsten-weighted Carolina rig is all that’s necessary to dissect the bottom composition of your favorite spots. Although they are more expensive than traditional lead weights, the benefits are undeniable which them worth the extra money.  


Lastly, you can’t be cheap when it comes to the quality of the hook on a Carolina rig. During the hookset, there is a lot of slack between you and the fish, which makes a razor-sharp hook an absolute necessity. The good news is, hooks aren’t too expensive, and you won’t need a box full of an enormous assortment of hooks in order to increase your success. All that’s needed is 3/0, 4/0 or 5/0 Offset EWG worm hooks. While the versatility of the Carolina rig allows anglers the ability to experiment with several different presentations and pieces of terminal tackle.

Beads

While autumn is largely known for its beautiful colors, crisp mornings and explosive bass fishing, its weather is can be extremely volatile at times. Whether it’s cold fronts, rain storms or premature winter precipitation, fall can be a tricky time of year to consistently catch bass.

Often times, this unstable weather brings about muddy water in fisheries throughout many parts of the country. Although muddy water isn’t widely considered conducive to Carolina rigging, a few small modifications can make all of the difference in the world.


The bead on a Carolina rig is meant to perform two essential tasks—to make noise, while most importantly protecting the knot. If you were to throw a Carolina rig without a bead, the weight would slam against the knot, drastically reducing your knot strength, therefore increasing your chances of losing fish. While many anglers prefer smaller beads in order to offer a more natural presentation to the bass, we tend to prefer larger beads. Larger beads shield the entire knot, giving that crucial connection between your leader and main line a better chance at standing up to more abuse. These beads don’t need to be expensive, either— most of the time your local hobby store sells them for next-to-nothing.

An added benefit of using beads on a Carolina rig is their noise making ability. As you drag the rig across rough surfaces, the bead protects the knot while emitting an awesome “clicking” sound that emulates small prey to bass. It is important to note that different types of beads have different sounds. Although there is no specific science as to when bass prefer different types of clicking sounds, we are big proponents of constant experimentation. If you’re not getting bites with a plastic bead, sometimes a metal bead will do the trick. After experimenting long enough with it, you will be able to notice small nuances of your local fish that will allow for quick and efficient bead changes.

Throughout the late fall and early winter, we have had a lot of success using two beads on our Carolina rigs. As the water gets muddier from nasty fall storms, the visibility of bass is often cut in half. With limited visibility making it harder for bass to get a good bead on your bait, the extra noise of two beads will set your C-rig far apart from others. It would sound a lot better if we had the two beads strategically placed throughout to rig to imitate some sort of specific forage, but we don’t. Stack the two beads right on top of each other for more noise throughout your retrieve. Terry has won a lot of money throughout his life using this technique.

Weights

So we’ve already talked about the importance of tungsten on a Carolina rig, but what now? Truth be told, the shape of the weight doesn’t really make much difference to the bass. Instead, it makes our lives easier and increases our efficiency when throwing the double splash rig all day long.


One of our favorite ways to fish a Carolina rig thick cover looks pretty ridiculous. In fact, if you saw it, you would probably think we were crazy. Around gnarly, rock-covered areas, turning a traditional tungsten bullet weight upside-down—with the nose facing the bait—can drastically cut down on your amount of frustration throughout your day on the water.

When the bullet weight is positioned on the Carolina rig as it would look on a Texas rig, it makes your C-rig much more prone to hang-ups in rocky cover. It is important to remember that the weight is constantly making contact with the bottom, which will cause the nose of the bullet weight to frequently lodge into rocks. If you simply turn that weight the other way around, the wide mouth of weight’s base will kick up off the rock crevices rather than sliding in between them as easily. It doesn’t look pretty, but it can allow for a few less snags.

Unless you’re targeting fish in less than 6-feet of water this late fall, your Carolina rig needs to have a 1/2-ounce weight at the very minimum. The appeal of the Carolina rig is to allow for constant contact with the bottom, and lighter weights don’t allow for the proper presentation. A heavier, 1/2-ounce weight allows the angler to throw it a lot further and detect bites better.

If you’re fishing on a windy day, or are a newcomer to the Carolina rig, throwing a 1-ounce weight can do wonders. The heavy weight decreases the amount of “wind bow” in your line, allowing much more direct access to the business end of your rig. While some anglers will have extremely specific weights for certain water depths, we prefer to keep it simple. Remember—keep a 1/2-ounce tungsten weight on your rig, and if you aren’t feeling the bottom enough, simply upsize to a 1-ounce weight.

It’s no secret that Carolina rigs can be time consuming to re-tie after numerous hang-ups throughout the day, but using the correct components will help you better utilize your fishing time and catch more fish. Stay tuned for part-two of this series, as we discuss the application of different line types and leader lengths to further your success with the C-rig.



















































How to Use Sonar to Find Hard Bottoms

  
  
  
  
  
  
hard bottom road bed screen shot explained

A couple quick tweaks and knowing what you're seeing on your fish finder will yield better results

By Jason Sealock

We're making an effort to help folks get their money's worth on their fish finders. Knowing how to use sonar or side imaging can make you not only a more efficient angler but a more diverse angler. When you know how to use a fish finder to find not just hard bottoms but also forage and ultimately schools of fish you can spend your time honing your presentation and technique and less time searching aimlessly for bass, not know which lures and presentations will trigger a strike on that day.

Most anglers who fish from a boat have some sort of sonar, so we'll start there. On a typical sonar, the thicker the return on the bottom, the more dense the bottom is. Take a Lowrance HDS 10 for example. When you see a hard bottom like gravel, chunk rock or shell beds, that bottom will be thick and yellow. Whereas when you pass over a softer muddier bottom, the bottom will seem more translucent or darker red or blue.

If you're not seeing the contrasts like you think you should, you probably just need to adjust your sensitivity up or down. On my unit, I run my sensitivity up in the 70s, but I turn my noise rejection to low and my surface clarity to medium. For most of my use with sonar, I don't really ever try to see the fish in the top 1 or 2 feet of my water column. I'm looking for the right looking bottom with forage or fish nearby.

One of my favorite hard bottom characteristics to find is an flooded roadbed. Now often the road isn't well defined after years of erosion and soil placement on the road. But with your sonar setup to detect those contrasts in bottom, you can still see the hard bottom structure even if it has been silted over from floods and such. Usually the roadbed will be associated with some sort of rise on your screen as well and some of the best ones I've found even have chunk rip rap along them.


In the fall and again in the prespawn and post spawn periods, roadbeds can be bass and bait magnets. So I always like to find one if I'm looking for bass in an area. But a roadbed isn't the only hard bottom that can be good. Shell beds have gained popularity with offshore fishermen over the years, although I find it humorous how many folks think they found a shell bed just because their jig is dragging through some rough gravel or chunk rock. There is a distinguishable "grabbiness" to a bed of shells and you'll often pull them up either clamped on your line or snagged on a crankbait treble hook.

Some believe the bass are there for the shells. They are there for the clean hard bottom that attracts baitfish more readily. When current is pushed over them, it makes a buffet table for the bass.  

Finding a hard bottom might take time scanning. I often pass over hard bottoms while idling around in creeks and bays on a major reservoir. I will the expand my search outward looking for key spots on a hard bottom area. Maybe there is a small pile of rocks, or a creek channel swing or cover on one part of the hard bottom that will make it the key spot in the area. When I find one hard bottom area, I will split my screen on my Lowrance HDS Gen 2 and search with sonar, down and side scan screens. Often I can use the side scan to tell me at what angle the road winds and then use the sonar to see the sharpest edges along the road or other objects, like brush, culverts, foundations and more.

As you can see from these screen shots, hard bottoms will stand out on your fish finder once you know how to use sonar and side scan together. A few tweaks to sensitivity, noise rejection, and surface clutter can give you a good read of what's below. The shallower you are the more you will turn your sensitivity down on side and down scan. The deeper you are looking on your fish finder, the more sensitivity you must have.


Notice on this screen shot, we passed over a subtle roadbed. To the side of it was a small stake bed. The baitfish were positioned between the stake bed and the road. The fish however if you look closely were in the stake bed. We cranked a square bill over the top of the stakes and road a few times and as luck would have it, we caught a crappie. The more you make mental notes, then stop and fish what you see the more you will learn about
how to use sonar and side scanning technologies and put together better fish catches.





























How to Sun Bake Your Crankbaits for Improved Color

  
  
  
  
  
  
Sun paint crankbaits
The Square Bill below started out the same color as the Square Bill on top!


By Jason Sealock

I fish a lot with a lot of anglers. I've seen a plethora of custom-painted crankbaits hidden in dark tackle boxes and trays or secret compartments in competitive fishing boats. We're all looking for a little edge on the fish and more importantly the other anglers pursuing the same fish.

I myself have a bunch of custom painted crankbaits, topwaters, and jerkbaits. Partly because I want a unique bait. The other part is because I have a well-documented tackle addiction, to the point of being considered for the show "Hoarders." I love to see my favorite baits with a shiny new coat.

I recently hopped in the truck with a fishing buddy, Chad Branham who fishes for Murray State and is an avid bass angler and tackle junky like me. A crankbait in his cup holder caught my eye. I could see it was a Strike King KVD Square Bill. But it had a paint job I didn't recognize. I studied it for a time. I finally had to ask," Who painted this?"

"I did," Branham said. "Well sort of."

In fact the bait was painted. Originally it was painted in the Strike King factory, the classic chartreuse and black color. But after a couple months of careful planning, he ended up with a lightly muted chartreuse shad colored crankbait. I've seen a lot of crankbaits and for some reason this one really called out to me.  It was white on the side, chartreuse on the bottom, a lighter grayish black on the top with the red throat.

So what did he do to get this paint job in a couple months? He threw the crankbait up on the dash of his truck and let it sit. About once a week he would flip it and several other chartreuse crankbaits over, so he would achieve a fairly balanced change to his bait.

I've seen guys throw plastics together to make some better looking plastics. I've even heard of guys mixing plastics with crankbaits, although you can warp or induce some unsightly mold marks on a crankbait. But the sun trick has been used by a lot of guys to make their crankbaits a little more fish friendly.

"I learned it fishing on the BFL trail," Branham said. "One of the guys I roomed with showed me some of the baits he 'sunned' and I was pretty blow away by a couple of them and how good they looked. So I started taking baits and putting them on my dash. My truck is perfect because my Ford actually has a tray on the dash. The baits sit right in it and don't move around too much. "

Not all crankbaits "bleed" their color in the sun we've found either. So you'll just have to experiment. But what you'll end up with is a crankbait that's more unique than when you first got it. And sometimes that can make a difference, especially on pressured fish or under different water clarities and conditions. Maybe a chartreuse crankbait appears too vividly in your fishery but a muted white and light chartreuse bait would look perfect to the bass. It's all about the flash and flicker effect when talking about crankbaits, so we think it's worth the time to bake a few baits.

Right now we've got six chartreuse crankbaits baking every day in a shallow box on the porch. Here are a few suggestions we found on sun baking your crankbaits:

1. Cut a small box about 1 inch deep to put the crankbaits in so they won't be shaded at any angle.
2. Find the place at your house that gets maximum sunlight.
3. Remove the hooks from your crankbaits.
4. After several days, rotate the crankbaits to the other side to keep the fading consistent.
5. Be patient. It's not going to happen in a week. It's going to take several weeks to make an impact but you should end up with a pretty unique crankbait.
6. You can take the box with you and let it bake in the truck, on a boat deck, etc.

These two crankbaits were bought at the same time. The bottom one was left in the sun for 2 months, while the other was kept in a tackle box in a boat compartment. This is just one example of how the sun can help your crankbaits become real fish catchers.

Editors Note: Be sure to follow manufacturer warnings on too much heat around plastic baits. Several baits don't deal well with heat. I like to put my crankbaits out in an open box on the porch rather than in a truck that is like a pressure cooker. You just want to sun bleach them, not cook them so to speak. We've not had a bait yet have problems but others have reported baits that have expanded and cracked due to heat.





































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