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Deep Fishing Spots | Cover Water Quickly

  
  
  
  
  
  
shin fukae bass fishing deep



As the spawn dies down in many parts of the country, you can expect the majority of bass to vacate their temporary shallow homes in search of deeper summertime dwellings. Dissecting these deep fishing spots for bass doesn’t always mean dragging soft plastics and staying in one spot for hours on end, however.

Cheez-It pro Shin Fukae’s ability to fish deep quickly propelled him to a recent PAA win on Lake Douglas. While many anglers fished underwater cover slowly and methodically, Fukae visited dozens of spots each day, efficiently covering key pieces of cover.

Prime targets


When the late spring water and early summer water temperatures reach the 70 to 75-degree range, Fukae begins his search for deep cover such as brush piles, rock piles, shell beds, vegetation and timber. In the early post-spawn period, deeper cover close to shallow water is essential for finding big bass. He advises, however, that depth is a relative term in this case.

“The depth of post-spawn cover you’re looking for really depends on what type of lake you’re fishing,” Fukae said. “In some shallow fisheries, a brush pile in 8 feet of water is considered deep, while in deeper, clear lakes I’ll focus on the 20-foot depth range a bit more. Either way, you want to find deep cover adjacent to spawning flats.”

Just because the cover is in deep water doesn’t mean there will be bass present. Fukae looks for submerged cover strategically located in or around “bass highways”—creek and river channels bass use as travel routes to and from deep water. In addition to using these areas as natural pathways, bass will also use these areas to recover from the rigors of the spawn.

“I look for brush located in and around points, in the mouths of short pockets and creeks and in creek channel bends,” Fukae said. “It’s the path of least resistance to deeper water, making them great staging areas for early summer bass.”

Efficiency is key


If you’ve been idling around all day looking for deep cover, it’s tempting to “camp out” when you finally find a good looking area. It’s in the right depth, it’s close to deep water and the conditions are perfect—there must be fish there, right? Fukae takes a much different approach that allows him to fish more productive areas while eliminating dead water.

“At the very most, I’ll make about 5 casts to each piece of cover without getting bit,” Fukae said. “In my opinion, the first couple of casts are simply getting the fish’s attention. If I still can’t get them to bite after a few more casts, I either change baits or move on. There’s too many fish in the lake to get caught up on a single piece of cover.”

As he approaches submerged cover, Fukae prefers to keep his distance so he doesn’t risk spooking wary bass. This extra distance also allows him to use his trolling motor more while frequently changing his casting angles.

“Casting angles are very important—it’s what helped me win the PAA event on Lake Douglas,” Fukae said. “I make about 2 casts at each angle—to the front, the back and the sides. This gives me confidence that the fish have gotten a good look at my bait.”

Change approach to match the conditions

Bass are fierce predators and will use deep cover as ambush points for prey, such as shad and crawfish. In windy conditions, Fukae takes advantage of their instincts by casting into the wind.

“Bass tend to face up-current when they’re positioned on deep cover,” Fukae said. “When baitfish get blown by the wind, the bass will hide in the cover and ambush them as they pass. I cast into the wind to replicate this natural occurrence so my bait will come at the bass head-on.”


In calmer, sunny conditions, you’ll find Fukae making more precise casts to cover. Bass stay tight to cover in these situations, making accurate, deliberate casts much more important.

“I really slow down my approach when fishing in sunny conditions,” Fukae said. “The bait probably isn’t moving around as much and everything underwater is much calmer. A fast or noisy approach can seem very unnatural to bass in these situations, so make sure to slow your presentation. That doesn’t mean you need to sit on a brush pile for hours, but just make your 5 casts count.”

Mistakes to avoid

Fishing deep cover efficiently takes a great deal of time and practice. After years of practice and catching numerous big bags with this technique, Fukae urges anglers to spend time on their electronics.


“You’ve got to idle and watch your graphs—a lot—to find productive areas,” Fukae said. “It’s going to be tough to fish deep cover quickly if you don’t have enough spots to last throughout the day. I dedicate entire days to searching for cover, and as a result I have over 1,000 pieces of deep cover marked on several fisheries. You have to give yourself options.”

Fukae is also a staunch believer in big electronic displays. The large screens help him make better sense of the surrounding bottom composition, therefore allowing him to quickly eliminate areas if the needed factors aren’t present.

“I love my Lowrance Gen2 HDS-10 graphs,” Fukae said. “They help me key in on very small details, especially bottom composition. If your wallet—or spouse—allows you to step up to larger electronics, by all means, do it!”

If you’ve found great looking cover on your graph, don’t get discouraged if you don’t get any bites. This happens to Fukae frequently, but he doesn’t let it fluster him. Instead, he’ll come back to the area throughout the day in hopes of catching them in a feeding period.

“Deep cover bass aren’t going to eat all day, every day,” Fukae said. “They’ll go through periodic feeding windows, making it important to keep checking on your best cover. You can fish a specific piece of cover 4 times and not get any bites, and then catch 20 pounds of fish on your fifth visit. Stay calm, have fun and you’ll hit it right if you keep trying.”

Deep water fishing takes some getting used to, but if you spend time idling and graphing with your electronics, you’ll give yourself the ability to quickly cover deep cover. The more options you uncover, the better chance you have at running across a school of huge bass.

























































Fishing Stick Worms for Bass in the Spring

  
  
  
  
  
  
dinger bass jumping fight




By Walker Smith


Stick worms for bass are widely regarded as one of the most simple, yet effective ways to catch more fish. In a time where many soft plastic baits look more like spaceships than bass cuisine, sometimes keeping your bait selection simple can pay big dividends.

Throughout the spring, it’s not uncommon to see Yum pro Matt Reed and Keystone Light pro Brent Ehrler ditch the appendages and opt for the simple, subtle profile of a stick worm. It’s almost impossible to fish a stick worm incorrectly, but Reed and Ehrler have keyed in on a few simple, yet very useful tips.

Throw it early and often

   Photo courtesy of FishPAA.com
 
When the water temperature is in the 55-degree range, Reed instinctively reaches for his favorite stick worm, the Yum F2 Dinger. Although many anglers utilize stick worms solely on light or weightless Texas rigs, he takes a different approach in the early spring.

“Carolina rigging an F2 Dinger on deep points is one of the best ways to catch those sluggish, prespawn bass,” Reed said. “When the water temperature is cold, you always want a very subtle bait without a lot of action. I’ve had some awesome days doing this.”

Ehrler prefers to disregard the water temperature and throw his go-to stick worm, a Gary Yamamoto 5-inch Senko, based only on environmental cues. He’s noticed one important clue that serves as a dead-giveaway for a hot stick worm bite.

“It doesn’t matter what the water temperature is because every lake is different,” Ehrler said. “However, whenever I see fish cruising the shallows, they will, without question, eat a Senko. If the water is wet and bass live in it, you’ll catch them on a Senko.”
 
A versatile tool for spawning bass

As prespawn bass make their way into spawning coves, Reed uses a small Texas rig to catch roaming bass. He jokingly blames his lack of patience as the primary need for a bullet weight.

“I just don’t like to fish very slow, so I tend to use a 1/16 or 1/8-ounce bullet weight when I’m bed fishing or just covering flats looking for spawners,” Reed said. “You’d think it would hurt your number of bites, but I catch plenty of good fish on it and I can also fish it quicker.”

Both Ehrler and Reed are big believers in “long lining” for spawning bass—a technique in which they locate a bass bed, return at a later time and make very long casts to it with a weightless stick worm. They have fooled countless big bass using this technique.


“If you can make that long cast past the bed before the fish sees you, they will almost always bite on the very first cast,” Ehrler said. “You can land your cast a couple feet to the side of the bed and they’ll actually leave the bed and eat it. It’s crazy how they’ll eat that thing.”

Cover water for cruising post-spawners

It’s a common occurrence to see big, post-spawn bass cruising the shallows. Whether they’re hunting bluegill beds or capitalizing on a recent mayfly hatch, these fish are some of the toughest to catch. To intercept these gypsy bass, Ehrler uses a weightless, Texas-rigged 5-inch Senko as a search bait.

“Again, the biggest key to this technique is making an ultra-long cast,” Ehrler said. “After a long cast, I simply let it free-fall to the bottom, pop it twice and do it all over again. I’m more worried about the initial fall, because that’s how you’ll get 90 percent of your bites.”

Although Reed prefers to target cast a stick worm for post-spawn bass, he echoes Ehrler’s sentiments regarding the importance of the initial fall. He doesn’t leave it in one place too long.

   Photo courtesy of FishPAA.com

“I get almost all of my bites on the initial fall when I’m flipping an F2 Dinger to cover,” Reed said. “The only time I try to cover water with a stick worm is when I’m fishing long grass lines. Even then, I’ll twitch it a couple times and keep making casts.”

Wacky rig it for a totally different look


Docks and pontoon boats mean one thing for Ehrler—a wacky rigged stick worm. While he uses a weightless Texas rig to cover water, he puts his wacky rig and spinning gear to work when he’s making quick casts to precise cover.

“You’ll get a lot more action rigging the Senko wacky style,” Ehrler said. “It will fall slower which may require more patience for the angler, but the slow fall will make bass swim from further away to bite it. Any time you need to skip a stick worm into a small area, a wacky rig is the way to go.”

Reed also wacky rigs his F2 Dingers in the post-spawn, but primarily around grass.

“I still don’t work my Dinger too far when it’s wacky rigged, but I’ve found it to be an outstanding choice around grass,” Reed said. “It doesn’t hang up very much and it gives those grass fish a totally different presentation that many people don’t use in those areas.”

Get creative with your presentation

There are endless ways to fish a stick worm, making experimentation essential. For instance, Reed makes good use of nail weights with his F2 Dingers.

“When I really want it to shimmy on the way down, I’ll Texas rig it an insert nail weights sideways,” Reed said. “I’ll actually use 2 or 3 nail weights to match the width of the worm, and I put them in sideways so the Dinger is still pliable.”


Ehrler has had a lot of success fishing a 5-inch Senko on a 1/8-ounce Picasso Shakedown shaky head. While many anglers prefer to Texas rig stick worms, Ehrler finds his approach more erratic on the fall.

“The stick worm will definitely ‘play’ more on a Shakedown,” Ehrler said. “As it falls, the bait and weight are essentially one piece, causing it to spiral. With traditional bullet weights, the bait just follows the weight straight down.”

Equipment suggestions

When fishing a stick worm, Reed uses a 7-foot, medium-heavy Johnny Morris Carbon Lite Casting Rod and 12 to 14-pound Bass Pro XPS Fluorocarbon. In clear water situations, he doesn’t hesitate to downsize to 8-pound test.

If Ehrler is wacky rigging a stick worm, he always opts for spinning gear due to the increased castability. He exclusively uses a 7-foot, heavy action Lucky Craft Reaction 2 Spinning Rod and an Abu Garcia Revo Premier 40 spooled with 12-pound Sunline SX1 Braided Line for the mainline with a 6-foot leader of 8-pound Sunline FC Sniper Fluorocarbon. For the business end, he opts for a 1/0 Gamakatsu Weedless Drop/Split Shot Hook.

When throwing a weightless Texas-rigged stick worm, Ehrler uses a 7-foot, medium-heavy  Lucky Craft Pitching Rod with a 7.3:1 Abu Garcia Revo STX spooled with 16-pound Sunline FC Sniper Fluorocarbon. He keeps his hook selection simple with a 4/0 Gamakatsu Offset EWG Hook.

When you hit the water this spring, experiment with these stick worm techniques and develop your own customizations, too. Whether it’s the prespawn, spawn or post-spawn, throwing a stick worm is always a safe bet.










































































How to Cast to Shallow Cover | The Lost Art

  
  
  
  
  
  
bolton roll casting to a flooded bush

By Jason Sealock

"I'm not as smart as Kevin Van Dam and I'm not as good as David Dudley; I can just get my baits in some places others can't."

Craig Powers shared that thought with me on a day of fishing Kentucky Lake years ago. At the time, I didn't grasp the importance of knowing how to cast to tight openings in cover, especially in the shallow-water professional fishing game. Not every lake offers great offshore fishing, but most offer windows of opportunity for shallow fishing, especially around cover like laydowns, grass, bushes, overhanging trees, docks and more.

There are 7 things that will improve your shallow casting:

  •     Be Patient
  •     Get in position
  •     Don't throw too hard
  •     Train your thumb and wrist
  •     See your targets
  •     Rods and lines matter
  •     Cast by any means necessary

We'll discuss how to cast better in a minute, but it's probably better to understand why you need to from these pros.

Our casting has gotten lazy

I shared a boat with FLW Tour pro Terry Bolton so we could shoot some video for Wired2fish. Now, I consider myself a decent angler, probably more a student of the game than a guru like those who do it for a living, but I can hold my own most of the time. After spending one day with Terry Bolton, I realized I'd forgotten the importance of making precision casts to and beyond a target.

"I can't hold Andy Morgan's minnow bucket," Bolton said in reference to his own casting. Lord help me, I have a ways to go if that's the case. And so do a bunch of anglers I'm sure. Bolton placed his importance on casting after spending one day as an observer back in 1994 with Andy Morgan. He left the boat that day, deciding he did in fact know nothing about how to cast, and he should probably remedy that if he was going to pursue a professional fishing career.

The fact is with side scanning and offshore fishing becoming more prominent, the desire to dice up shallow cover has dwindled in recent years. Now we're all bombing long casts offshore. Yet, in talking with several pros the last two weeks, the same few names kept coming up as great casters, all who have won or do consistently well fishing shallow: Andy Morgan, Andy Montgomery, Bryan Thrift, Tommy Biffle, Chris Baumgardner and Jason Christie.

One cast is critical, always

Elite Series pro Gerald Swindle probably doesn't view himself as a brilliant caster, but he's mentioned too when it comes to getting a little jig into tight places around a dock. He explained the importance of one cast to me recently.

"I've seen times where one fish meant your whole tournament, even your whole season. Because one 3-pounder late in the day to make the cut, that would seal the deal for you making the Classic was all you needed, and you saw that fish up shallow near a piece of cover. You make a big splash, loud commotion and plunk down on top of it, and the bass is gone with your season.  You've got to be able to lay it in there perfectly, quietly, effortlessly. You've got to psyche yourself up like that all the time to keep from getting lazy. Tell yourself that this cast is going to get you that bite you need to make the cut. Put that pressure on yourself to get good with your casting."



Casting as a necessity


FLW Tour pro Andy Morgan won dozens and dozens of tournaments fishing shallow for bass.

"It really pisses me off when I make a bad cast," Morgan said, half joking. "The older I get though, the more I seem to make. I can't always lay it in there perfectly like I used to."

Morgan's father taught him to cast well to shallow cover. Out of necessity, Morgan learned to do it both left and right handed because his father was yanking big bass way up under and behind close cover and if you were behind him there was nowhere to cast right handed. So he had to teach himself how to lay a bait in there quietly with a backhanded left-hand pitch. He would see his father catch em up there and decided he need to learn how to cast his baits way up under and around shallow cover as quietly as possible too.

photo courtesy of FLW / Rob Newell

According to Morgan, Swindle and Bolton, these 7 things will help improve your casting:

1. Patience to target

Yes you'll need to be patient because you're going to back lash, tangle and lose tackle through the process of improving your shallow casting. So stick it out. But more importantly as you get better with casting you need to be patient and not bomb a long cast a good looking piece of cover. Fish what is in front of you a piece of cover at a time.

2. Get in position

This might be the number one rule of being a good caster. There are angles and openings that become apparent in all types of cover depending on where your boat is relative to the target. Don't force a cast into a small opening, if the opening becomes a bit larger by inching forward a few feet on the trolling motor. You'll find that getting in position often allows you to get your bait a lot further back into cover where it's likely other anglers have missed.

3. Don't throw too hard

This is an obvious mistake. We see an opening, we want our bait to go back their ten feet past the opening so we think we need to catapult it in there to get it there. When in essence a good roll cast, with a sufficiently weighted bait and a nice load on a rod will shoot the bait plenty far in and past the cover without causing you so much headache with backlash and tangled lures.

4. Learn the underhand roll cast

This might be a separate article, but essentially, a roll cast is performed with the lure about 8-12 inches from your tip and drawing a circle with your rod tip out to the side from 10 o'clock all the way back around to 10 o'clock. The trick is training your wrist to swirl the bait and rod around sufficiently to load the rod and send the lure shooting very low to the water to its target, thus minimizing the splash and commotion of the cast. You can practice this in your yard or out on open water away from targets.

5. See your targets

The fact is many anglers recognize bass holding targets, but in the anxiety of making a good cast to the target they lose focus on the target and focus on their rod or lure. Always focus on the target the whole cast. And back to No. 2, look ahead for your targets and wait until you're in position to make the proper cast. Don't miss a good presentation because you didn't see the next bush coming.

6. Match rods and line

A 5-foot tall angler will have a hard time roll casting a 7-foot, 6-inch rod. You want to use a rod that you can cast well without hitting the tip on the boat or the water when casting. The longer the rod, the more out instead of down your rod position will be on the cast. The only drawback can be that it's harder to horse fish out of heavy cover with a shorter rod. So use the longest rod you can get away with and still be efficient. Andy Morgan uses a 7-foot, 3-inch a lot, but he's really tall. Bolton likes a 6-foot, 10-inch rod for his stature. Likewise Swindle often uses a 6-foot, 10-inch rod to shoot small jigs way up under docks.

7. Master all the casts

The fact is you don't have to just roll cast. Maybe based on the angle, a pitch, flip or skip, or as Morgan called it a "roll cast with some heat on it", presents the lure more effectively in the cover. Morgan recalled winning a BFL (Redman) Regional on Kerr Lake many years ago fishing behind other guys and pitching a spinnerbait deep behind docks and between docks and pontoons with 3-inch openings. He caught two big key fish right behind another competitor on a set of docks that sealed the win and his All-American berth. The fact was the bass hadn't see a spinnerbait presented in those places, and it paid off with a big win.

Casting, like anything else takes a lot of practice if you want to get really good at it. No amount of reading will do that for you unfortunately. But at least you have an idea of why and how to cast to shallow cover.  Take the time to put your baits quietly where the bass don't see many, and these pros guarantee it will improve your fishing.












































































Spring Bass Fishing with the Micro Bass Grub

  
  
  
  
  
  
spotted-bass-grub



Jared Lintner shows off one of his favorite ways to catch spring bass


By Walker Smith

Spring bass have a reputation for being especially gullible throughout the spawn—it’s a welcomed occurrence for anglers after enduring a long, brutal winter. As the spawn begins to die down, however, and the last waves of spawners move onto sandy, shallow areas, they can actually become a bit difficult to catch. After being relentlessly pursued for weeks on-end, these wary bass become wise to our tricks.

Tackle Warehouse pro Jared Lintner has found a way to overcome suspicious late spring bass. For the past 2 years, he has been using an ultra-finesse technique that has fooled countless giant bass—he calls it the “micro bass grub”. With a basic understanding of when, where and how to use it, you can make the most out of tricky late spring bass fishing.

What is it?

At one point or another, most of us have caught bass on soft plastic grubs—many of us have probably caught our first bass on it. If you thought that was a finesse technique, Lintner’s technique will make it seem like power fishing.

When rigging his micro grub, Lintner uses a 3/32-ounce Keitech Super Round Tungsten Jig Head for calmer conditions and a heavier 1/8-ounce model for easier casting in breezy conditions. If he’s around particularly large bass or thick cover, he prefers a Jackall Weedless Wacky Jig Head due to its thicker hook and small weed guard. Lintner maintains his ultra-finesse mindset when selecting an appropriate soft plastic bait.

“Don’t be afraid to throw a really small bait with this technique,” Lintner said. “I like to use a 1-inch or 1 1/2-inch Yamamoto Single Tail Grub. They’re loaded with salt and have an excellent swimming action. In reality, you can use other tiny grub models, too, but I have the most confidence with the Yamamotos.”

Where to start


When the fishing gets tough, Lintner turns to his micro bass grub in areas likely to hold both bass and bream beds—shallow, sandy flats. As he approaches these areas with his trolling motor, he keeps an eye out for any white spots on the bottom. These spots are indicative of bass and bream beds, which make them prime candidates for the often-overlooked micro grub.

On popular, heavily pressured fisheries, the majority of anglers power fish with big, bright-colored baits and heavy line. Lintner is a staunch believer that late spring bass get accustomed to these techniques, which lets him take a totally different approach with the micro grub.

“When I’m faced with bass that have been bothered by big, bulky tackle for the entire spring, the micro grub allows me to show them something they’ve probably never seen,” Lintner said. “Basically, if I see a late spring bass on bed or a big bass hovering around a bream bed, it won’t take more than 2 casts to catch them with this technique.”

How to fish it

The biggest key to effectively utilizing the micro grub is making the longest casts you can possibly make. Because Lintner most often uses this technique in clear water, heavy pressure situations, the bass will easily spook if you get too close.

“I like to keep my trolling motor on a fairly low setting and stay far away from the fish,” Lintner said. “Once I get my boat into position, I always want to cast past my target. Whether I’m casting to a visible bed or simply blind casting to shallow cover, I don’t want the grub to plop down on top of the bass.”

Following a long cast, Lintner lets the Single Tail Grub do most of the work. Reeling just fast enough to keep a small bow in his line, he’ll incorporate an occasional twitch or pause as the micro grub rig nears pieces of key cover. He uses extremely light tackle for this technique, so a strike isn’t difficult to detect.


“Whenever you get a bite, you’ll know it,” Lintner said. “Most of the times you’ll feel it in your line, but I’ve noticed a similarity with a lot of the bigger fish I’ve caught on it—a lot of times you’ll just see your line slowly swimming to the side. You don’t want to go crazy on your hookset with such light tackle, so just reel and smoothly sweep on the hookset.”

Conditions to look for

Because the micro grub technique calls for such a lightweight jig head, wind is not necessarily your friend in this case. A slight breeze, however, is a very different story.

“I like sunny conditions with a small ripple on the water,” Lintner said. “Too much wind will not only mess up your casting, but it will also hinder your ability to feel the bait, which is a big deal when fishing the micro grub.”

If you’re faced with cloudy conditions, don’t give up on the micro grub altogether. Although the location of bass may not be as easy to predict with the decreased visibility, it also doubles as an effective search bait, too.

“This rig isn’t as easy to use in cloudy conditions, but it will still definitely catch fish,” Lintner said. “I’ll just get on sandy, shallow flats and fan cast it to probable bedding areas—they’ll still bite it.”

Equipment and color selection

According to Lintner, there are two key factors to your equipment selection for throwing the micro grub—a high-quality rod and excellent line. Due to its fast taper and powerful butt-section, Lintner exclusively uses a 6-foot, 8-inch medium-light action G. Loomis GLX Spinning Rod.

When it comes to his reel and line selection, he trusts 6-pound Sunline FC Sniper and a Shimano Sustain Spinning Reel.

“I’ll definitely take my chances with the light tackle,” Lintner said. “I’ve caught fish up to 12 pounds on the micro grub around heavy cover. If you just hold steady and avoid getting in a big hurry and horsing them in, they usually swim away from cover. They’ll initially want to go in there, but if you just hold pressure on them, they’ll come right out and you’ll get ‘em.”

Regardless of the conditions, Lintner keeps his grub color selection very simple. Because of the abundance of small baitfish and bluegill that inhabit the shallows during the spring, he chooses natural colors.

“99 percent of the time, I’m throwing very subtle, non-aggressive colors,” Lintner said. “My favorites are green pumpkin, watermelon and watermelon red flake.”

If you’re dealing with spooky, stubborn fish this spring, break out the lightest tackle you have and try the micro grub. Although it may seem dainty, your opinion may be changed when you see the fish it will catch.





























































4 Tips for Better Crankbait Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
ripping crankbait bass from water




Small, easy changes can lead to big increases in your crankbait fishing success


By Walker Smith

Crankbait fishing is widely misunderstood. While many brand it as a technique as simple as casting and reeling, paying attention to the smallest details will greatly increase your catch.

I have the opportunity to take a lot of novice anglers fishing when I guide trips on my home lake, and over the years, I have found 4 effective ways to land more crankbait fish. It’s important to understand that there isn’t a “right” or “wrong” way to fish a crankbait, but the following tips have helped both myself and my clients enjoy more success on the water.

Keep your rod tip at a 45-degree angle to your target

One of the biggest mistakes anglers make when crankbait fishing is holding their rod tip at a 90-degree angle to their target. When I first started crankbait fishing, I did the same thing—it feels most natural at first. Try to fight that instinct whenever possible.


When you hold the rod in this manner, you don’t leave yourself enough room or leverage to set the hook. If a bass happens to bite when you’re in this position, you’re left having to torque your back in order to make up for your decrease in leverage. Doing so results in a delayed hookset and it also takes you out of position to counter any strong runs or jumps the bass may make. I jokingly refer to this as being “caught with your pants down”.

Instead, try to keep your rod tip at a 45-degree angle to your target. When a bass bites your crankbait, you leave yourself an additional 45 degrees to lean into your hookset while also staying in position to effectively fight the fish. This approach also allows the bass to eat the entire crankbait and get both hooks in its mouth, therefore increasing your chances of landing it.

Make sure to keep your rod tip low to the water


When you fish a crankbait with a high rod tip, you’re immediately taking the control from yourself and giving it to the fish. If you get bit with your rod tip in the air, you have to make an extra, downward movement in order to get into fish-fighting position.

This position can also tempt you to set the hook upward when you get a bite. When a bass eats your crankbait, you want to drive the hooks that are on the bottom on the bait into its mouth. Pulling upward on the hookset drives the top of the crankbait—the part with no hooks—into the top of the fish’s mouth, resulting in a decreased probability of getting a solid hookup.

To counter this issue, simply keep your rod tip low to the water. I prefer to keep my rod tip approximately one foot above the surface. When I sweep to the side on the hookset, this technique makes sure that I am driving the hooks downward into the mouth of the bass. If you combine a low rod tip with a 45-degree angle to your target, you’re going to notice an immediate improvement.

There’s one exception to this tip. When fishing in ultra-shallow water, sometimes you have to “high stick” your crankbait to avoid snagging vegetation or other cover. If you find yourself in this situation, make sure to give the bass a little “tip” when it bites. Pointing the tip of the rod toward the bass will give you a little extra time to drop the rod tip and get into position to execute a proper hookset.

Pull, don’t snatch


This is a mistake that I still make sometimes. Assuming you’ve got your rod tip dropped and at a 45-degree angle, always pull on a crankbait hookset—don’t snatch. When you snatch the crankbait during the hookset, you’re actually pulling the bait away from the bass before they can really eat it.

Next time you get a crankbait bite, reel a couple times to ensure a solid hookup and then swiftly sweep your rod tip to the side. You’ll hook more fish than you’ll lose with this technique.

Play the bass slowly

We always see pros on television making huge hooksets and skiing bass across the top of the water. That type of approach is necessary at times, but try not to do that with crankbait fish. I had a guy in my boat lose a 7-pounder on a crankbait a couple of weeks ago because he “horsed” it too much.

You can categorize the majority of crankbait bites into 2 categories—“pops” and “stops”. Most, but not all, smaller fish tend to pop the crankbait. When I feel this, I sweep to the side and slowly reel it in. Nothing too crazy. Sounds simple, right?

It gets more interesting when you get a good, old fashioned “stop”. It’s either going to be a giant bass or a big stump. Either way, it’s important to always set the hook. I’ve seen a lot of folks mistake a 5-pounder for a stump and get their hearts broken when they didn’t set the hook. If your line stops, set the hook. You can always get your crankbait unhung, but you can’t make that big bass bite again.


When I lay into a big crankbait bass, I drop to one knee on my front deck. Not to be dramatic, but to discourage the bass from jumping. While I am on one knee, my rod tip is underwater—the lower you keep your rod tip, the more unlikely the bass is to jump.

If I feel a big head shake, I stop reeling and keep steady pressure on the fish. It’s important to remember that you don’t have the bass in these situations—the bass has you. Let the bass do what it wants to do. When the head shakes stop, slowly reel the fish in while remaining on one knee. Not only does this discourage jumping, but it also puts you in position to quickly belly land a big bass if you’re without a net.

This is a great time of year to be cranking, so try these quick tips next time you’re chunking a crankbait around. Everyone does things a little different, but I’ve seen proper rod angles, a methodical hookset and patient fish fighting greatly improve anglers’ crankbait success.


















































Breaking Down Flats for Spring Bass

  
  
  
  
  
  
browning with a  flats bass on a chatterbait

There’s a method to Stephen Browning’s madness


By Walker Smith

Many bass anglers look forward to spring bass fishing throughout the entire year. When spring finally arrives and bass begin roaming flats in search of warmer water and bedding areas, it gives us the ability to chase after them with a plethora of moving baits—the key word being “chase”.

Bass fishing flats isn’t as straight forward as it may sound. Instead of wandering around shallow water areas hoping to luckily intercept a big bass, LIVETARGET pro Stephen Browning considers 4 key elements that can turn an ordinary day into an extraordinary one.

•    Structure and cover
•    Weather
•    Presentation
•    Timing

Pay close attention to structure and cover

In many fisheries, the majority of flats are adorned with some sort of depth change. Whether it is a small, 2-foot depth change or a large drain resulting from fluctuating water levels, Browning considers these small variations essential when dissecting flats.


“You absolutely have to use your electronics to find the depth change—that is always my first step,” Browning said. “Start out at the very beginning of the flat and try to find a small drainage ditch that leads into it. You need to find the highway the fish are using to travel to and from the flat.”

He also makes it a point to monitor the bottom composition. Bass don’t prefer muck-covered bottoms, especially in the spring. As they prepare to spawn, they will be on the lookout for hard bottom areas, such as sand or gravel. Without a hard bottom, your search for big bass will be hindered.

His next order of business is finding any available cover on the flat such as stumps, rock piles or submerged vegetation. As he makes his way onto the flat, Browning uses a wide variety of search baits to simply feel for cover. Whenever he notices his bait deflect off of something, he takes advantage of his electronics.

“Every time I feel my bait hit something, I make sure to enter a waypoint on my graph,” Browning said. “This helps me fish more efficiently when I come back to it. Instead of bombing casts to low percentage areas, I’m able to pinpoint exactly what I’m casting to. Sure, bass will roam around on these flats and you can catch those fish, but they’d much rather be snugged-up to some type of cover.”

Two conditions are necessary

When he’s looking for productive bass fishing on flats, Browning has noticed two key conditions that are essential for his success—wind and direct sunlight. Although one or the other is sufficient for big bass, both of the conditions combined can lead to some huge catches.

“A really bright, sunny day really makes spring bass jump onto the flats,” Browning said. “They’re not always up there to feed, either. Most of the time they’re just searching for warm water.”

Wind is also critical as it churns the water and increases oxygen levels. Whenever there is an increase in the oxygen level, both the bass and baitfish become more active and easier to find.

“Catching fish on moving baits is always easier with wind,” Browning said. “It lets the bass use cover as a current break and ambush point. They’ll sit on the downwind side of a stump and just wait for a group of shad to get blown by. The fish get positioned better which makes them easier to pinpoint.”

On bright, sunny days, Browning turns to 3 specific baits. If he notices a lack of wind, he’ll throw a Z Man Original Chatterbait Elite on a 7-foot medium-heavy St. Croix Legend Extreme paired up with a 6.4:1 Lew’s Team Gold Speed Spool Casting Reel and 16-pound Gamma Edge Fluorocarbon.


If there’s a stiff breeze blowing, he covers water with a Koppers LIVETARGET Crawfish Squarebill Crankbait and a Koppers LIVETARGET Golden Shiner Vibration Trap, both on a 6-foot, 10-inch medium-action St. Croix Mojo Glass Crankbait Rod teamed with a 6.4:1 Lew's BB-1 Speed Spool Casting Reel.

Presentation is always important

Regardless of the conditions, Browning usually begins his approach focused on the depth change. Even if it’s just a small depression in the middle of the flat, bass will use it as a travel route. Using this method, he’s noticed 2 presentations that work better than others.

“If the flat is laid out correctly, I really prefer to parallel any available break lines,” Browning said. “Even if the bass aren’t particularly active, they’ll slide off the flat and sit on those break lines.”

You’ll also find him throwing his bait onto the flat and retrieving it towards deeper water. For instance, if the average depth of the flat is 3 feet, it’s not uncommon to see his boat sitting in 6 to 8 feet of water. In a way, this gives him the best of both worlds.

“This presentation lets me make long casts onto the flat to pick off the more aggressive fish while also allowing me to target the more inactive fish that may be suspended along the break line,” Browning said. “It’s a good way to fish for two different types of fish.”

Timing is a big deal

Many of us consider early spring mornings to be the best time to draw a strike from a big bass. While Browning doesn’t necessarily disagree, he’s found flats to be most productive during a totally different timeframe.

“Early in the morning is good, but the early afternoon is the prime time for targeting flats,” Browning said. “During the springtime, that’s usually the warmest period of the day, which is when the bass will flock to these areas. If I’m fishing during the spring and notice my temperature gauge bump up a couple degrees, you can bet I’ll be headed towards a nearby flat.”

If he fishes a flat thoroughly without getting a quality bite, Browning doesn’t just give up on it. Many times, after letting the area rest for an hour or two, he’ll revisit it. Bass move onto flats in short spurts throughout the day, so never get discouraged if you have a slow start.

“Ideally, I want to find several places where I can establish a pattern and rotate areas throughout the day,” Browning said. “You may only get one bite at a time, but more times than not it’s a big bite. If you have enough areas, you can have a fat sack at the end of the day.”

When you’re on the water this spring, don’t just pass by those light blue areas on your GPS map. Flats offer some of the best fishing of the spring and if you follow Browning’s advice, you’ll probably end up using a few more “sick” days than anticipated.




































































Veteran Pro Versus Young Pro Fishing Sponsorship Debate

  
  
  
  
  
  
Gerald Swindle and Diet Mountain Dew Sponsorship

Anti-Swindle rant belies fact that youth is not ready to be served

By Ronell Smith

“Help me make sense of this,” said the voice on the other end of the line. “How is it that  B.A.S.S. and FLW sponsors keep recycling the same pros?”

At this point, I had yet to say a word. The person speaking (loudly) into my ear was doing all of the talking and didn’t appear willing to give up the floor. All I got in was, “What do you mean?” before the fusillade tore into me.

“I just saw that B.A.S.S. signed Diet Mountain Dew as a sponsor, and what do you know? Gerald Swindle’s mug is right there on the page. He’s now one of [Diet Mountain Dew's] roster of athletes. Give me a break ... Hear me out, I have nothing against Gerald personally, but why in the heck would a big sponsor like Diet Dew, who can have whoever they want, recycle him or any of these other guys, like Ike or Skeet, when they have their pick of quality young pros?”

Well, that’s quite a way to enjoy your lunch.

Needless to say, I went to Bassmaster.com and saw what the caller was making such a ruckus about. Diet Mountain Dew signed a one-year sponsorship for all B.A.S.S tournament circuits, which includes the 2013 Bassmaster Elite Series, and Swindle was indeed listed as one of the Diet Dew pros.

I get it: marketable, well-liked, popular pro and good stick seems a good fit for a brand that is synonymous with the young, hip, in-crowd, whether they are skate boarders, bikers, surfers...or anglers. Say what you want about Swindle, he’s anything but stodgy, and by most folks’ standards, he’s, well, hip. Oh, and by the way, last time I checked, he’s good on the water, too, with 13 Classic appearances and more than $1.4 million dollars in winnings from B.A.S.S. alone.

But the caller wasn’t attacking Swindle’s prowess on the water. Neither, mind you, was he attacking Swindle personally. No, his complaint was “Why are these companies choosing established vets, who’ve had their time, over an up-and-comer?”

Ready for this? Because sponsors are smart. That’s why.

“Name me one up-and-comer who’ll give Diet Dew a better bang for their buck,” I shot back, tired of listening to the rant.

[Ed. note: I often get calls from folks who, whether to feel me out for information or because I have a willing ear, gossip or carry on more than they should about a company or pro. This call resonated because (a) it came from a industry person I’m not accustomed to hearing rant and (b) he was flat-out wrong.]

To be sure, this is not exactly what I told the person on the phone, but I’ll give you 3 reasons Diet Dew, or any sponsor for that matter, is wise to consider a vet like Swindle over some of the young guns.

The vets get it. Talk to a grizzled vet for any length of time, and you come away knowing one thing for sure: They know it’s not just about little green fish. They realize that sponsors’ commitments, being an ambassador for the sport and lengthening their career are paramount. They aren’t trying to wow you with their exploits on the water or convince you that they’re better than KVD.

In other words, they see the big picture, which means they know it’s not all about them. They have come to realize that if they can catch ‘em sometimes but are always good to the sport, to sponsors and to fans, karma is good to them. And they reap the rewards, as they should.

I remember asking Swindle, in 2009, what the response was from grizzled vets like Denny Brauer upon hearing the former signing a new sponsor. “You kidding me? Denny is great. He’s happy. He says, ‘Get it while you can. You earned it.’”

The youth need seasoning. I’ve yet to work with most of the latest crop of young anglers, but I’m frequently on the phone with their sponsors, and because of that I can safely attest to what I’m about the write: Many of them are not ready for the big time. Yeah, they can catch ‘em, but the little things are lacking.

Little things like honoring sponsors’ commitments; damning sponsors’ products in public. Let me be clear, I’m not saying all young pros engage in said behavior; I’m also not saying some vets don’t do the same things.

However, as the sponsor for one of the hottest young sticks recently said to me, “It’s like he just doesn’t get the business side of things. The fishing...he’s good there. But things like forgetting—or refusing—to talk about a lure is a problem. And when you’re in contention to win, and a  media member asks what you are using, you can’t say, ‘no comment’ ... not when that’s the only chance you might have to help the company.”

I’ve heard this complaint often.  

The arrogance is undeniable. I’m guessing I’m not alone here, but the level of arrogance emanating from some of the young, successful pros is beyond comprehension. I see that with my own eyes. I hear it with my own ears. In conversation, it’s all about how “I’m better than KVD”; “I’d have caught 25 pounds today, were it not for [put generic blame-anyone-but-me comment here]”; and “My sponsors need to step it up, or I’m not going to be with these guys next year.”

The one that always—always—gets me is the “I’m better than KVD” fiction. By what standard of measurement I wonder. But it’s nearly always said. The most worrying of all, though, is how some young pros totally look over providing any assistance to sponsors. I’ve heard them say, “I fish for a living. I don’t get paid to work shows.”

Oh, really. Read your contract, Einstein. The worst of all, and the one that I’ve personally been stung by is ignoring the chance to give a sponsor some publicity by refusing to return calls, even if the sponsor himself practically begs them.

I get it. They’re busy, right? Hmm... I’ve had Swindle call me, whispering, from a tree stand in Kansas; Skeet has returned my call on a Sunday, on the way to a World Series game; Pete Ponds has pulled himself away from actual work to listen to me ask dumb questions; and Mike McClelland has never let a voicemail go unanswered.

I can name several young pros who have yet to return more than a dozen calls and texts each, not including those from a (big-name) sponsor.

I, like most of you, would love to see the young pros get it together, as a whole, and take their career to the heights they envision. In the meantime, I’m happy Swindle, Ponds, Ike, Reese and McClelland won’t be making it easy for them any time soon.

Ronell Smith, whose blog can be found here, is widely considered a tackle expert and business insider for the sportfishing industry. Follow him on Twitter and FaceBook to learn more about the business side.



















































Small Crankbait Fishing in the Early Spring

  
  
  
  
  
  
scatter rap flats bass

Downsize your crankbait to catch bigger fish in the early spring, according to Brandon Palaniuk


By Walker Smith

Crankbait fishing is a phenomenal way to catch big bass throughout the early spring. When the fish start to venture to warmer, shallower water to shake off the chill of the winter, they become especially susceptible to smaller crankbaits.

Rigid Industries pro Brandon Palaniuk has enjoyed a great deal of success in his early career, with many of his heavy limits coming on small crankbaits. With some basic understanding of early spring bass behavior and small crankbait techniques, you’ll be able to enjoy some outstanding bass fishing throughout this early spring.

Where to start your search

We always hear about anglers utilizing wood cover during the spring, but many of us tend to overlook docks. They may not be as eye catching as a good looking blowdown, but Palaniuk jumps as the chance to fish docks for big, prespawn females.

“Docks that have a little flat on the shallow side with a good break midway down them are ideal places to use small crankbaits in the early spring,” Palaniuk said. “Bass will position on those breaks while using the docks as cover.”

During this time of year, it’s not uncommon to see multiple bass sitting under a single dock. If they ignore multiple flips and pitches with soft plastic baits, there’s a great chance they’ll react to a subtle crankbait.

“A lot of fishermen get spun out when they see a bunch of big bass they can’t catch,” Palaniuk said. “It gets me excited because when early spring bass get into this neutral state, they will absolutely crush a small crankbait.”


When fishing a body of water void of docks, Palaniuk turns to isolated wood cover. To find high percentage areas, he carefully studies his Navionics map. Whenever he notices tight contour lines near a shallow bank, he puts his trolling motor down and goes to work.

“Whether it’s a 45-degree bank or an expansive flat like the one I fished during the 2011 Classic, prespawn bass flock to wood cover with deep water nearby,” Palaniuk said. “Warm water is key during this time of year and wood holds a lot of heat for the bass to absorb. It doesn’t have to be right on the bank, either—as long as there’s deep water somewhere nearby, there are going to be some fat bass.”

With crawfish being a major food source for bass in the early spring, rock can also be a big player. In addition to hosting a multitude of easy meals for hungry prespawn bass, rocks also hold heat very well. Plainly stated, rocks offer bass two critical elements—food and warmth.

When to use a small crankbait

If we all had a dime for every time we heard an angler preach about “matching the hatch”, we’d all be millionaires by now. They don’t just say because it sounds cool—it’s an essential practice for catching big bass. According to Palaniuk, it’s never more important than right now.

“Earlier in the year, most of the baitfish are still somewhat small,” Palaniuk said. “When you compound the small baitfish with the slow metabolism of a prespawn bass, it makes perfect sense to downsize to a small crankbait. Bass are smart and won’t eat something if it looks unnatural for the time of year.”

As bass make their first move toward shallow water, they’re not necessarily looking for big meals. After being in cold water during the winter, they’re simply trying to warm up and search for suitable bedding areas.

“Just because they’re not actively feeding doesn’t mean they won’t eat a small crankbait if it passes in front of their face,” Palaniuk said. “They’ll be a little less apt to chase down big prey, so downsizing your crankbait to a smaller size gives them a better opportunity to eat it.”

Angles and retrieve speed


When fishing wood cover with small crankbaits, Palaniuk starts out with a slower retrieve in order to reduce hang-ups and concentrate on the most productive pieces of cover. His cranking angles make the biggest difference, however.

“I change up my angles constantly, especially around laydowns,” Palaniuk said. “I try to bring the crankbait straight down both sides of the cover, but it’s very important to make multiple casts. The first couple casts may just get the bass’ attention while following casts give them the opportunity to actually eat it.”

Making multiple casts to a single piece of cover may seem overkill to some anglers, but if the wood cover is located in a prime location, it can be well worth it.

“I’ve made upwards of 15 casts with a small crankbait to a single laydown before finally catching a really big one,” Palaniuk said. “I do this a lot when the laydown I’m fishing is located close to a creek channel because more often than not, they’ll continuously refresh with big bass.”

His approach changes when he finds himself fishing around rocky riprap banks. Bass usually don’t hold as tightly to rock as they do wood, so he prefers to burn small crankbaits parallel to the rocks in order to cover more water and force reaction bites.

“Rocks hold more heat, so it speeds up the metabolism of the bass,” Palaniuk said. “When you’re fishing wood, you’ve got a couple of pieces to hit, but big wing dams and riprap banks provide more surface area which allows you to move faster and fish more efficiently.”

Favorite small crankbaits

When targeting early spring bass around cover, Palaniuk has a lot of confidence in a Rapala DT4. Its ability to come through cover makes it a must-have for these situations.

“The DT4 is made out of balsa and has a very tight wiggle,” Palaniuk said. “Its small, compact profile allows the bass to eat the whole thing while the angle of the line tie and natural buoyancy lets it come through the nastiest cover on the lake.”

For rocky areas, such as wing dams and riprap banks, the new Rapala Scatter Rap in a crawfish pattern is tough to beat.

“The action is unreal,” Palaniuk said. “Its evasive, sweeping action looks like a crawfish darting in and out of the rocks. Once it hits the riprap and darts the opposite direction, it looks just like injured prey. You get some insane bites with the Scatter Rap.”

If he’s faced with clean water and ultra-timid bass, Palaniuk prefers a Rapala Crankin Rap 03. Measuring 2 inches long and weighing 3/8-ounce, it’s the perfect remedy to stubborn bass.

“The Crankin Rap 03 is made of plastic which allows for some really awesome translucent finishes,” Palaniuk said. “Translucent baits look very realistic in clear water which, of course, results in bigger fish and a lot more bites.”

As you head to your favorite lake for some early spring fishing, keep some smaller crankbaits on hand. When you can’t get a bite on anything else, downsizing your crankbait can lead to huge prespawn bass.





































































How to Fish a Floating Bass Worm in the Spring

  
  
  
  
  
  
Trick Worm Catches Bass

Floating worms are an overlooked spring technique, according to Mike McClelland

By Walker Smith

A floating bass worm is responsible for many of our oldest fishing memories. It proves equally effective in ponds, rivers, lakes and reservoirs alike. Despite its proven effectiveness, this method of fishing is quickly becoming a lost art, according to SPRO pro Mike McClelland. While the worms don't in fact float, they fall so slow that they appear to be neutrally bouyant like much of the prey bass eat.

McClelland finds spring to be the perfect time to break out his personal favorite floating worm, the Zoom Trick Worm, to catch big bass. Understanding when, where, why and how to fish them will drastically increase your success this spring.

Primary targets

While many of us have had great success throwing Trick Worms toward blowdowns and other eye catching cover, McClelland knows exactly where to go when the water temperature passes the 50 degree mark.

“When I first start throwing the Trick Worm, I’m targeting the same areas I fish with a jerkbait in late winter—secondaries, channel swings and steeper banks—except just moving to the bank,” McClelland said. “As those deep, wintertime fish start to migrate and get ready for the spawn, it’s prime Trick Worm time.”

As spring progresses into the spawning period, he makes sure to avoid over complicating his approach. He targets generic spawning areas, but he doesn’t necessarily use the technique to sight fish.

“Anywhere you find typical spawning areas, such as sand and gravel flats, you can’t forget about the Trick Worm,” McClelland said. “Even if they’re not locked onto beds, they’ll swarm to these areas and roam around. A weightless Trick Worm is an outstanding way to catch those bass.”

Even after the spawn, in the post-spawn period, you’ll find him throwing Trick Worms to catch bass guarding newly hatched fry. The slow fall and subtle shimmy triggers big females’ protective instincts.

“Something about this bait really ticks off bass when they’re guarding their young,” McClelland said. “Some of my most aggressive strikes of the year come when I’m twitching a Trick Worm over fry in post-spawn areas.”

Ideal conditions

McClelland always considers throwing a Trick Worm throughout the entire spring but there are a few specific conditions that make it his go-to technique.

“One thing that makes me want to throw it more than anything is a cloudy, rainy and misty day,” McClelland said. “Something about that combination is just phenomenal. That’s not
to say they won’t bite it on a sunny day, but that’s absolutely an ideal scenario.”

Another phenomenon that has produced some great results for him is warm runoff. A lot of anglers get frustrated by spring’s seemingly never ending rain storms, but McClelland embraces them.

“If the bass are just starting to get shallow but aren’t all the way there yet, warm runoff from recent rains make them move up in a hurry,” McClelland said.

Water clarity has little or no influence on his decision to throw a floating worm. After catching several giant bass in water with as little as 5 inches of visibility, he doesn’t let nasty water deter him. He will, however, break out some “loud” colors such as Merthiolate, pink, white and yellow. Conversely, he’ll reach for more natural colors in clear water situations such as green pumpkin or watermelon red.

Presentation

As with many bass fishing techniques, there’s no concrete set of rules when it comes to effectively fishing a floating worm. McClelland is a strong believer in letting the bass tell you how they want it.

“You want to fish it slow in two specific situations—when the bass first move up to get ready for the spawn and when you’re fishing around possible bedding bass,” McClelland said. “I like to start out with a retrieve cadence similar to fishing a SPRO McStick jerkbait, just twitching it along and then letting it settle.”

When the water warms up into the high 60-degree range and post-spawn females begin guarding their fry, he speeds his retrieve considerably. Keeping the Trick Worm close to surface, he uses a presentation similar to a popular topwater technique.

“If I’m fishing a Trick Worm at a rapid pace close to the surface, I fish it just like I would fish a Heddon Spook,” McClelland said. “I use the same cadence in both my wrist and rod. You want it to just barely break the surface because that’s when you’ll get the majority of your strikes.”

When the time comes to set the hook, McClelland has two different strategies. If he’s fishing it close to the surface and sees the bass boil or flash on the bait, he never sets the hook immediately. Instead, he waits a few short seconds until he feels the fish in order to ensure a solid hookup. When fishing it slow, he waits for a “spongy” feeling and any added pressure on his line.

“If you swing hard on your hookset, you’re going to miss a lot of fish,” McClelland said. “Instead of jerking, simply lean into the fish and reel faster. That small adjustment will help you land a lot more big fish.”


Mike McClelland fishes floating worms shallow around available cover (photo courtesy of B.A.S.S./Seigo Saito)

Two ways to rig it

When McClelland suspects that the bass may be locked on to their beds, he primarily rigs his Trick Worms wacky style on a Gamakatsu Wicked Wacky Hook. Although it’s a fairly simple rig, he modifies it to achieve a better action.

“Nail weights are essential to catching more wacky rig fish,” McClelland said. “I’ll almost always put half of a lead nail weight into the head of the Trick Worm to help me cast it more accurately to bedding areas around bushes and laydowns. The nail weight helps it fall straight and only gets crazy when you start twitching it.”

If he’s covering water and looking for reaction strikes, McClelland uses a weightless Texas rig on a Gamakatsu Offset Round Bend Worm Hook. Keeping things simple, he primarily uses a 3/0 or 4/0 hook size, but when faced with pressured bass, he’ll downsize to a 2/0.

“When you rig the worm, it’s important to just skin hook the point of the hook into the backside of the worm,” McClelland said. “You don’t want to make yourself pull the hook through the entire worm—you just need to pop the hook point free on the hookset. To make sure it swims correctly, just be certain that the worm lies flat on the hook.”


Spinning or casting gear?

When throwing a wacky rigged Trick Worm, McClelland uses spinning gear in order to make more accurate presentations. To achieve maximum castability and line strength, he’s a big believer in 10-pound Sunline SX1 Braided Line for his main line with a 8 or 10-pound fluorocarbon leader. For precise casts, he prefers a shorter, 6-foot, 9-inch medium-action Falcon Cara T7 Spinning Rod with a 2500 Series Quantum Smoke PT Spinning Reel.

If conditions call for a weightless Texas rig, he tends to beef up his tackle a bit. Because he likes to throw this rig in heavier cover, he opts for 16-pound Sunline FC Reaction Fluorocarbon and a 6-foot, 7-inch medium-heavy Falcon LowRider XG Split-Grip Weightless Worm Rod.

“The Falcon Weightless Worm Rod is honestly the best Trick Worm rod you could ever possibly use,” McClelland said. “It’s helped me catch a ton of big fish.”

Now is a perfect time in much of the country to start throwing a Zoom Trick Worm. It’s by no means a new or fancy bass fishing technique, but if you follow McClelland’s suggestions, there’s a good chance you’ll stick some big bass with it this spring.













































































Finesse Fishing for Spawning Bass

  
  
  
  
  
  
Shaw Grigsby Unhooking Bass

Break out the spinning gear for hot bed fishing action, according to Shaw Grigsby


By Walker Smith

Spawning bass give anglers the opportunity to catch some of the year’s biggest fish. As big females make their way to the shallows to deposit their eggs, their protective instincts make them especially vulnerable to big, bulky soft plastic baits. What happens, however, when you can’t get that monster bass to bite?

FIRST pro Shaw Grigsby doesn’t let stubborn bedding bass get the best of him. Instead, he simply downsizes his tackle to coax them into biting.

When to go finesse

Catching spawning bass on stout tackle and 60-pound braided line is certainly fun, but Grigsby allows each individual fish to tell him whether or not to downsize his offering.

“Fish are very individualistic creatures,” Grigsby said. “Some are very protective and will eat anything while others are more passive. When you encounter those very timid, skittish fish on bed, you’ll probably have to catch them with finesse gear.”

To determine whether or not a spawning bass is skittish, Grigsby pays close attention to their movements and demeanor. Although it’s not always as simple as it sounds, he has developed a general rule-of-thumb to determine his approach.

“You can never really tell ahead of time whether or not you’re going to have to finesse them,” Grigsby said. “But if that fish just stays in once place watching your bait, you can probably catch them with heavier equipment. When the big female blisters out of there when I make my first cast, I back off a bit and break out my finesse gear.”

The most important thing to decipher when determining how to approach a spawning bass is the cycle of the spawn. Grigsby has noticed a direct correlation between bass behavior and the period in which they lay their eggs.

“Late spawners are notorious for being more finicky than early spawners,” Grigsby said. “If you’re targeting these spawning bass within 3 or 4 days of them laying eggs, they’re generally very aggressive and fairly easy to catch. The later it gets, however, the less protective the females are. When they’re not as protective, finesse fishing is the way to go.”

The secret weapon

Grigsby’s favorite finesse bed fishing rig is a St
rike King KVD Perfect Plastic Caffeine Shad. Although many anglers don’t pay much attention to swimbaits for bed fishing, this bait has made him a big believer.

“The Caffeine Shad is one of my primary bed fishing baits—it even caught a 10-pounder for me during the Harris Chain event that I won,” Grigsby said. “I threw everything I had at her and she wouldn’t react to it, but she inhaled the Caffeine Shad.”

Since it’s a swimbait, it would make sense to swim it through the bed, right? He’s caught plenty of bedding bass swimming the Caffeine Shad, but has noticed the biggest bass are more apt to attack a bait that poses more of a threat.

“When you put a light bullet weight on the Caffeine Shad, it looks just like a bream sitting nose-down in a bass bed feeding on eggs, which drives a big female absolutely nuts,” Grigsby said. “A big bedding bass doesn’t take kindly to bream, especially when they’re feeding on its eggs, which makes this bait a phenomenal choice.”

Drop shot

When spawning bass are especially stubborn, Grigsby won’t hesitate to throw a drop shot in a bed. It’s lively presentation seems to coax bass into biting when bulkier baits fail.

“The drop shot is a big player in my bed fishing arsenal,” Grigsby said. “The way it’s rigged gives the bait a really live action because it just suspends over the bed and slowly flutters down with slack line.”

In ultra-clear fisheries, Grigsby throws his drop shot rig on 6 or 8-pound Seaguar InvizX fluorocarbon. Although it may seem a bit lite for targeting big fish, it’s all about how you fight the fish once it’s taken the bait.

“You absolutely cannot horse a drop shot fish—especially one that’s bedding in shallow water,” Grigsby said. “It’s important to remember in this situation that the bass has you—you don’t have the bass. Set the drag fairly loose and just let her do what she wants to do.”

Light Texas rig or shaky head


Grigsby has also had a lot of bed fishing success on light Texas rigs and shaky heads. Downsizing to 8 or 10-pound test and using a smaller weight, such as a 1/8-ounce or 1/16-ounce, is often all that’s needed to convince otherwise suspicious bass to bite.

When selecting a soft plastic bait to use on this rig, Grigsby wants something small and soft for a very specific reason.

“I love using a Strike King KVD Perfect Plastic Finesse Worm in these situations,” Grigsby said. “Sure, it’s small and dainty, but that doesn’t mean it won’t catch a huge bass. I like using a small finesse worm because when they pick it up to move it off of the bed, they’re more likely to grab the hook.”

For the business end of the rig, he primarily uses a 3/0 or 4/0 Lazer Trokar TK 110 hook. It’s important to have a thin, light wire hook that penetrates both the bait and the fish easily to avoid break-offs with the light line.

“You don’t want to wail away with a giant hookset on such a small, finesse rig,” Grigsby said. “That’s why a really sharp hook is an absolute necessity in this situation.”

Modified split shot rig

Traditional split shot rigs are fairly self-explanatory with a simple split shot weight clamped about a foot above the hook. This old school bed fishing method has its benefits, but Grigsby modifies it with a more new school approach.

“Those split shot weights just don’t come through cover well enough for me,” Grigsby said. “As a result, I like to take a light bullet weight and peg it about 10 or 12 inches above the hook. It’s kind of like a miniature Carolina rig, except without the swivels.”

The split shot rig has some of the same appeal that the drop shot does. As the weight rests on the bottom, the bait hovers above the bed, emulating an impending threat to the bass’ bed. When a bass strikes the rig, it’s important to set the hook after retrieving your slack line and feeling the weight—just like a Carolina rig.

As you’re on the lookout for spawning bass this spring, make sure to bring your finesse gear with you. It goes against the mindset of many anglers, but finesse bed fishing is hugely helpful in getting those stubborn bass to bite.




































































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