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Dyeing Soft Plastic Bass Lures in the Spring

  
  
  
  
  
  
dyeing plastics with dip and markers

Russ Lane adds color to his plastics for all phases of the spawn


By Walker Smith

Spring is known for excellent bass fishing, but there’s an underutilized technique that can easily turn good fishing days into outstanding ones. As anglers target the shallows in hopes of intercepting big, transitioning bass, Big Bite Baits pro Russ Lane does the same—with one minor difference. During all phases of the spawn, he’s a huge believer in dyeing soft plastic bass lures.

While many of us only reach for our bottles of dye when faced with short-striking bass, Lane has developed a solid soft plastic dyeing system that produces more bites and bigger fish.   

Prespawn

Throughout most of the country, prespawn water clarity is often limited. With abundant winter precipitation muddying many fisheries, Lane looks to a specific dye color to combat the cold, murky water.

“If I’m fishing dirty water in the 50-degree range, I put orange dye on all of my plastics,” Lane said. “More times than not, I catch prespawn fish that spit up orange and red crawfish pinchers, which tells me they’re primarily feeding on crawfish.”

Not only does Lane look for crawfish in the mouths of these bass, but he also inspects the color of their mouths. When he notices their crushers and teeth stained red or yellow, he knows it’s time to break out the orange dye.

“Whether I’m flipping and pitching a Big Bite Baits Russ Lane YoDaddy or using a Big Bite Baits Chunk, I just dip the pinchers in the dye,” Lane said. “It’s a perfect imitation of a crawfish and it gets me a ton of extra bites.”

Spawn

When the water temperature hits the 60-degree mark and the bass start to get locked onto their beds, Lane still dyes his plastics, but he opts for a different color. Although it’s a subtle change, it makes a big difference in his success.

“I use chartreuse dye on all of my plastics when I’m bed fishing,” Lane said. “Just a little bit of chartreuse on the tail helps trigger a lot of aggression from bass protecting their beds from bluegill and bream.”

While the chartreuse dye generates more aggressive strikes from bedding fish, it also aids in his ability to see the bait. Dark-colored soft plastics can be tough to see when bed fishing, but the added color helps Lane detect bites faster, resulting in more fish catches.

Post spawn

As the bass finish spawning, sunfish, such as bream and shell crackers, move into the shallows to do the very same thing. During this time period, Lane continues using chartreuse dye, but for a very different reason.

“When sunfish get on bed, their colors get really bright and their yellow tails are highly visible,” Lane said. “Female post spawn bass will often stay in the shallows to feed on them, so a Big Bite Baits WarMouth or Big Bite Baits Russ Lane Coontail Worm with a chartreuse-dyed tail fished around bluegill beds is a great way to catch some big post spawn bass.”

As spring winds down, Lane still utilizes chartreuse dye, but becomes more selective. When the bass first move to their summer dwellings, such as humps and river ledges, a Big Bites Kreit Tail Worm dipped in chartreuse works wonders for him.

“If the water clarity is less than 2 feet, I always use chartreuse dye to give the bass a better look at the bait,” Lane said. “In clear water, however, I prefer more natural colors unless there’s a lot of cloud cover.”

As you knock the dust off of your fishing gear this spring and head out to enjoy warmer temperatures and spawning bass, make sure to remember your soft plastic dye—sometimes the smallest modifications yield the biggest results.











































The Right Color Palette for My Fish Finder

  
  
  
  
  
  
Palletes on electronics

By Jason Sealock

More than we need. That's often what comes on a lot of the latest gadgets and gizmos. But if you're like me, you have techno-joy and love that most things, especially our fishing electronics, come with more than we think we need. Probably the most frequent question folks ask involves choosing the best color palette for my fish finder.

Fortunately a lot of the options available to us in fishing have more to do with personal taste than scientific reasoning. The color of a crankbait that I think is magical might look like barf to another angler. With the color palettes on Side Scan, Down Scan and sonar, anglers can choose the best palette based on several variables including:

•    Eyesight
•    Daylight
•    Bottom Composition
•    Cover

One critical factor to remember is that as you change color palettes you need to pay attention to your sensitivity and contrast. They need to be adjusted for each palette so you're getting the clearest picture in that palette.

Seeing is believing

A big variable from angler to angler has nothing to do with personal preference but rather our own makeup. Eyesight comes and goes with age. Some of us were blessed with poor eyesight from the get go. Some of us see only grey. Some of us can't discern between certain color palettes and shades. For this reason, there are several options for varying eye sights from black and white to bright green or red.

"Guys that are color blind often choose options 1 and 2, the black and white palettes, on their Lowrance HDS units," said Chris Meyer, Dealer Trainer and Field Tester for Lowrance. "I prefer 6 and 9 on the Gen 2 Units and palette 7 on the new Touch units. But that's the beauty of it. It's a personal preference and there are enough options that someone who sees red better than green might have a better view with one palette or the other."

Dawn to dusk

At certain times of the day certain color palettes seem to be more visible. In low light, the brighter palettes like the greens, reds and blues seem more visible. In direct sunlight it seems like the browns and oranges and light blue is real visible.

Bugs become a common problem at dusk and into the night. When this is the case, Meyer switches his graph to the bright green screen and the bugs are not attracted to your graphs like they are with big white or light backgrounds.

Identifying objects

Since contrast needs to be adjusted depending on the color palette, it stands to reason certain things on the bottom  tend to show up better in certain palettes. Rocks show up well on the darker palettes while wood shows up better on your fish finder's lighter palettes.

[READ: Clean Up Your Fish Finder's Picture]

Do more

On sonar I simply choose Palette 1 on my Lowrance HDS units. Yellow is hard, blue is soft and it keeps it all pretty simple.

But I do change palettes more with side imaging depending on how bright it is outside, how fatigued my eyes are from staring at a screen, how bad the bugs are in low light conditions, and what I'm actually looking for on the bottom. As I do I constantly keep an eye on my contrast to make sure areas aren't blown out as I switch palettes.

You spend a lot of money for good fish finders these days and you need to get the most out of them. You can see bass others miss just by having your units optimized and doing more than just one thing.


Take this image for example. I got in on a steep ledge a few weeks ago I was scanning with one palette and felt like I wasn't seeing it all, so I switched colors and bumped the sensitivity actually down with the contrast option and saw some fish suspended right off the break in the shadow of the rocks.

I spun the boat around fired my bait into the area and proceeded to catch 8 bass in a row that were suspending off the ledge over open water.  Right as my bait cleared the ledge, a fish jumped all over it. I would have missed those fish if I hadn't made a slight change at the right time. Today's depth finders / chartplotters can improve your fishing a lot and you owe it to yourself to do more with them.

















































Warm on the Water | Keeping Your Core Cozy

  
  
  
  
  
  
ColdBassFishing


Two simple ideas to keep the warmth in and the cold out

By Walker Smith

Unless you have the ability to pay hundreds of dollars for state of the art gear, staying warm while fishing can seem difficult. Not only is it simply uncomfortable to have a permanent chill in your spine during your time on the water, but it also makes simple tasks, such as knot tying, a pain. If the cold keeps you from chasing big winter bass, there are 2 simple and inexpensive things you can do to maintain a warm core temperature.

Hand warmers in your wrist bands


Many anglers use hand warmers to keep their hands warm on the water. More often than not, however, I’ve found hand warmers to be a very temporary relief. Sure—they feel good when you’ve got them in your gloves, but they get annoying eventually and end up stuffed in my jacket, never to be used again.

To combat this problem, I like to put these hand warmers under the wrist band of my sweatshirt, directly on the underside of my wrist. The veins in your wrist are a major highway for blood, and when you warm those veins, your blood also warms up and pumps into the rest of your body.

Keeping these hand warmers out of your gloves allows you to firmly hold your rod, therefore increasing sensitivity, while also freeing your hands for knot tying, fish handling and lure modifications.

If you’re having problems keeping the hand warmers in place, simply wrap them loosely with athletic tape. Be careful not to wrap them too tightly, and if it feels too hot on your skin, remove them immediately.
 
HeatWraps on your back


Nothing is more uncomfortable than leaning over in cold weather, exposing your bare back to the elements. If you thought you were cold before, you’ll be miserable in a hurry if this happens. Once that chill gets to you, it’s hard to get rid of. To avoid this situation, here's a little secret a duck-hunting buddy gave me.

Get some HeatWraps at your local drug store and wear them on your lower back while you’re on the water. Depending on what’s comfortable, you can either put them directly on your skin or over a thin first layer. They don’t get too hot, but provide the perfect amount of warmth to keep your core temperature at a reasonable level.

HeatWraps come with an adjustable and reusable fabric wrap that doesn’t itch or dig into your skin. When worn correctly, they won’t ride up when you cast or move around the boat—you’ll forget you’re wearing them. If you’re the thrifty type, most major drug stores carry generic brands that are available for nearly half the price.

Don’t let the cold weather scare you away from bass fishing this winter. Whether you’re on the ice or the open water this winter, these quick and inexpensive tips can make your fishing days much more enjoyable. Stay tuned for more tips on keeping warm!





























Five for 5 | Five Reader Submitted Tackle Tweaks

  
  
  
  
  
  
TackleModification



Tackle modifications that will help you catch more fish

By Walker Smith

One of the best parts of our job is when we have the privilege of communicating with our readers. We read every email and comment from our readers and we always appreciate and enjoy your feedback. Just as we hope to keep our readers up-to-date on the latest fishing information, we often learn some pretty cool tips from our fans as well. In the past few months, several of our readers have commented on our feature pieces with their own tackle modification ideas.

Being the bass fishing addicts that we are, we’ve tried many of these ideas and have been impressed with the functionality and simplicity of them. In order to keep you “in the know”, we have compiled a list of some of our readers’ simple ideas that will help you get the most out of your fishing day.

Double split rings on jerkbaits


Try adding an extra split ring to your hook in place of a longer shank! I do this on my jerkbaits and it works just fine.
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:21 AM by Michael Clifford on Short-Shank vs. Long-Shank Treble Hooks

Not every angler has the available tackle to quickly switch from short-shank to long-shank hooks—and that’s totally fine. If you’ve ever experienced the heartache and frustration of multiple short strikes when fishing with your favorite jerkbait, you may want to consider adding an additional split ring to it.

Just as a long-shank hook allows for better hookups on a jerkbait, double split rings will serve the same purpose if you don’t have a wide selection of treble hooks to choose from. In addition to giving the bass a better opportunity to get hooked, doubling up your split rings is also a great way to alter the buoyancy of your jerkbait in different water temperatures and conditions.

Spinnerbait blade dye for hooks


Red hooks are dyed red and it doesn’t take long for the red to come off of the hook, so get a bottle of red blade dye—you can dip the hook in the dye without taking the hook off the bait.
Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2012 8:44 AM by Larry on When and Why to Use Red Hooks for Bass Fishing

With the right water clarity and sunlight, red hooks are a great way to get extra bites when the fishing is tough. It’s not always easy to get your hands on the right size or style of red hooks, but don’t worry—red spinnerbait blade dye makes for a very effective hook dye as well.

If you’re fighting the battle against short strikes, especially in time-sensitive situations, it’s a hassle to rummage through your terminal tackle box, untangle a big ball of sharp hooks and replace them all. Red blade dye saves a lot of time by allowing you to keep the hook on the bait and simply dip it into the dye—it’s that simple.

Don’t be concerned about the dye dulling the hook points, either. Blade dye is formulated to be extremely thin as to not alter the weight of spinnerbait blades. When you experiment with this modification, you’ll notice that the blade dye is no thicker than water.


Coffee stirrer in the tail of a Zoom Ultravibe Speed Worm


To get the paddle tail or any plastic worm tail up off the bottom, insert a thin, plastic coffee stirrer in the tail section. This creates an air pocket, raising the tail slightly off the bottom while giving the extra action often needed to entice a strike.
Posted on Friday, December 21, 2012 8:37 AM by Richard Ziert on Four Ways to Fish a Zoom Ultravibe Speed Worm

This simple tackle tweak can make a big difference on the water, especially when targeting pressured bass. As if the Ultravibe Speed Worm doesn’t make enough racket in the water, inserting a simple coffee stirrer into the tail of the worm will make it irresistible to big bass. To make it easier to insert the stirrer, simply dip it in the water to minimize any tearing.

Whether you’re fishing the UV Speed Worm weightless, Texas rigged or on a shaky head, this handy modification will get more bites. Not only does the coffee stirrer allow the tail to float when at rest, but it also creates a ton of bubbles as you drag or swim the bait in the water. Several of the best grass lake anglers have been doing this for years with consistent success.

Feathered treble hooks on walking topwaters


Great article! I also love to use walking topwater lures. I often change out the rear treble with a feathered treble hook to increase chances of a good hook up.
Posted on Friday, October 05, 2012 9:44 AM by David J. Gutierrez on Big Walking Topwaters in the Early Fall

There’s something about a feathered treble hook on the back of a topwater bait that big bass simply cannot ignore. In the fall and spring, bass see a plethora of topwater baits whizzing overhead every day and eventually become wise to them. In order to differentiate your offering from others, adding a feathered treble hook to the back of the bait can draw strikes from even the most finicky bass.

Because many bites on walking topwater baits can come while the bait is paused, feathered trebles are a great way to add a little more action to the bait while it’s at rest. As the bait sits in the water, the feathers quiver and pulsate with the movement of the water, making it a tantalizing addition to any topwater bait.

Loop knot for “walking the dog”


A Loop knot also makes “walking the dog” easier for me.
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 4:40 PM by Rollie Van Cleave on Big Walking Topwaters in the Early Fall

“Walking the dog” is an age-old technique that has caught big fish for years. Although it is possible to execute this retrieve with a generic Palomar knot, many anglers prefer a loop knot instead. Because the loop knot allows the bait to move more freely, anglers are able to perform a wide-walking presentation with the slightest twitch of the rod tip.

If you’re just learning this technique or if you’re tired of jerking your shoulder out of socket to make your favorite topwater walk, this simple tweak is a must-try in our book.

We cannot thank our readers enough for the constant support and feedback over the years. As we continue to do everything in our power to help you become better anglers, we hope that you keep the lines of communication open with more awesome tips and suggestions. Thank you for being Wired2Fish!
































































Technology Tip | Clean Up Your Fish Finder's Image

  
  
  
  
  
  


By Jason Sealock

I've been talking electronics a lot with anglers the last month or so, and I am learning that a lot of fishermen have anxiety when it comes to how to use electronics when fishing. Maybe anxiety is not the right word, but they are just overwhelmed with all the settings, so they end up doing nothing except turning the graphs on and off.

Luckily for anglers, the technology is so good in fishing depth finders and chart plotters today that they work really well out of the box. But they work a whole lot better if you make a few changes to your settings to get a clear picture.

Sonar is a massively cool technology, and to me side scanning and down scanning are two even cooler technologies. Most anglers who fish from a boat have some sort of sonar, so we'll start there and save the side scan and down scan tweaks for another article.

Sonar sends a ping down to the bottom and receives the "bounce back." The softer the bottom the less return or bounce back the transducer gets from the ping. The harder the bottom or object in the cone of the ping, the more return you will get. These "returns" are then interpreted and plotted on a digital screen.  

Think about it like this. Go scream in your pillow. You don't hear much. Now go stand next to the wall in your bedroom and scream at it. There is a much louder echo or "return" on your scream.

In essence what you are doing when tweaking your sonar settings is trying to capture as much return on the ping as you can. The sonar has to receive its signal amidst a multitude of interfering objects like boat turbulence from an outboard, waves, water density, sediment stirred up, other objects in the water reflecting noise, and other units on "pinging" in the same area.

It's a wonder we can see anything at all on our graphs. So I'm all about clearing up my picture when on the water so I'm not missing anything when I'm hunting fish, whatever the species.


The first thing I do to my sonar settings is set the range for the depth I'm fishing. The graph can change up and down automatically as you change depths. But if I'm only concerned about bass shallower than 40 feet and I'm fishing in 25 feet of water. I want to see the bottom but I want the full screen focused on the area I'm fishing. I don't always trust my graph to give me the full picture. Sometimes it will set it automatically to 60 feet even though I'm fishing in 30 feet. So I just manually set it to 40 and I'm rock solid fishing in depth.

Next I will bump up the sensitivity. It's probably set to Auto by default but you can manually set it to whatever level you want. To me there is no magic number. I start around 75% and work up from there. I will go up and down and watch my screen as I do to see if I'm suddenly seeing baitfish I was missing or bass or cover or if I'm just getting a lot of noise on my screen. When I find that happy medium I will go with that for a while. Different fisheries or times of the year might require different sensitivity settings.

On my Lowrance Unit I have the option to also adjust the colorline. The color line can tell you a lot about how dense something is that you're seeing on your sonar. Again I start by moving the colorline slider up and down until  I think I am getting the clearest picture. I want to be able to see those yellow-bellied bass easily on my graph.

After I'm getting a good picture with sensitivity and colorline, I will then make sure I've only got one transducer pinging at a time in my boat. I have two units in my boat. When I pull my trolling motor. I punch the stop sonar quick key on my HDS 8. For two reasons. I don't want my transducer pinging into outer space as I run to my next spot because the transducer sometimes has a hard time locking back onto the bottom when I drop the trolling motor at the next location. By stopping and starting my ping on the transducer, it locks on immediately and I can start fishing instantly without being frustrated waiting for the sonar to figure out again that it's in the water.

The other thing I do as I move to the front deck to fish is reach down and punch the Power button on the console unit and click the Standby option. That standby option turns the back graph off without turning it off. Basically it shuts down the transducers without powering down the unit. So you can quickly get scanning again at the touch of a button but you won't have all the noise that can be caused by two graphs pinging in the same small area. The clutter is amazing as you can see in this picture.


The last thing I will do is set my noise rejection and surface clarity settings. The fact of the matter for me is I'm not looking for individual fish in 2 feet of water. So I really don't care what's immediately under the surface. I will set my noise rejection to low and surface clarity to low. And I end up getting a very clear picture when I'm fishing. I can see my lures when I drop them right under the transducer. I can watch fish literally react to my lures on the screen and work a cat and mouse game on the graph until the fish bites.

Lots of good anglers successfully vertically fish much like one would ice fishing except they do it from the bow of their boat. Having a clear picture is the key. You spent a bunch of money for tools to help you find the fish, so you owe it to yourself to get the most out of them. And remember there is no one right setting. You need to continually change your settings to get the best picture as you move from deep to shallow or change areas where more clutter may be prominent or you're getting harder or softer returns.







































Selecting the Proper Spinnerbait Blade

  
  
  
  
  
  
SpinnerbaitBass
The choice between one, two or three blades is an important one, according to Marty Stone

By Walker Smith

Spinnerbait blade selection is something that has baffled many bass anglers for years. If you walk down the aisles of your favorite tackle store, you’re sure to see enough blade combinations to make your head spin. While different blade combinations will certainly work in various conditions, there is a method to the madness according to Vicious Fishing pro Marty Stone.

Stone has developed very specific preferences when it comes to blade selection and has caught countless big bass using this system. Regardless of water clarity and weather, there is never a doubt in his mind when it comes to selecting the proper spinnerbait blade combination.

Single blade

Stone reaches for his single blade spinnerbaits in two situations—when night fishing or targeting prespawn bass. Although he’ll change the blade size and spinnerbait weight to accommodate specific conditions, he believes that a single blade is the way to go in these conditions.


When he finds himself on the water after dark, Stone instinctively turns to a 1/2-ounce black spinnerbait with a gold No. 6 Colorado blade. As the bass’ nighttime vision is significantly inhibited, a big Colorado blade allows them to sense the intense vibrations with their lateral lines.

“A big no. 6 Colorado blade is the only blade you need to throw when you’re night fishing,” Stone said. “It causes all kinds of vibration underwater and the bass really seem to hone in on the massive water displacement caused by a big, single Colorado blade.”

To coax these nighttime bass into eating, he likes to slowly fish it close to the bottom of the water column. Stone’s not afraid to slow his presentation down to a crawl, either, as he catches many of his biggest bass while slowly dragging the big spinnerbait around isolated cover.

An equally effective application for single-bladed spinnerbaits is during cloudy prespawn days. In this situation, Stone tempts the bass with a 3/4-ounce spinnerbait paired with a no. 7 Colorado blade. Although effective, a few specific variables have to be in place in order to maximize his effectiveness.

“There has to be hydrilla and flooded cover, such as willows and buck brush, present,” Stone said. “I wish I could say why, but I truthfully don’t know. After all the fishing I’ve done, I’ve pieced things together and it’s just lights-out under these conditions.”

Whenever conditions call for a single-bladed spinnerbait, Stone likes to beef up his tackle a bit in order to counteract the heavier spinnerbait. For added strength, he prefers 20-pound monofilament line with a 7-foot, medium-heavy action rod. When a big bass bites, the stout gear gives him the confidence to get the fish into the boat.

Double blades

As with any technique, a number of conditions dictate when and where Stone utilizes double-bladed spinnerbaits. Although several variables come into play, water temperature is his main focus when selecting a spinnerbait with double blades.


In stained water below 55-degrees, stone prefers a 1/2-ounce spinnerbait with no. 3 and no. 4 1/2 Colorado blades. Again, in low-visibility conditions, bass need something, such as a big vibration, to help them hone in on the bait. Stone believes the no. 4 1/2 Colorado blades to be absolutely essential in these situations.

“The biggest mistake I see people make when spinnerbait fishing in cold water is winding the bait too fast, causing the bait to rise too high in the water column” Stone said. “In cold water, you want both Colorado blades to be entirely out of sight. When you’ve got that, you know you have the right retrieve speed.”

As the water warms to between 55- and 60-degrees, the large majority of Stone’s spinnerbait success comes on a Colorado and willow leaf combination. As the shad become more active in this temperature range, the willow leaf blade lets Stone significantly increase his retrieve speed while also effectively emulating a small shad.

While he does, in fact, fish a spinnerbait faster in these conditions, Stone still keeps a watchful eye on the bait. In order to increase his number of bites, he doesn’t want to see the blades. Because some bass may remain a bit hesitant in this temperature range, Stone aims to keep his spinnerbait in the strike zone for as long as possible.


Whenever the early morning water temperature rises to 65-degrees, Stone has one thing on his mind—shad. To target bass gorging on plentiful populations of shad, he uses twin willow leaf blades. With the decreased water displacement of willow blades, Stone is able to burn his spinnerbait to imitate fleeing shad. As the two previous double blade combinations are meant to target both a bass’ sense of feel and sight, Stone believes a double willow leaf combination to be solely a “sight” presentation for bass.

“I primarily throw a twin willow leaf spinnerbait throughout both the shad spawn and post spawn,” Stone said. “Points and rip rap are major hotspots in these conditions, and water clarity doesn’t seem to matter as much. If you get around a lot of shad in this water temperature range, the bass will try to take your rod from you.”

Triple blades

Every angler has superior confidence in a couple of specific baits, and Marty Stone is no different. When the money is on the line, you won’t be hard-pressed to find a triple hatchet blade spinnerbait on his front deck. A totally different look for most highly pressured bass, hatchet blades create a unique thumping vibration in the water while also maintaining the subtlety of willow leaf blades.


Stone throws a spinnerbait with triple hatchet blades in two conditions—the first thing in the morning on a sunny day or all day in nasty, rainy conditions. Come to think of it, that’s pretty much most of the time, right?

“I am absolutely convinced that triple hatchet blades catch more spinnerbait fish than any other blade you could possible use,” Stone said. “I’m not sure if it’s because the bass don’t see them as often or because I have so much confidence in them, but I’m telling you—they work.”

Selecting the proper spinnerbait blade combinations can be pretty tough and requires a lot of trial and error. Patience is key, however, and if you keep an open mind and make it a point to experiment with different combinations in various conditions, you’ll soon have a concrete, failsafe system just like the pros.  


























































8 Lures You Need in Your Winter Bass Fishing Box

  
  
  
  
  
  
Wintertime bass fishing




My most productive non-ice fishing lures for winter time bass fishing

By Jason Sealock

You're scraping ice off the windshield, as the truck sputters and grumpily tries to warm its interior. Breathing in exhaust fumes as cold chills pulse down your spine as you hook the trailer to the hitch. The nose begins what will be a full day trickle as your ears already burn from the frost trying to adhear to your lobes. The allure of big lumbering sluggish bass in icy cold water fills your brain as you scramble to the cab of the truck. It's winter time, and surprisingly some bass anglers hate it.

To an extent, all anglers probably fall victim to "rut fishing" at some point throughout the year, and winter can be the worst time to be in a rut about how you approach your fishing. A few simple facts will hopefully give you better perspective and hopefully some tips on tackle will make your quest to catch bass a little easier this winter.

First, bass don't need to feed every day. There metabolisms slow to a crawl and they don't need as much coal for their furnace so to speak. So they don't have to eat as much or as often. That makes smaller baits a good option or extremely slow moving big baits that they don't need to run down to satisfy a week's worth of food requirements.

Second, bass group up and spend a good portion of their winter motionless. They populate an area that has food and deep water nearby and hover there until early spring. So spend time looking for deep concentrations of bait, cover and bass and realize fish use the smallest percentage of the lake of any other time of the year.

Now for the good news. Bass do eat in the winter. They stay near the bait because they need to eat. Also, they stay with their friends, so if one bass isn't eating today, chances are a buddy right next to him is. They are very keyed into shad this time of year and the shad can be struggling to stay alive if the water temperatures are dipping into the low 40s. So while they are looking for those injured dying shad, they won't pass up a slow crawling craw right in their face either. They are still opportunists and will seek to eat whatever they can in close proximity.

Having addressed their "tendencies," here are my 8 choices for targeting and catching sluggish cold water bass and some tips on how to make them more effective.


Deep suspending jerkbaits

I spent a lot of time watching shad die in the winter when I fished on clear water fisheries like Table Rock and Beaver Lakes in the Ozark Mountains. These shad would kick and pause, flutter and float and sometimes sink slowly out of sight. I've incorporated mimicking this kick-and-float behavior into chasing winter bass with deep diving suspending jerkbaits. A Lucky Craft Staysee, a SPRO McRip, Megbass Ito Vision 110+1 and a Jackall DD Squirrel all do a great job of twitching and jerking in water 8-12 feet deep. The sound, flash and water displacement in clear water can all lead big bass out of deep haunts to grab a quick easy meal.

Tip: I sometimes weight my jerkbaits so they will slowly sink. When I know I'm fishing for bass deeper than 10 feet over much deeper water, I actually like for my jerkbait to mimic those shad I saw dying for many years on other fisheries. I will add lead golfers tape or a few extra split rings to make my deep suspending jerkbaits slowly sink after a rip or pull so they look like a shad struggling to stay afloat.


Blade bait

A blade bait is a dynamite lure for stair-stepping down steep 45 degree banks into the zones bass are holding. Where a spoon derives its action after the hop or pull as it flutters on the fall, a blade bait attracts on the actual rip and drop.

Tip: I will fish a blade bait like a lipless rattling bait and just slowly wind it along, hoping it bumps a rock or two. I think the subtle vibration, couple with the clinking and clacking over rocks, draws those deep bass in for a closer look and the slow crawl is easy for them to run down.


Jigging spoon

A jigging spoon has been a staple over the years for deep wintering fish. It looks like nothing, but it casts like a rock, gets to the bottom and into the strike zone with blazing speed and can be worked in place easily on a vertical presentation with a simple snap and fall on slack line.

Tip: Slack is critical so learn to drop or cast the spoon and watch your line as it falls. Think it stopped too early, reel up fast and set the hook. See your line jump, set the hook. I often cast out a few yards from the boat and hop it around to cover a small circular area where I think the bass are holding and being out away from the boat helps me watch my slack a little easier as well.


Tail spinner

Another deep small hunk of lead with some flash, a tail spinner has been a hot ticket in Texas lake in colder years. The ability to hop it, wind it, pump it and work it various ways both near the bottom and up in the strike zone make this simple tear drop lure a dynamite presentation.

Tip: I use a lighter one a lot of the time to get a slower fall in the winter. I think a lighter weight really lets the blade work and you can keep the bait in their strike zone for a much longer period on each cast, which is critical in the winter.


Under spins with shad tails

When you are fishing deep flats, a lure you can cast and wind slowly along the bottom or up off the bottom if you find the bass suspended can be the ticket. Something like a Sworming Hornet or a Buckeye SuSpin with a small swimbait or shad tail like the Optimum Opti Shad or Basstrix can easily mimic a shad in cold water that might have a slight stain to it.

Tip: Super glue is your friend. Super glue the swim tail to the head and you can fish all day with one tail and head, well at least for a lot more fish than you would otherwise. And a pumping and stop and go retrieve can also trigger bass who might slowly lumber behind but never strike.


Grub

A grub is such a simple and old faithful lure, that many anglers totally forget about them. Fact is, this bait really shines when the water is ultra cold. I've caught bass in water below 40 degrees on a grub and 1/4 ounce jighead. When bass suspend in vertical cover, a grub can be a dynamite lure to catch those otherwise stationary bass. Wind it slowly and methodically and most bites will just feel like a little pressure as you wind it.

Tip: Small diameter line helps keep the lure down and swimming steady through the water. The lure doesn't weigh much so heavier line causes it to rise too much. I like some of the new grubs like the Strike King Rage Tail grub or Zoom Fat Albert that put out a lot of vibration.


Casting jig

One of my favorite ways to catch smallmouths this time of year, is casting to 45 degree banks and steep points and bluffs with a casting jig. Something like a Cumberland Pro Lures Pro Caster or a Stan Sloan's Booza Bug are ideal for this technique. I will tip the jigs with a Zoom Chunk or Zoom Super Chunk Jr.–something with flat appendages that undulate more than twist and thump.

Tip: I'm normally fishing this on fairly open rocky banks with occasional stumps or laydowns. So I will opt for very light line like 10 to 12 pound fluorocarbon. The lighter line gives the bait better depth control and I think the fish look at a jig this time of year longer than other times of the year before biting. So I want to stack the deck in my favor with very natural presentations, trimmed skirts, natural chunk  colors to give the bass a real meal looking profile.


Drop shot

I've definitely built up a lot of confidence with a drop shot over the last decade. And I just smile when I hear guys tell me bass won't bite plastics in cold water. They will bite the right plastic. Especially if presented in a very realistic manner. The bass are often tight to the bottom so I will keep my leader lengths fairly short and I will let the drop shot sit for long periods. I still want to butt it up against a rock or a stump and work it painfully slow around an isolated object. But sometimes just barely flicking the tail is all the action it needs.

Tip: Choose a bait that gives you more of an undulating or vibrating tail action. I think a bait with a slightly thicker body and tapered tail gives you that tail vibration or whip you need for cold deep water bass.  I really like the new Strike King KVD Dream Shot and the new Berkley Twitchtail Minnow for cold bass.














































































When and Why to Use Red Hooks for Bass Fishing

  
  
  
  
  
  
RedTrebleBass2

See why Marty Stone likes to add a front red treble hook to his shallow running Bandit crankbaits.

Red hooks really do have an application in bass fishing, according to Marty Stone

Photos and Article by Walker Smith

If you’re like us, you don’t have enough fingers or toes to count the number of times you’ve heard fellow anglers banter back and forth about the effectiveness, or perceived lack thereof, of red hooks. You’ll find a couple of them scattered about in random compartments of many anglers’ boats, but most of us never pay them much attention. Truth be told, I only buy red hooks when I’m in a rush to the lake and the local tackle shop is out of black hooks. Sure, they look sexy, but do fish really care what color hook you’re using?

A recent conversation with bass fishing legend Jimmy Houston has turned Vicious Fishing pro Marty Stone into a bona fide believer in red hooks. Under the right conditions, he has had some monster days with his Daiichi Bleeding Bait hooks. Recently, Stone shed some light on the colored hook conundrum and provided us with a lot of interesting food for thought.

The marketing misnomer

Remember when red fishing line was the big talk in the fishing industry? As a young teenager, I thought it was the bee’s knees, guaranteed to turn me into a pro overnight. The allure of red line was simple—the fish couldn’t see it, and when your line is virtually invisible, you’re going to catch a lot more fish.

Now, let’s look at it from an alternative perspective. While many fishing line companies were adamant that their red line was indiscernible, there were some hook companies claiming their red hooks to be the ultimate difference maker on the water.

So let’s get this straight—red line is invisible, but red hooks make bass more apt to attack a bait? At this point, it doesn’t really matter who was wrong or right. Common knowledge would lead us to believe that someone, whether it was the line companies or the hook manufacturers, had to be wrong. Not so fast, says Stone.

Seeing red

Stone got the answer he had been looking for during a recent conversation with Jimmy Houston, who had taken part in a light penetration study. His findings were interesting, to say the least.


“In water of normal stain, considered to be 12- to 24-inches of visibility, a red hook is, indeed, very visible from 5-feet or less,” said Stone. “On the contrary, anything red—whether it’s fishing line or a hook—is going to disappear in more than 5-feet of water.”

Technically, both sides are right. Since learning that red hooks are, in fact, visible from less than 5-feet away in water of normal stain, Stone has noticed a substantial increase in his shallow water fishing success.

When to use red hooks

The use of red hooks is something that is becoming increasingly popular amongst the world’s top professional anglers. While not ideal in every situation, Stone has developed some very effective techniques for exposing bass’ weakness for red.

“Any time I’m flipping shallow water with a normal stain, I almost exclusively use a red hook,” Stone said. “If you’re struggling during a tough day on the water, don’t be afraid to tie on a red hook. It may take a bit to get used to, but I truly believe that you will catch more fish.”


The use of red hooks should not be limited to just flipping and pitching, however. Stone loves chunking shallow crankbaits, which has allowed him to experiment at length with red treble hooks. While effective, It’s not always as simple as throwing on some red trebles and going to town.

“If I’m throwing a squarebill that dives less than 5-feet deep, I always replace the front hook with a red treble hook,” Stone said. “I never put red hooks on the back because I want that big bass to attack the middle of the bait, giving me a great chance at getting a really solid hookup.”


Because bass can be triggered by a subtle flash of red like gills on a fish, red trailer hooks are outstanding on bladed baits, as well. When targeting sluggish shallow fish holding tight to cover, Stone uses red trailer hooks on his spinnerbaits and buzzbaits to give the bass a little extra “something” to hone in on.

Although he has had an enormous amount of success using red hooks, Stone believes that changing hook colors makes the biggest difference on bright, sunny days.

“The cloudier the day and the lower the light, the less that red is a factor,” Stone said. “For that light penetration to do what it’s supposed to do, you need to have a sunny day in order to get the maximum benefits from red hooks.”

The next time you are having a tough day on the water or getting a lot of short-strikes on a crankbait, switch to a red hook. While it may take some time to get confidence in it, you just might crack the code and enjoy some killer fishing. All it takes is one monster bass to make you a believer.

















































Carolina Rig Tips for Cold Water Bass | Part I

  
  
  
  
  
  
Options for Carolina Rigs

As the water continues to cool, these tips will help you catch more fish.

By Walker Smith

For many of our readers, fall is nothing but a distant memory. The trees have shed their foliage and the pleasant, cool nights have quickly turned to bone-chilling mornings with no hope of fishing. As the water temperatures continue to drop and the bass’ metabolism begins to slow, fishing can get downright tough this time of year. It happens to us, too, as we often refer to it as our yearly “depression”.

While many outdoorsmen tend to store their bass boats in favor of tree stands and rutting bucks this time of year, we have salvaged many poor fishing days with the “old faithful” of fishing techniques—the Carolina rig. Although the C-rig has been around for decades, it is one of the most overlooked and misunderstood weapons of the bass fishing world. In part one of this two-part series, we discuss the importance of using quality components with this time-tested technique.

Don’t go cheap

Although many of us choose to make fishing an expensive sport, it really doesn’t have to be. While there are certainly various techniques and presentations in which concessions in quality can be made if necessary, Carolina rigging is definitely not one of them.


Perhaps the most important part of the Carolina rig is the swivel. On that very piece of equipment, the total success of the rig hinges. Poor quality barrel swivels will easily get nicked and cut when dragging the C-rig through harsh terrain such as rocks, shell beds and pea gravel. When these low-end swivels get beat up, they will cut your line like a razorblade and bind, resulting in an improper presentation. To avoid this menacing problem and land more fish, using bigger stainless steel swivels will provide the backbone of your Carolina rig with increased durability and dependability. Although a little more expensive, upgrading swivels can cure some of the heartache from lost Carolina rig fish.

A quality tungsten weight is also essential to getting the most out of your Carolina rig. Many anglers are still unsure when it comes to the benefits of tungsten, but the difference in sensitivity between tungsten and lead is unreal. A tungsten weight on a Carolina rig is about as close as you can get to crawling on your hands and knees on the bottom of the lake. For the anglers who don’t have access to high-end electronics, a tungsten-weighted Carolina rig is all that’s necessary to dissect the bottom composition of your favorite spots. Although they are more expensive than traditional lead weights, the benefits are undeniable which them worth the extra money.  


Lastly, you can’t be cheap when it comes to the quality of the hook on a Carolina rig. During the hookset, there is a lot of slack between you and the fish, which makes a razor-sharp hook an absolute necessity. The good news is, hooks aren’t too expensive, and you won’t need a box full of an enormous assortment of hooks in order to increase your success. All that’s needed is 3/0, 4/0 or 5/0 Offset EWG worm hooks. While the versatility of the Carolina rig allows anglers the ability to experiment with several different presentations and pieces of terminal tackle.

Beads

While autumn is largely known for its beautiful colors, crisp mornings and explosive bass fishing, its weather is can be extremely volatile at times. Whether it’s cold fronts, rain storms or premature winter precipitation, fall can be a tricky time of year to consistently catch bass.

Often times, this unstable weather brings about muddy water in fisheries throughout many parts of the country. Although muddy water isn’t widely considered conducive to Carolina rigging, a few small modifications can make all of the difference in the world.


The bead on a Carolina rig is meant to perform two essential tasks—to make noise, while most importantly protecting the knot. If you were to throw a Carolina rig without a bead, the weight would slam against the knot, drastically reducing your knot strength, therefore increasing your chances of losing fish. While many anglers prefer smaller beads in order to offer a more natural presentation to the bass, we tend to prefer larger beads. Larger beads shield the entire knot, giving that crucial connection between your leader and main line a better chance at standing up to more abuse. These beads don’t need to be expensive, either— most of the time your local hobby store sells them for next-to-nothing.

An added benefit of using beads on a Carolina rig is their noise making ability. As you drag the rig across rough surfaces, the bead protects the knot while emitting an awesome “clicking” sound that emulates small prey to bass. It is important to note that different types of beads have different sounds. Although there is no specific science as to when bass prefer different types of clicking sounds, we are big proponents of constant experimentation. If you’re not getting bites with a plastic bead, sometimes a metal bead will do the trick. After experimenting long enough with it, you will be able to notice small nuances of your local fish that will allow for quick and efficient bead changes.

Throughout the late fall and early winter, we have had a lot of success using two beads on our Carolina rigs. As the water gets muddier from nasty fall storms, the visibility of bass is often cut in half. With limited visibility making it harder for bass to get a good bead on your bait, the extra noise of two beads will set your C-rig far apart from others. It would sound a lot better if we had the two beads strategically placed throughout to rig to imitate some sort of specific forage, but we don’t. Stack the two beads right on top of each other for more noise throughout your retrieve. Terry has won a lot of money throughout his life using this technique.

Weights

So we’ve already talked about the importance of tungsten on a Carolina rig, but what now? Truth be told, the shape of the weight doesn’t really make much difference to the bass. Instead, it makes our lives easier and increases our efficiency when throwing the double splash rig all day long.


One of our favorite ways to fish a Carolina rig thick cover looks pretty ridiculous. In fact, if you saw it, you would probably think we were crazy. Around gnarly, rock-covered areas, turning a traditional tungsten bullet weight upside-down—with the nose facing the bait—can drastically cut down on your amount of frustration throughout your day on the water.

When the bullet weight is positioned on the Carolina rig as it would look on a Texas rig, it makes your C-rig much more prone to hang-ups in rocky cover. It is important to remember that the weight is constantly making contact with the bottom, which will cause the nose of the bullet weight to frequently lodge into rocks. If you simply turn that weight the other way around, the wide mouth of weight’s base will kick up off the rock crevices rather than sliding in between them as easily. It doesn’t look pretty, but it can allow for a few less snags.

Unless you’re targeting fish in less than 6-feet of water this late fall, your Carolina rig needs to have a 1/2-ounce weight at the very minimum. The appeal of the Carolina rig is to allow for constant contact with the bottom, and lighter weights don’t allow for the proper presentation. A heavier, 1/2-ounce weight allows the angler to throw it a lot further and detect bites better.

If you’re fishing on a windy day, or are a newcomer to the Carolina rig, throwing a 1-ounce weight can do wonders. The heavy weight decreases the amount of “wind bow” in your line, allowing much more direct access to the business end of your rig. While some anglers will have extremely specific weights for certain water depths, we prefer to keep it simple. Remember—keep a 1/2-ounce tungsten weight on your rig, and if you aren’t feeling the bottom enough, simply upsize to a 1-ounce weight.

It’s no secret that Carolina rigs can be time consuming to re-tie after numerous hang-ups throughout the day, but using the correct components will help you better utilize your fishing time and catch more fish. Stay tuned for part-two of this series, as we discuss the application of different line types and leader lengths to further your success with the C-rig.



















































How to Use Sonar to Find Hard Bottoms

  
  
  
  
  
  
hard bottom road bed screen shot explained

A couple quick tweaks and knowing what you're seeing on your fish finder will yield better results

By Jason Sealock

We're making an effort to help folks get their money's worth on their fish finders. Knowing how to use sonar or side imaging can make you not only a more efficient angler but a more diverse angler. When you know how to use a fish finder to find not just hard bottoms but also forage and ultimately schools of fish you can spend your time honing your presentation and technique and less time searching aimlessly for bass, not know which lures and presentations will trigger a strike on that day.

Most anglers who fish from a boat have some sort of sonar, so we'll start there. On a typical sonar, the thicker the return on the bottom, the more dense the bottom is. Take a Lowrance HDS 10 for example. When you see a hard bottom like gravel, chunk rock or shell beds, that bottom will be thick and yellow. Whereas when you pass over a softer muddier bottom, the bottom will seem more translucent or darker red or blue.

If you're not seeing the contrasts like you think you should, you probably just need to adjust your sensitivity up or down. On my unit, I run my sensitivity up in the 70s, but I turn my noise rejection to low and my surface clarity to medium. For most of my use with sonar, I don't really ever try to see the fish in the top 1 or 2 feet of my water column. I'm looking for the right looking bottom with forage or fish nearby.

One of my favorite hard bottom characteristics to find is an flooded roadbed. Now often the road isn't well defined after years of erosion and soil placement on the road. But with your sonar setup to detect those contrasts in bottom, you can still see the hard bottom structure even if it has been silted over from floods and such. Usually the roadbed will be associated with some sort of rise on your screen as well and some of the best ones I've found even have chunk rip rap along them.


In the fall and again in the prespawn and post spawn periods, roadbeds can be bass and bait magnets. So I always like to find one if I'm looking for bass in an area. But a roadbed isn't the only hard bottom that can be good. Shell beds have gained popularity with offshore fishermen over the years, although I find it humorous how many folks think they found a shell bed just because their jig is dragging through some rough gravel or chunk rock. There is a distinguishable "grabbiness" to a bed of shells and you'll often pull them up either clamped on your line or snagged on a crankbait treble hook.

Some believe the bass are there for the shells. They are there for the clean hard bottom that attracts baitfish more readily. When current is pushed over them, it makes a buffet table for the bass.  

Finding a hard bottom might take time scanning. I often pass over hard bottoms while idling around in creeks and bays on a major reservoir. I will the expand my search outward looking for key spots on a hard bottom area. Maybe there is a small pile of rocks, or a creek channel swing or cover on one part of the hard bottom that will make it the key spot in the area. When I find one hard bottom area, I will split my screen on my Lowrance HDS Gen 2 and search with sonar, down and side scan screens. Often I can use the side scan to tell me at what angle the road winds and then use the sonar to see the sharpest edges along the road or other objects, like brush, culverts, foundations and more.

As you can see from these screen shots, hard bottoms will stand out on your fish finder once you know how to use sonar and side scan together. A few tweaks to sensitivity, noise rejection, and surface clutter can give you a good read of what's below. The shallower you are the more you will turn your sensitivity down on side and down scan. The deeper you are looking on your fish finder, the more sensitivity you must have.


Notice on this screen shot, we passed over a subtle roadbed. To the side of it was a small stake bed. The baitfish were positioned between the stake bed and the road. The fish however if you look closely were in the stake bed. We cranked a square bill over the top of the stakes and road a few times and as luck would have it, we caught a crappie. The more you make mental notes, then stop and fish what you see the more you will learn about
how to use sonar and side scanning technologies and put together better fish catches.





























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